Post by cherdarock on Jan 13, 2013 10:59:30 GMT -5
Had the lil woman wake me early so I could get some pics up. ;D
The photos are to show the various disk options.
Photo: the lap disks I am showing all come with a peel and stick backing. If you choose not to use it, leave the paper on. It is waterproof, so you can utilize the sticky later if you wish, used or not!
OK rocks on thin metal disks produce two things you don't want, FLEX AND NOISE! So backing plates are your best option. I have found wood to be the most inexpensive and easy to make. 1/4 in thick plywood, MASONITE, even 1/8th to 3/16ths flat oak veneer if you have that laying around. With this 1/4 " plywood, noise is acceptable, and there is no flex.( IF you get flex, you are putting too much pressure)
When you make your backer, the center hole is pretty important!
There are many circle jigs you can use to make both the disk and centers. If you have never cut circles, and are in the dark about making them, P.M. me and I can walk you through it.
This photo shows a backer plate with a large center hole. This is the setup IF your arbor does NOT give enough thread for the added thickness! If your arbor allows thick or thin, center hole remains 1/2" in the backer, and the backer plate will snug up to the shoulder. (If the backer hole is 1/2 in, I recommend masonite as your backing plate material.)
**NOTE** the center hole above is for illustrative purpose. If your arbor permits thin disks, you want to measure the diameter of the arbor shoulder. You want a center hole that will just barely clear the shoulder. TOO MUCH center hole, will allow some degree of flex. A tight fit over the shoulder prevents that.
**NOTE 2** coating and/or waterproofing the wood IS recommended. Using wood in a water sump subjects the wood to an excess of water. 3-4 coats of spray on MARINE varnish, or a couple dips in any quality water sealer. (If you have pre-waterbased Thompson's, break it out) A good coat of carnuba, or hard wax (car, floor) to complete it.
More photos coming. ALSO! Like NDK, If you have photos, or illustrative commentary, it really is perfectly fine to post. My main purpose is to give options and ability to people, mainly by way of inexpensive modification. The more info we collect and combine, the wider the spectrum becomes. I REALLY like when there is enough information that you can pick and choose, and develop better and/or specialized setups.
If you want photos of any instruction not illustrated, OR clarification, you can post or PM.
lol MY camera has GIGS of storage, so does my PC.
More to come...
The photos are to show the various disk options.
Photo: the lap disks I am showing all come with a peel and stick backing. If you choose not to use it, leave the paper on. It is waterproof, so you can utilize the sticky later if you wish, used or not!
OK rocks on thin metal disks produce two things you don't want, FLEX AND NOISE! So backing plates are your best option. I have found wood to be the most inexpensive and easy to make. 1/4 in thick plywood, MASONITE, even 1/8th to 3/16ths flat oak veneer if you have that laying around. With this 1/4 " plywood, noise is acceptable, and there is no flex.( IF you get flex, you are putting too much pressure)
When you make your backer, the center hole is pretty important!
There are many circle jigs you can use to make both the disk and centers. If you have never cut circles, and are in the dark about making them, P.M. me and I can walk you through it.
This photo shows a backer plate with a large center hole. This is the setup IF your arbor does NOT give enough thread for the added thickness! If your arbor allows thick or thin, center hole remains 1/2" in the backer, and the backer plate will snug up to the shoulder. (If the backer hole is 1/2 in, I recommend masonite as your backing plate material.)
**NOTE** the center hole above is for illustrative purpose. If your arbor permits thin disks, you want to measure the diameter of the arbor shoulder. You want a center hole that will just barely clear the shoulder. TOO MUCH center hole, will allow some degree of flex. A tight fit over the shoulder prevents that.
**NOTE 2** coating and/or waterproofing the wood IS recommended. Using wood in a water sump subjects the wood to an excess of water. 3-4 coats of spray on MARINE varnish, or a couple dips in any quality water sealer. (If you have pre-waterbased Thompson's, break it out) A good coat of carnuba, or hard wax (car, floor) to complete it.
More photos coming. ALSO! Like NDK, If you have photos, or illustrative commentary, it really is perfectly fine to post. My main purpose is to give options and ability to people, mainly by way of inexpensive modification. The more info we collect and combine, the wider the spectrum becomes. I REALLY like when there is enough information that you can pick and choose, and develop better and/or specialized setups.
If you want photos of any instruction not illustrated, OR clarification, you can post or PM.
lol MY camera has GIGS of storage, so does my PC.
More to come...