nickinmass
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2010
Posts: 18
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Post by nickinmass on Jul 8, 2014 10:24:50 GMT -5
I just bought a used Rock Rascal model T (to cut/shape preforms for tumbling and to make some freeform cabs) and it needs a new blade. I don't expect to be cutting super expensive materials, so I don't think I need a super thin kerf blade. Recommendations for a 6" trim blade?
Also, suggestions on coolant? The sump is not that big and I don't expect to be cutting huge amounts of material, so I'm not overly price sensitive (other than being a cheapskate at heart). The machine will be used indoors (in my mostly woodworking shop), so stinky oil would not be good, nor would something that mists/aerosolizes, but I'm wary of water-based coolants (the guy I bought it from, a member here, gave me new bearings, as the water had done a number on the bearing on the saw side of the arbor).
Thanks
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,622
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 8, 2014 10:50:21 GMT -5
IMO the Rock Rascal model T is a good preforming saw/grinder for tumbling. But if you use a water coolant with the Rock Rascal model T you do have to take the table top off and clean and dry the arbor and bearings after use each time or they will rust quickly. Since kerf thickness won't be an issue for trimming tumbling rough one of the inexpensive commercial tile saw blades may be your best value. As for lubricants, there will be some misting and spray with all of them. The mineral oil that Walmart sells in their pharmacy is a little thicker than some mineral oils and will not mist as bad as a thinner viscosity mineral oil. Baby oil will work too. Or if you find these to be too thick then a gallon of horse laxative mineral oil from a local farm supply like Tractor Supply should last you a while. Even though these oils are food grade it still isn't a good idea to breath the mist. I always wear a disposable dust mask when I use a trim saw. As for concerns of oil mist contaminating your woodworking projects you could make a 2x4 stand for your saw and mount some inexpensive Harbor Freight castors on the feet so you can roll your saw outside to use it and then roll it back inside when your done. Hope this helps. Larry C.
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nickinmass
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2010
Posts: 18
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Post by nickinmass on Jul 8, 2014 11:34:36 GMT -5
Thanks. Unfortunately, moving the saw outside is not really practical a good chunk of the year (I live just outside of Boston - cold/snow in the winter and thunder/rain storms the rest of the year) and part of the motivation was to have something that I didn't have to take outside (I've done some rough cutting and slabbing with an overarm tile saw - the hassle involved means I don't do it very often). Sounds like I should get used to the idea of some sort of mineral oil coolant for the saw and figure out how to capture/control the overspray (maybe a miniature version of the box fan/furnace filter I use for spray finishing).
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Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
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Post by Roger on Jul 8, 2014 11:52:55 GMT -5
I have used water exclusively with my Rascal. I simply oil everything each month when I fully clean it.
I use three blades depending on what I an cutting and how lazy I am. If you are cutting decent material, it is hard to go wrong with spending $35.00 on a good blade. JS Gems has a great selection of blades and prices.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 8, 2014 14:47:37 GMT -5
Thanks, Roger. If you fill the saw properly (just covering the cutting rim of the blade) you won't have too much spray or mess unless you try to cut something too large or otherwise raise the blade guard too high. If you want to use oil any light weight mineral oil will be fairly odorless and easy to clean up. As for blades, I would recommend a good quality blade like the BD303C and if you are a beginner the .032" thickness. If you will only trim slabs and maybe cut some pricey material the .020" would be good. If you think you will destroy blades learning to cut, then a Chinese blade fairly thick like a Green blade would be OK and fairly durable. The Rock Rascal has a 1/2" arbor.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,622
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 8, 2014 15:55:07 GMT -5
I have used water exclusively with my Rascal. I simply oil everything each month when I fully clean it. I use three blades depending on what I an cutting and how lazy I am. If you are cutting decent material, it is hard to go wrong with spending $35.00 on a good blade. JS Gems has a great selection of blades and prices. Roger, Are you using a model "J" or a model "T' Rock Rascal? Larry C.
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Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
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Post by Roger on Jul 8, 2014 22:03:17 GMT -5
I have used water exclusively with my Rascal. I simply oil everything each month when I fully clean it. I use three blades depending on what I an cutting and how lazy I am. If you are cutting decent material, it is hard to go wrong with spending $35.00 on a good blade. JS Gems has a great selection of blades and prices. Roger, Are you using a model "J" or a model "T' Rock Rascal? Larry C. I use a model T. Basically the "J" with the grinding wheel attached.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,622
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 8, 2014 22:45:18 GMT -5
Roger, Are you using a model "J" or a model "T' Rock Rascal? Larry C. I use a model T. Basically the "J" with the grinding wheel attached. The reason I asked is I've been using the same model "J" saw for over 30 years now and sometimes use Water with Raycool additive in it, which does okay as long as I don't leave the water sit in it. The model "J" has a water pump type bearing which withstands moisture better than the two insert type bearings the Model "T' uses. I also used to have a model "T" but the bearings in the Model "T" I had were too susceptible to water entering the seals of the bearings and rusting the bearings. After only getting a couple of uses out of a set of new bearings using water with Raycool before the bearings rusted up inside I went back to using my model "J". I wish someone made a small cast aluminum housed trim saw with the bearings outside the reservoir so they wouldn't be affected at all by using water. Larry C.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 9, 2014 12:10:59 GMT -5
NickinMass, I just sold my model T, but prior to that I used it alot. For quite awhile I ran oil in it because I didn't want to deal with rust or emptying the saw everyday (I only use it a little, but daily). Eventually I switch to a good water additive (Smokey's EZcut). 2oz per gallon of water makes a quart bottle last a long time, and during periods of none use it was easy to drain the saw, lift the top off to expedite drying and be done. It sounds like you don't want oil, and I thats why I would suggest you decide on a good water additive and go that way if it works for you. You are basicaly trying to reduce rust, and make your water a bit less volatile - lubrication seems academic but what do I know. Enjoy the saw. Any blade will work but John gave you some good suggestions and points to consider. Tom
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nickinmass
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2010
Posts: 18
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Post by nickinmass on Jul 11, 2014 14:55:01 GMT -5
Thanks - I think I'm going to suck it up and go with an oil coolant. Between work and 3 kids (and coaching their soccer, lacrosse and first lego league teams) I don't get a lot of hobby time. Even though it really isn't all that much work, I know the need to fill before and empty/dry/oil afterward will inhibit me from using it when I've got a little chunk of time to do something.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jul 12, 2014 13:07:29 GMT -5
I would like to see a good pic of the bearings for the unit. I wonder if a bearing house can supply a good sealed/shielded replacement bearing in the same dimensions.
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