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Post by rockpickerforever on Dec 7, 2014 0:22:43 GMT -5
Haha, that'll learn ya! I was this close to picking you up some more obsidian at the rock show today. A plastic bag full of some that had already been tumbled up until polishing stage. Shoulda seen the grin on my face whilst I was thinking that one over, lol.
Relax, I didn' t get it. I spent a grand total of $13 on slabs, including some half dollar size Botswana and other agate slabs for fifty cents each. Score!
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 7, 2014 8:34:26 GMT -5
Haha, that'll learn ya! I was this close to picking you up some more obsidian at the rock show today. A plastic bag full of some that had already been tumbled up until polishing stage. Shoulda seen the grin on my face whilst I was thinking that one over, lol. Relax, I didn' t get it. I spent a grand total of $13 on slabs, including some half dollar size Botswana and other agate slabs for fifty cents each. Score! if you see any with a perfect polish Jean. Wouldn't that be appropriate ? I have a truck full hat has been tumbled......up until polishing stage
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Post by captbob on Dec 7, 2014 9:12:59 GMT -5
I think the reason for the obsidian taking a long time in the vibe in 220 is because it has such a rough finish on it after the 46 in the rotary.Six days is a pretty short run! connrock I think that what connrock was getting at about going to 220 after a 6 day 46 run was that 6 days didn't really give the 46 time to break down to a much finer grit. Not that what I do is right, and not that there is a "right", but I run a grit until it has broken down beyond the next stage it is moving to. Meaning that if I am running 60/90, I run it long enough that it is finer than the 120/220 that I am going to next. It is actually a step back (towards coarser) when I change grits. Aside: I don't even recall if it was this thread you mentioned it. But, as tough as that Viking may be, it just doesn't sound like a good idea to be running 46 in it. That rubber liner may be thick & tough, but it will wear down eventually; and that 46 ain't doing it's life span any favors. I recall them replacement liners being kinda expensive. You are going to finish the obsidian aren't you?
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Post by rockpickerforever on Dec 7, 2014 9:27:09 GMT -5
Haha, that'll learn ya! I was this close to picking you up some obsidian at the rock show today. A plastic bag full of some that had already been tumbled up until polishing stage. Shoulda seen the grin on my face whilst I was thinking that one over, lol. Relax, I didn' t get it. I spent a grand total of $13 on slabs, including some half dollar size Botswana and other agate slabs for fifty cents each. Score! if you see any with a perfect polish Jean. Wouldn't that be appropriate ? I have a truck full hat has been tumbled......up until polishing stage Yes, that would be appropriate, since that seems to be where your problem lies. But how are you going to learn if you don't keep at it? The guy with the obsodian yesterday, he said what works for him is to NOT tumble it in rough stage, he starts at 220. Avoids all the early bruising. Plus, he doesn't lose so much to the grind.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 7, 2014 10:03:22 GMT -5
I think the reason for the obsidian taking a long time in the vibe in 220 is because it has such a rough finish on it after the 46 in the rotary.Six days is a pretty short run! connrock I think that what connrock was getting at about going to 220 after a 6 day 46 run was that 6 days didn't really give the 46 time to break down to a much finer grit. Not that what I do is right, and not that there is a "right", but I run a grit until it has broken down beyond the next stage it is moving to. Meaning that if I am running 60/90, I run it long enough that it is finer than the 120/220 that I am going to next. It is actually a step back (towards coarser) when I change grits. Aside: I don't even recall if it was this thread you mentioned it. But, as tough as that Viking may be, it just doesn't sound like a good idea to be running 46 in it. That rubber liner may be thick & tough, but it will wear down eventually; and that 46 ain't doing it's life span any favors. I recall them replacement liners being kinda expensive. You are going to finish the obsidian aren't you? The 25 pounds of obsidian that I ran looked like this piece from the past rotary runs: I was not happy with the polish or the scratches or the bruises so I took 7 pounds of this poorly polished obsidian and put it in the vibe at AO 220 twice. I took the remainder of this poorly polished 18 pounds and stuck it back in the rotary in AO 46 for 6 days, did a clean out, and have it spinning in AO 220 now. So 7 pounds in the vibe at AO 220 two times. Then 4 days in AO 500, and started AO 1000 yesterday. And 18 pounds in the rotary in AO 46 for 6 days. Now moved to AO 220 for a long run to remove the AO 46 scratches. The 7 pounds in the vibe still has bruises, the 2 runs of AO 220 did not remove the bruises. They are still visible after the 4 days in the AO 500. So, last ditch effort is to grind the crap out of the remaining 18 pounds in the rotary w/AO 46, and hope to remove the AO 46 scratches w/the AO 220. The bruises run deep into the rock. That is a fact. So basically I have started them all over from a poorly polished, bruised state.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 7, 2014 10:12:27 GMT -5
captbob- That Viking is rated for SiC 60/90. It is just a vibe, it will not round them like a rotary. According to the instructions anyway. Rough grind :
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 7, 2014 10:21:26 GMT -5
if you see any with a perfect polish Jean. Wouldn't that be appropriate ? I have a truck full hat has been tumbled......up until polishing stage Yes, that would be appropriate, since that seems to be where your problem lies. But how are you going to learn if you don't keep at it? The guy with the obsodian yesterday, he said what works for him is to NOT tumble it in rough stage, he starts at 220. Avoids all the early bruising. Plus, he doesn't lose so much to the grind. I see merit in using 220. Even the 220 rounds the obsidian. I think once you have bruised it, you done let the deal go down, like George Thorogood found out...
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 7, 2014 10:53:05 GMT -5
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Post by broseph82 on Dec 8, 2014 1:22:37 GMT -5
jamespMy father-in-law was wanting to get a vibrating paint mixer machine. How well would this work in theory for being a vibe type tumbler?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 8, 2014 6:30:21 GMT -5
jamespMy father-in-law was wanting to get a vibrating paint mixer machine. How well would this work in theory for being a vibe type tumbler? It would probably make Paint Rock talcum powder Jimi They are pretty violent. It is hard to tell the mild vibrations of a brass tumbler from the mild vibrations of a rock tumbler. But a brass tumbler will beat your rocks up badly.
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Post by broseph82 on Dec 16, 2014 14:52:10 GMT -5
Got another double barrel rot tumbler from HF to round up some slag and green bottle glass for my wife.
Barrel 1: green slag (medium to bigger pieces) 4Tsp 60/90 grit and 8oz water
Barrel 2: purple slag glass (smaller pieces) 4Tsp grit and 8oz water.
We shall see my friend.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 17, 2014 10:46:39 GMT -5
Got another double barrel rot tumbler from HF to round up some slag and green bottle glass for my wife. Barrel 1: green slag (medium to bigger pieces) 4Tsp 60/90 grit and 8oz water Barrel 2: purple slag glass (smaller pieces) 4Tsp grit and 8oz water. We shall see my friend. sea glass is rounded but has a frosted finish. they are quick and easy. The challenge is if you insist on getting a polish on them. maybe it will happen for you.
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Post by broseph82 on Dec 17, 2014 10:57:59 GMT -5
jamespShe fell in love with the sea glass we found up in Lake Eerie until she found out we can make it in our tumbler. The stuff we found was clear and shiny until we brought it home to "dry out" and frost. Ha ha. Hopefully my glass experiment will come out well and I won't have as many frustrations as you did. Btw, did you start your obsidian in a rotary or take them to the wheels to smooth out? I know the slag smooths out really quick on my wheels so depending on how long this takes I may change my protocol for anything else tumbled later on (jasper is taking way too damn long ha).
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Dec 17, 2014 11:35:55 GMT -5
If they needed shaping yes, if not, just let them roll. And it does shape fast compared to jasper/agate. I am getting to the point I pre-shape anything that has bad areas, dips, divots etc. Try to make all faces flat or curved outwardly. The agates take a while, glass rhyolite unakite obsidian is all fast. It takes time but saves a bunch on coarse grit and electricity. and the finished product is better.
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tkvancil
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Post by tkvancil on Dec 17, 2014 11:48:10 GMT -5
broseph82 You may already know this but I'll say anyway. Check those barrels of slag and glass often, like everyday. They can produce a good amount of gas. The bottoms will bulge outward if the material is gassing off and they will need to be burped. Started a 3# barrel of mixed slag and glass last Saturday and on Monday I had to burp it.
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Post by broseph82 on Dec 17, 2014 11:59:36 GMT -5
broseph82 You may already know this but I'll say anyway. Check those barrels of slag and glass often, like everyday. They can produce a good amount of gas. The bottoms will bulge outward if the material is gassing off and they will need to be burped. Started a 3# barrel of mixed slag and glass last Saturday and on Monday I had to burp it. And jamesp thanks to you both! Checking now Edit: no bulging no thick slurry. Grit still looked unused that I could see in one barrel. Couple pieces of glass were clear so I believe the green rubbed off (from the bottle).
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