rl
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2015
Posts: 6
|
Post by rl on Jan 25, 2015 21:25:40 GMT -5
I have a polisher with 5 grinding stations and one burnisher? polisher on the end, about 10 inches. The skin that is on it was apparently the original. I have a large sheet of pig skin that I want to put on the burnisher. I cut a piece larger than the disc and have been soaking it in water... tried to get it on the disc but seems impossible to get a flat piece the mold itself around the disc and get the wire ring in place to hold it on. Anyone have any ideas how this might be accomplished??? ! Read more: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/69293/old-lortone-12-inch?page=1&scrollTo=790551#ixzz3PtCTOkfw
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Jan 25, 2015 21:54:23 GMT -5
Hi RL, and welcome aboard.
Generally, leather polishing discs are elk hide, but I don't see why pig skin wouldn't work as long as you use it rough side out.
I know the type of disc you're talking about. I have a couple kicking around my shop somewhere. I don't think they make that type anymore. Is the retainer ring on yours like a big spring ? If so, as long as you can get your pig skin pushed over the side enough to get the ring on, you can just work your way around the disc and stretch the skin until it's fairly tight across the face of the disc. Re-wet the skin and let it dry before trimming the excess material off. While the skin is wet, you could also try gently tapping the ring into the groove around the disc.
Depending on how your pig skin was tanned, it may need to soak for a couple of days before trying to put it on. Also, if the pig skin is too thick, you may not be able to form it to the disc.
Hope that helps you.
|
|
rl
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2015
Posts: 6
|
Post by rl on Jan 25, 2015 22:30:43 GMT -5
Sounds like we ae talking about the same disc... elk, hmmm... as you suggest, the pig skin is fairly thick and that may be the problem.. the spring, if there was one is now a piece of wire... my better half suggested epoxying it on to the disc.. the pad is drawn and cracked, so I can't do too much harm with epoxy. You mention the rough side, I think that would be the underside as the skin side is pretty smooth. Now, how is this disc used? there is no drip valve. Do I wet the surface and hope that enough rouge or cerium oxide sticks to it to perform some polishing? or is there a better technique to using this leather disc? Appreciate your insight. Thanks, Bob
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Jan 25, 2015 23:00:20 GMT -5
Bob, I think the thick skin may be your problem. If it's too thick, it won't form itself over the edge of your disc. If you have a Tandy's Leather shop near you, check their scrap bin for a piece of thin cow or deer hide large enough to use. But don't use epoxy to attach it. Sooner or later the leather will wear out and need to be replaced. They make a product called feathering adhesive. It's in all of the lapidary catalogs. Or else go to your local hardware store and get a spray can of 3M spray adhesive. By using one of these, you'll be able to remove the leather without too much trouble.
Something I've used in place of leather is the felt type material that they line motor home basement cabinets with. Any RV supply or repair place should have it. It holds polish real good, and will put a mirror shine on cabs.
Your polishing disc doesn't need to be soaking wet. Just fill an old Windex bottle with water and give your disc a squirt or two. Just keep it damp. The easiest way to charge your disc with polish is to make a paste of polish and a little water. With a small paint brush, and the disc spinning, apply your polish from the center out. Once you've worked the polish into your disc, you'll only need to apply a little bit from time to time. The disc will absorb and hold the polish.
Don't use rouge. That's for polishing metal. Cerium oxide is the better choice.
Don
|
|