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Post by gingerkid on Apr 1, 2015 10:07:09 GMT -5
Thank you for updating your thread, NDK! Glad that you have your drains installed in the pans so they are ready to use when you get the tubing. What did you use to attach the nylon strap strips onto the hood?
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 1, 2015 10:19:50 GMT -5
Jan for the straps I used a piece of aluminum sheet metal I had laying around. Used nylon bolts to secure it to the hood.
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Post by gingerkid on Apr 1, 2015 10:27:25 GMT -5
Thanks, NDK, I see the bolts now. Is there any way you could create a vid of your machine running?
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 1, 2015 12:17:57 GMT -5
I think I can do that. Should be able to get to it this evening. Is there anything specific you'd like recorded?
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Post by gingerkid on Apr 1, 2015 17:33:31 GMT -5
Hi, NDK! Just wanna see yer wheels a rollin.' You could video yourself cabbing. J/K. But would love to see your machine in action.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 1, 2015 19:09:12 GMT -5
Well let's see if this works. I did a quick walk around then fired up the machine.
Home built cabbing machine:
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 1, 2015 19:13:21 GMT -5
Had a little set back too. Was connecting the tubing to the drains and the silicone peeled off from around the hose fitting. I wondered if it would adhere to the plastic - guess not. I'll have to find another way to seal them in...
Any suggestions?
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Apr 1, 2015 20:18:05 GMT -5
Hey I might have missed if you already answered this but what diameter is the shaft you used? I would think with that much hanging out of the bearings you would need a 1" diameter.
Chuck
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 1, 2015 20:59:02 GMT -5
Yup Chuck, it's a 1" shaft, 36" long. I believe it's 1045 bsq (bearing shaft quality). Cost me $20 & change from speedy metals. They're local so I only pay sales tax, no shipping charges. My brother-in-law is a millwright, so if I ever decide to drill the end for a polishing head, I'll disassemble it and have him do it.
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Post by gingerkid on Apr 1, 2015 21:33:53 GMT -5
Thanks Nate for posting a vid will have to watch it when logged onto laptop.
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Post by gingerkid on Apr 1, 2015 21:37:30 GMT -5
Nate, please check into bulkhead fitting. think that is what the cabmate has on its drain pan.
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Post by gingerkid on Apr 2, 2015 8:12:25 GMT -5
Just watched your cabbing machine vid, NDK. That's a very nice unit - looks and sounds great! Thank you!!
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Apr 2, 2015 10:13:42 GMT -5
Nate, I've been following your project. I love it when people realize how easy it is to make their own arbors. I see it's evolved mid-project. You learn. You adapt.
I noticed the locking collars on each end of the shaft. How do you put pressure on the assembly so it's tight before you secure the locking collars? Lynn
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 2, 2015 10:56:52 GMT -5
Clueless - I wanted to do a bulkhead type fitting, but where I drilled is a weird angle. If I can't get this sealed properly as is I'll try to find new jugs & put the drain in the side where it's flat.
Lynn, thanks for the inspiration! The collars I just pushed on tight by hand & tightened the set screw. I was worried it may not be enough pressure, but I haven't had any issue yet.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 3, 2015 21:45:59 GMT -5
Today I went to the local scrap yard for some stainless steel to make the holder for the water supply. It cost me $6. A little measuring, drilling, welding & poof - there it is lol.
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Post by tandl on Apr 7, 2015 18:51:19 GMT -5
That is a nice unit . Great job Man !
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 8, 2015 19:34:18 GMT -5
You might try epoxy on the drain fittings. JB Weld or any of the 5 minute types. I've repaired plastic deisel fuel tanks with JB so it should work.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Apr 8, 2015 19:44:30 GMT -5
Thanks Ted.
John, I did just that. Permatex Plastic Weld Epoxy did the trick.
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buck88
off to a rocking start
Member since April 2015
Posts: 1
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Post by buck88 on Apr 14, 2015 18:22:58 GMT -5
Hello all. I'm new to this blog. I am going to build my own cabbing machine also. I like all of the information that is posted but I have some questions. Are the expandable drums good to use? 6 inch or 8 inch? What is the best space between wheels. Do the wheels have set screws, what stops them from spinning on the shaft. What are the best grit sizes to get? I have a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm motor and a 36" 1/2" shaft. I am ready to order some wheels and any advice would be great. Thanks.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Apr 14, 2015 20:13:40 GMT -5
Hello all. I'm new to this blog. I am going to build my own cabbing machine also. I like all of the information that is posted but I have some questions. Are the expandable drums good to use? 6 inch or 8 inch? What is the best space between wheels. Do the wheels have set screws, what stops them from spinning on the shaft. What are the best grit sizes to get? I have a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm motor and a 36" 1/2" shaft. I am ready to order some wheels and any advice would be great. Thanks. Thats a bunch of questions. I would not even think about using a 1/2" shaft 36" long. 3/4" minimum and 1" preferred. The wheels are held by pressure from a nut and washer at the outside end that forces everything toward the center. Expandable drums are kind of old school with diamond wheels being what most are using now. The expandable drums do some things well but general cabbing is easier on a full set of diamond wheels. Spacing is best at least 1" between each wheel. Chuck
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