minerken
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Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on May 16, 2015 14:27:57 GMT -5
I know that there is at least one fabricator out there. I have a project in mind to make an X-Y vise for my 6" trim saw. My dilemma is that I need to join two pieces of 1/8" steel it's pretty soft stuff I think, bought at Ace hardware 1/8 X 3" strap and 1/8" square stock. I am not a welder but am trying to learn enough to stick 2 pieces of metal together. I have an old Lincoln arc welder that works good. I think that spot welds would be all that I need as there won't be much force applied but I would have to do several of them. I have seen 6013 in 1/6 and 5/64 but not sure that would be the right size and grade, what do you all think and what is the right amperage to use. I'm doing this for my own amazement so don't want to take it to a welder. All help would be appreciated.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on May 16, 2015 18:51:20 GMT -5
I use 1/8 rods. 6013 is fine. Welder set around 90 for a start. Try welding some junk iron together first. Read the instructions in the welding rod package. Not much to it. Practice, you will get it.
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Post by woodman on May 17, 2015 9:34:06 GMT -5
Store your rod in a warm place, will not work worth a darn if it absorbs moisture. I keep on top of hot water heater in house. Some build a hot box with light bulbs for heat, but I do not do enough welding for that.
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minerken
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Member since August 2013
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Post by minerken on May 17, 2015 14:49:30 GMT -5
Thanks I know I have to practice I tried some 6013 3/32 but I couldn't control the puddle until I got around 60 amps then I did so,so. the other thing that eludes me is seeing where the weld should go I have a self darkening helmet but for the life of me I can't follow a straight line.
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
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Post by jamesp on May 17, 2015 18:23:13 GMT -5
3/32 is a great size. Let the arc light your way. Dial your eyes into the brightness of the arc. 60-70 amps for 3/32 about right. Practice in a darker location, not out in bright sun light.
Lay beads down on a flat piece of steel. slow and fat beads, fast and skinny beads. Learn horizontal before vertical/upside down.
Use clean steel to start with-no paint, rust, etc. Clean it with your grinder.
I like 6011's, they conduct faster. Good for rusty and painted steel. They splatter more because they are more conductive and penetrate deep.
6013 makes pretty beads, but not a high penetration rod. Good enough for a strong weld though.
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Joe
spending too much on rocks
Member since July 2014
Posts: 274
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Post by Joe on May 24, 2015 17:43:05 GMT -5
I agree with James. 60-70 amps is about right for 3/32. For me easier its easier to control and wont blow any holes at a good speed in thin gauge steel. 6011 is great for your first pass to clear out any impurities to set ya up for 6013. Best of luck to ya on your new adventure and learning experience
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minerken
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Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on May 24, 2015 20:22:52 GMT -5
I haven't been practicing too much lately but Now I have a few things to try.I have been doing just the opposite of focusing on the hot part and have been looking at the edge of the bead. I haven't seen any 6011 here I only have a Napa and Ace Hardware but I didn't ask so I'll be looking for it. Keep the tips coming am actually on the way to the shop to do a little practicing I have a lot of rusty scraps so the bench and angle grinder are going to get a work out. Thanks Ken
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minerken
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Member since August 2013
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Post by minerken on May 25, 2015 11:27:05 GMT -5
well I spent acouple hrs last night practicing. All I can say is thanks one of the most frustrating was being able to see where I was going using what Jim said and by the end i was grinding a channel that I was able to fill. Now that that is understood I can concentrate on other things like how far I need to have the electrode from the material, I have noticed the closer the smaller the arc and vice versa is that the way to vary the bead size and is does it affect the bead strengh?
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Joe
spending too much on rocks
Member since July 2014
Posts: 274
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Post by Joe on May 25, 2015 12:15:18 GMT -5
Rule of thumb that ive been told is keep the arc the width of the rod away. You dont want to have it further away aka long arcing because is causes more heat. To close and it sticks. Definately watch your puddle. It will tell you whether you are tying into both pieces and whether your slag is trying to get in front of you causing pin holes. When welding a vertical piece to a flat piece angle the rod towards the vertical piece more than the flat. Gravity will always win and pull the molten metal down to tie into the flat stock. Cheers
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Joe
spending too much on rocks
Member since July 2014
Posts: 274
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Post by Joe on May 25, 2015 12:18:01 GMT -5
Another rule of thumb (code in iron working) is when you weave your weld dont weave more than 5×s the size of rod. 1/8 rod shouldnt be weaved to make more than a 5/8 wide bead.
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Post by johnjsgems on May 26, 2015 12:46:13 GMT -5
Gee, can you guys do the same for wire feed welders? I have same issue trying to see my welds while working. I have to weld in full bright sunlight and still wander off track.
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minerken
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Post by minerken on May 26, 2015 14:43:17 GMT -5
I don't know John, it seemed counterintuitive to me that by looking at the hottest part of the arc you could see where you are going. First I tried it by grinding a small chanell in the metal and then with a white chalk line I was amazed it worked like a dream. It took a couple passes to get my eyes adjusted to doing it. I can even freehand a straight line better and can control the rod better my beads are lightyears better but I'm still in the practice stage. Good luck
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Post by Rockoonz on May 26, 2015 20:47:48 GMT -5
johnjsgems do you wear reading glasses? Since I started wearing them I have trouble welding a straight line, I'll have to try the chalk line too.
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Post by johnjsgems on May 27, 2015 16:10:52 GMT -5
I wear the old man with vanity bifocals thinking if you can't see the line you might think I'm a teenager. Maybe I'll try with glasses off next time.
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minerken
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Member since August 2013
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Post by minerken on May 28, 2015 1:18:00 GMT -5
I'm sorry when I said chalk I meant welders soapstone, but hey chalk may work too.
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Deleted
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Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2015 8:11:28 GMT -5
You can get a lighter lens for your hood. Until I bought my auto darken hood I used a #9 lens for stick welding whereas most people use a #10 or 11 and some use a 12. With a 12 I couldn't even tell there was any welding going on.
If you practice a lot and get real good you will only look at where you are going because by then you will know what is going on behind without looking.
Better to stick than long arc. With a long arc there is a good chance oxygen will enter the mix and either leave porosity or weak metal. Here again practice. You want to hold as short an arc as possible especially if you are using 7018, 8018, 9018 and 11018 which is unlikely. 6011 and 6013 were always the go to rod for plinking. You will have way more strength than you need out of either one.
johnjsgems If you use the wire feed welder outside make sure you block any wind. We could not (supposed to not) weld with anything stronger than a 3 mph wind because you loose your shielding around the puddle which again causes porosity (big time with just gas) but a little better with flux core or combo flux core and gas.
Joe I am not sure exactly when it happened because there was a pretty wide gap between welding and welding again (many years) but when I went back to welding weaving was totally outlawed. I learned to weld when working on a power plant job and all vertical was weave but narrow like you said. All vertical is now stringer beads with stick and wire and if you are welding structural steel the lower limit on the amperage is smoking hot and really difficult to handle. I always ran mine a little cooler (even after I got caught) and I was the only one in the shop with seven welders that never failed an ex-ray. It is no longer an ex-ray, it is the same thing that they use to see unborn babies and I will remember it as soon as I post this.
Too tired to go back and read it over so if I sound like a smart azz I apologize for that. Just pooping out some knowledge. Jim
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on May 28, 2015 11:07:57 GMT -5
That's good knowledge you pooped Jim, the test you can't think of is "ultra-sound". With a replaceable lens hood, rather than an auto-shade, the gold colored lens filters often make for better visibility than the standard "green" ones. Take a little getting used to, but I like 'em. I have both, replaceable lens hood and an auto-shader, use depends on what I'm doing. Larry
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Post by Rockoonz on May 28, 2015 20:53:31 GMT -5
That's kind of what I figured, I have one of those.
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Joe
spending too much on rocks
Member since July 2014
Posts: 274
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Post by Joe on May 28, 2015 21:12:20 GMT -5
Great knowledge and thanks for that! I use alot of 6011 and 7018 but was never told about the oxygen getting in. Makes sense honestly! As for the weaving I never had experienced having to deal with inspectors on structural only on pipe just had a mentor mention it. Could be different back east unless it was around Wyoming or Utah? Good to know but must say that itd take a perty dang good welder with rod to run a straight stringer with high amps vertical/overhead. Thanks again though that knowledge will surely be remembered and used!
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