djaxon
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2015
Posts: 159
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Post by djaxon on Nov 1, 2015 19:15:05 GMT -5
Have practiced posting a photo (for the first time) and it worked. Here is the reason: I bought a new 8" 100 grit grinding wheel from Rio Grande. It's 1.5" wide and installation was easy. Put it and a new 200 grit wheel on my FranTom 10" combo. worked well for a few days then started using it again last night and notice that the wheel has what feels like a "rough" spot near the right edge. I stopped to inspect and found that parts of the side of the wheel are falling off. i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s605/don_jackson3/Grinding%20Problem/DSC00398_zpsoqpoii8h.jpg s1308.photobucket.com/user/don_jackson3/media/Grinding%20Problem/DSC00398_zpsoqpoii8h.jpg.html?o=1Please let me know if this is something to be expected, totally unusual, weird, or if I may have caused it. Any and all advice is appreciated. I am aware that the wheel is cupping and I will get better at that but the falling apart seems odd. I'm still new at this and learning much from this forum > thanks big time.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Nov 1, 2015 19:23:27 GMT -5
Have you been letting the wheel spin for a couple minutes with no water after each use? Bad things happen to SC wheels when left wet and all the water kind of goes to the bottom of the wheel causing an imbalance the next time you start it up.
Not to scare you too much but those wheels when not used properly have been known to self destruct and that can get really dangerous.
If you did not do anything to cause that then I would be contacting rio about it.
Chuck
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djaxon
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2015
Posts: 159
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Post by djaxon on Nov 1, 2015 19:54:29 GMT -5
Thanks : I do let it run for 15 - 30 minutes after every use. If the wheel get wet, it runs till dry.. That is what the gentleman who sold it to me said, and he was older than god, so I listened. ( I may be overdoing the drying stage, what do you think? - seriously) I do plan to contact Rio in the morning send pictures. hoping for the best. thanks again Chuck. Don PS > I assume that the photos are visible? dj
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unclesoska
freely admits to licking rocks
All those jade boulders tossed in search of gold!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 934
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Post by unclesoska on Nov 1, 2015 20:17:45 GMT -5
For only a few days use, that's a pretty profound groove in the center of the wheel. Are you sure the wheel is meant for lapidary use? Should say so on the label.
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djaxon
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2015
Posts: 159
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Post by djaxon on Nov 3, 2015 13:49:03 GMT -5
The 100 grit wheel is definitely made for lapidary. Made in Israel. I emailed Rio, explained the situation and offered to send photos. They responded within a few hours and are sending a replacement wheel. Good folks. Can anyone offer a suggestion about "how long" the wheel should run dry after use? Should it be completely dry? Thanks again - all - for your advice. dj
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Post by mohs on Nov 3, 2015 16:56:27 GMT -5
hey dj
that’s really strange
I have an old used wheel that as that sort of gouging /crack on the side. Always wondered how the person before me was capable of doing that?
Certain types of wheels use different binding compounds. That a big factor in determining what type of wheels for different operations. Perhaps the binding is to hard for rough grinding with rock?
Is it a black s/c wheel? Or green? Hard to tell in the pictures
But I'm sure that not the the problem. Especially if Rio sold it to ya knowing your doing lapidary work. Could be a manufacturing defect, I suppose.
As far as spinning a wheel dry. I don’t particularly do that and never had any problems. It’s a good practice -- but doesn’t necessarily need to be overdone. 5-10 second spin dry?
I sure your not over spinning the wheel- past its rpm speed- and doing Real light grinding & dressing.
Glad Rio is working with you. I like those folks.
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Post by mohs on Nov 3, 2015 17:04:01 GMT -5
as far as that spin dry thing I'm re-thinking it I live in hot dry environment suppose if a wheel froze (or gets seriously cold) moisture could crack a wheel just like a rock never really thought about it that way
good practice to spin out moisture....
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Nov 3, 2015 18:29:12 GMT -5
as far as that spin dry thing I'm re-thinking it I live in hot dry environment suppose if a wheel froze (or gets seriously cold) moisture could crack a wheel just like a rock never really thought about it that way good practice to spin out moisture.... I was always told the problem with not spinning the water out of the wheel was that when you restart it all the water would be in the bottom portion of the wheel which creates an imbalance in weight when you turn it back on. Just repeating what I was told though. Made sense when I heard it so I followed those instructions. Chuck
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Post by mohs on Nov 3, 2015 18:45:44 GMT -5
O I totally agree Chuck good machine shop practice especially with oil coolant spin dry
I’m just saying from my experience I’ve bought four or five green S/C wheels they last forever & done a lot of grinding rarely do I intentionally let it spin out
but certainly don’t do as I say I started with this rock’n heart idea & never did take it where I wanted it to go…
mostly
and really am interested in how that wheel cracked like that
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Post by mohs on Nov 3, 2015 19:04:55 GMT -5
Now you got me thinking Chuck I have the hardest time dressing/truing those S/C wheel I attribute that to the slow rpm speed which I’m sure is the major contributing factor
but now I wonder if I’ve let the wheel get a heavy spot or out balance from a water jam ? thanks ha ha old dog need to re-learn old tricks
a habit I’ve gotten away from was I’d mark a line on the wheel and a line on the arbor. When ever I’d re-mount the wheel I would align the two marks. That way the wheel always riding in the same spot on the arbor. That can make a big difference in balance.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 4, 2015 13:38:10 GMT -5
5-10 minutes should work after turning water off. My son always knocked chuncks like that out of my SC wheels. Also always held stone in wheel center like you did. You need to learn to move stone back and forth across the wheel. My dad had three SC wheels. A 100 and 220 and something that felt in between that had a perfect concave I assume he used for doming. He died before I developed an interest in lapidary so never could ask him.
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Post by DirtCleaner on Nov 6, 2015 20:06:27 GMT -5
You can post the photos on here from Photobucket. Copy the "Direct Link"l of your PB photo. Hit the "Reply" button, not the "Quick Reply" Look for the little photograph icon on the top row and that is where you place your pic link. Saves members from having to go to another site. Good luck on the wheel issue.
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djaxon
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2015
Posts: 159
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Post by djaxon on Nov 8, 2015 16:40:40 GMT -5
New, free, replacement wheel (100 G) came on Friday. I will replace the fractured one this week and see how it works. Rio was straight forward in replacing the bad wheel - quick and free !! thanks all for the advice.
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cabjunky
has rocks in the head
Regency Rose Plume
Member since November 2008
Posts: 683
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Post by cabjunky on Nov 20, 2015 14:46:32 GMT -5
I let mine spin for a few minutes after use with no water, and have never had a problem with them. I also use the silicon carbide wheels from Rio, and never had one do that. It was just a defective wheel from the looks of it.
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djaxon
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2015
Posts: 159
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Post by djaxon on Nov 20, 2015 16:23:40 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure that you are right. Defective wheel. It was replaced free of charge > GO RIO !
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 20, 2015 16:42:14 GMT -5
Unless Rio wants the old wheel back, save it. Those old wheels are great for dressing lapidary saw blades. When a blade quits cutting, just a quick cut or two through an old wheel will have that saw cutting again, unless the saw blade is worn out.
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Post by mohs on Nov 20, 2015 17:53:59 GMT -5
certainly that old wheel still as lots of use! unless it as a hairline crack then it would be a good dresser
otherwise it can sill be used as intended or used on a flat lap for rough lapping
I use S/C wheel horizontally on my Ameritool to rough grind heart flats that get epoxied.
mohs
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