jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 13, 2016 6:44:39 GMT -5
I have a hole wear out in the center of the end cap about every year or two on the closed ends of the 6 and 8 inch PVC barrels. I purchased a tube of high end silicon caulk, not water soluble type. The 30-50 year stuff about $9/tube. Heated the tube up by putting it in hot water to make it flow better. With barrel sitting vertical squeezed out 1/3 of the caulk into the closed end. Cut a paper plate to fit down in the barrel. Pushed it down to the bottom till it hit the caulk. Gently pushed on the paper plate till the caulk worked it's way to the edge of the barrel. Pretty sure it will stay. Have applied such caulk to the inside of a used and sanded from tumbling PVC barrel before and had it stick well. The barrel is only used for coarse grind so grit getting stuck in any pockets left is of no concern. Barrels that run 220 or finer never seem to wear out. And best to do such an application to a used barrel that has a tumbled finish for best adhesion. The paper plate will have a bad day. IntheswampTypical wear pattern on the PVC end cap, back lit:
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Intheswamp
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Post by Intheswamp on Feb 13, 2016 8:11:18 GMT -5
That'll work. I cut out a circle of thick rubber from a farm tire inner tube to fit snug inside the end cap...cut a small wedge out of the circle to allow the "dome". Smeared Shoe-Goo on the cap and the rubber and squished together, mashing out bubbles as I went. When I got through I had a soft, squishy bubble in the very middle of the circle. I couldn't press it to the side so I figured I'd have to live with it and see what happened. In an attempt to get the "bubble" to cure out I positioned the cap in front of a space heater and left it for a day and a night...not "cooking close" but "warming close". When I got back to it I was very pleased (and surprised) to see that the bubble had vanished and the rubber circle was smooth and tight against the cap. The gentle heat definitely cured and the Shoe-Goo/rubber/pvc!!! I'm like you, on these barrels I'm only running coarse so "phtt", who cares if some coarse grit is hiding in there somewhere. On my next 6" barrel I'm going to line it completely with inner tube. The smaller 4" barrel that I first did I lined completely and it is much quieter than the 6" barrel is, even considering the difference in diameter. I may try to retro-fit my current barrel with a rubber liner but having one end closed off makes doing so somewhat problematical.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 13, 2016 8:47:09 GMT -5
I never thought about cutting some big wide rubber bands out of an inner tube and stretching them over the outside of the barrel for grip. Could slide rubber hose down the shafts but wrapping the barrel may do just as well. May run quieter instead of steel to PVC. Did your barrel ever stop getting those ripples ?
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Intheswamp
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Post by Intheswamp on Feb 14, 2016 14:30:38 GMT -5
I've thought about that, too, James. What I'd like, though, is to start from the inside...might help protect this quartzite some.
For the outside the rubber bands wouldn't have to be very wide....just to cover the flat part of the cap and the bushing. And I'd wager that it'd quieten it down. I may just try it.
The barrel still has the ripples...they haven't disappeared but I don't think that they've worsened....the barrel still climbs the hill.
One thing that is happening is that I've got the rubber clean-cap rolling against that clothes-dryer roller...it sits at just the right position to catch the edge of the cap (right on the edge of the 4" pvc nipple). The rubber-on-rubber match-up seems to be working good but I can tell there is just a *tiny* smear of wear happening to the cap. I think I'm going to cut a ring of inner tube and glue around the perimeter of the cap...should last for years like that.
Btw, I was looking back through some old posts and realized I haven't filled those voids in the bushing with silicone...gotta do that before the next load goes in. Thanks again for that tip!
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Post by spiceman on Feb 14, 2016 15:58:58 GMT -5
That looks great. Some one gave a tumbler wth a red plastic barrel. After a while the Rocks wore holes in it( it had raised areas on the inside) I will make one out of PVC for a teplacement. You have a good idea. The only thing I will try different is to get a spray for truck bed liner and try that only because I don't want to worry about bubbles and it might be easier...maybe. Still a good idea. Good job
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 14, 2016 16:18:05 GMT -5
That looks great. Some one gave a tumbler wth a red plastic barrel. After a while the Rocks wore holes in it( it had raised areas on the inside) I will make one out of PVC for a teplacement. You have a good idea. The only thing I will try different is to get a spray for truck bed liner and try that only because I don't want to worry about bubbles and it might be easier...maybe. Still a good idea. Good job If you heat the bottom of the barrel by sitting it in say 160F water on the stove the silicone caulk will settle like a smooth pool after squirting it into the bottom of the barrel. Then there is little void space to catch grit. About anything you put inside of a tumbler can start to peel away causing issues with catching grit though. Best to have a perfect one piece barrel with a clean able cap. In my case I only use the rotary barrel for coarse grit. Then I move the rocks to a vibe for any other step. So I have no concern about grit polluting the load spiceman. I abuse my PVC barrels with big sharp rocks, 30 grit, metals. They are of 6 inch sch 40 PVC. Please do not use thin wall PVC like SDR 35. It wears out fast. Like 2 months.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Feb 14, 2016 16:31:13 GMT -5
I've thought about that, too, James. What I'd like, though, is to start from the inside...might help protect this quartzite some. For the outside the rubber bands wouldn't have to be very wide....just to cover the flat part of the cap and the bushing. And I'd wager that it'd quieten it down. I may just try it. The barrel still has the ripples...they haven't disappeared but I don't think that they've worsened....the barrel still climbs the hill. One thing that is happening is that I've got the rubber clean-cap rolling against that clothes-dryer roller...it sits at just the right position to catch the edge of the cap (right on the edge of the 4" pvc nipple). The rubber-on-rubber match-up seems to be working good but I can tell there is just a *tiny* smear of wear happening to the cap. I think I'm going to cut a ring of inner tube and glue around the perimeter of the cap...should last for years like that. Btw, I was looking back through some old posts and realized I haven't filled those voids in the bushing with silicone...gotta do that before the next load goes in. Thanks again for that tip! Thought about your access to inner tubes. Probably a lot of tumbler barrels that would benefit from an inner tube band. I know Firestone is a leader producer of EPDM(pond and roof liner). I thought inner tubes were made out of it too. Anyway, I buy a lot of pond liner and it smells and feels just like inner tube rubber. Tough stuff. Do fill those bushing gussets. It takes about a half of a tube of good silicon caulk. make sure you put the caulk tube in 140-160F water for 15-30 minutes so it will flow well. So it will fill the voids, start from one side of each gusset and work your way to the other so no air pockets will be left.
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Intheswamp
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Post by Intheswamp on Feb 14, 2016 16:47:52 GMT -5
I tinkered with some epdm a few years ago...some of the ag and industrial tubes are lots thicker. Most are either butyl or natural rubber...natural rubber being skidder and some industrial. I think the drag racing tubes are NR, too. I agree, that EPDM is tough stuff...back when Hurridane Opal came through it took down a large pecan tree in the yard. I was working on putting in a garden pond and had the liner laid in...the tree nailed the pond. There was about a 8"-10" limb jabbed down into the bottom and broken. I figured the liner was a gonner....nope, even though the limb broke when it hit the ground it didn't penetrate the liner! Deer...deer is what finally made me give up on the pond...they kept stepping off onto the plant shelf at the edge and punching holes in the liner....blasted deer!
Yep, gotta get some silicone and fill those voids. I hadn't thought about heating the silicone...makes sense. Gotcha on the side-to-side filling.
Btw, have you seen the new pvc membrane roofing? I had a building roofed with it a while back and saved a piece of roll of it. That is some tough stuff, too!!!! It would work good in the pipe part of a barrel but it is fairly rigid and wouldn't work in conforming to the shape of an end cap. It's kind of hard, too, so not much silencing benefit...but yet softer than pvc pipe. I'd say probably around 1/8" thick.
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herchenx
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Post by herchenx on Jul 1, 2016 14:21:30 GMT -5
I have a hole wear out in the center of the end cap about every year or two on the closed ends of the 6 and 8 inch PVC barrels. I purchased a tube of high end silicon caulk, not water soluble type. The 30-50 year stuff about $9/tube. Heated the tube up by putting it in hot water to make it flow better. With barrel sitting vertical squeezed out 1/3 of the caulk into the closed end. Cut a paper plate to fit down in the barrel. Pushed it down to the bottom till it hit the caulk. Gently pushed on the paper plate till the caulk worked it's way to the edge of the barrel. Pretty sure it will stay. Have applied such caulk to the inside of a used and sanded from tumbling PVC barrel before and had it stick well. The barrel is only used for coarse grind so grit getting stuck in any pockets left is of no concern. Barrels that run 220 or finer never seem to wear out. And best to do such an application to a used barrel that has a tumbled finish for best adhesion. The paper plate will have a bad day. IntheswampTypical wear pattern on the PVC end cap, back lit: jamesp how did this hold up? I have that mega barrel still hanging around and for various reasons haven't tried fixing the broken seam in the base (which is the barrel's only problem) - has the silicone held up?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jul 2, 2016 21:36:24 GMT -5
Silicon does not do so well herchenx. Wears rather fast. If you make pipe longer with about 10 inches between the fittings you can simply cut off the cap and glue another cap as they are cheap. 10 inches of pipe allows 3 caps. You loose 3 to 4 pounds capacity each time. Those caps last a long time.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2016 22:12:37 GMT -5
Silicon does not do so well herchenx. Wears rather fast. If you make pipe longer with about 10 inches between the fittings you can simply cut off the cap and glue another cap as they are cheap. 10 inches of pipe allows 3 caps. You loose 3 to 4 pounds capacity each time. Those caps last a long time. How about casting resin? Fill the cap and little trap groove with casting epoxy. When hard should be same as vinyl but thicker and refillable
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jul 3, 2016 9:11:15 GMT -5
Silicon does not do so well herchenx. Wears rather fast. If you make pipe longer with about 10 inches between the fittings you can simply cut off the cap and glue another cap as they are cheap. 10 inches of pipe allows 3 caps. You loose 3 to 4 pounds capacity each time. Those caps last a long time. How about casting resin? Fill the cap and little trap groove with casting epoxy. When hard should be same as vinyl but thicker and refillable Sounds like a plan. Me resorted to cutting cap off and replacing. Lasts about 2 years. Long time. Coatings bad catching grit. No such problem with new cap. If just coarse grinding then no problem.
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herchenx
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Post by herchenx on Jul 5, 2016 14:38:46 GMT -5
Silicon does not do so well herchenx. Wears rather fast. If you make pipe longer with about 10 inches between the fittings you can simply cut off the cap and glue another cap as they are cheap. 10 inches of pipe allows 3 caps. You loose 3 to 4 pounds capacity each time. Those caps last a long time. How about casting resin? Fill the cap and little trap groove with casting epoxy. When hard should be same as vinyl but thicker and refillable I like the idea of casting resin, or something similar. I've never repaired the big tumbler, the seam is still split and I would still love to get it back in operation.
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Post by oregon on Jul 8, 2016 12:51:56 GMT -5
anyone ever tried lining the outside (or inside) with one of the fernco couplers (less the hose clamps of course)? Should quiet things down. Been trying to figure how I could put a few "collars" on a 5 or 6" piece of pipe just taller than the hose clamp. So you could have a rubber cap on either end without the reducer. A collar to roll on, and one of these in the middle. (ie rubber cap, rolling collar, rubber coupler above, rolling collar, rubber cap) Rubber caps shouldn't wear as fast as the hard PVC, and it should be quieter if it was almost all fernco covered...
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jul 8, 2016 18:08:35 GMT -5
The caps do wear oregon. About the same life as the pipe. Since I have been running clay for a slurry thickener the pvc is much quieter. Fernco coupling liner would sure quiet it down, Fernco makes couplings for all kinds of pipe like clay and cast iron. ID of sch 40 is 6 inches exactly I believe, maybe one of those odd couplings is 6 inches OD.
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