Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2016 16:52:47 GMT -5
Haha, thats thinking outside the blocks! 3 = 2!! Love that. Im in home depot now waiting for my boss. I'll go be hands on in a little bit!
I freaking love this project Larry!
I see the clever corner you made for the belt removal. Is there a similar corner by the pivot end.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 13, 2016 23:12:36 GMT -5
Don't need a gap on the other end, if I have to replace the belt I can loosen the adjacent pillow block and lift it enough to slip the belt under it. It's good having someone to think with, always figured any given project comes out better when more than one person can be in on it, different perspectives sifted down to good result.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2016 8:51:39 GMT -5
Aha, i misunderstood the clever corner there. Now i understand. Geometry is grand.
More minds bring different experience and knowledge. I guess I helped with parts dip. Lol
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2016 8:53:36 GMT -5
Don't need a gap on the other end, if I have to replace the belt I can loosen the adjacent pillow block and lift it enough to slip the belt under it. It's good having someone to think with, always figured any given project comes out better when more than one person can be in on it, different perspectives sifted down to good result. So, that said, does my thought of an H where the cross bar is under the hopper rather that on the end make sense? To change belt you simply pull the shaft? No crossmember to dissassemble?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2016 9:13:30 GMT -5
From wikipedia
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 14, 2016 11:35:58 GMT -5
The disadvantage of eliminating the cross bar on the spring end is that there is then no place to put the "control rod". I find this to be a very big player in the amplitude control of the machine, working with it can change the function in the hopper from mild to wild. Would rather not have to deal with two rods of this type, one on each corner. No need to pull entire shaft, just loosen one side, self-aligning feature of pillow block bearings allows for enough lift to get belt out under the pillow block. I don't spend a lot of time worrying about changing belts as it is a very infrequent requirement. You are getting real scientific with the wiki article, is informative, thanks. I came up with this thing by sticking my head in an imaginary barrel and paid attention to what had to happen and how it worked, thoughts very similar to wiki article. The only thing I looked into was working frequency parameters. Not only did you parts dip the clamps, you put blocks on a shelf; it all counts.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2016 19:29:22 GMT -5
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 17, 2016 23:30:35 GMT -5
I think unistrut is good stuff, good strength and light weight. One point I see, unless you plan to go thru the back of the channel and washer across the open side, you will not be able to put larger than a 1/4" bolt in it, and won't be able to get a wrench or socket on it, unless you plan to use socket head bolts; P7000 has a 7/16" opening, and a 1/4" bolt is 7/16 across the flats. My pillow blocks run 1 3/16"-1 3/8" wide on the base, 13/16" width pretty narrow in my opinion. I looked the mtl. up, A3300 is 1 1/4" wide and has a 13/16" opening on the channel side, my opinion, a much better choice. Why not use the unistrut for the whole frame? Easy way to strip the zinc off: mix molasses with 6-8 parts water, soak it for a couple weeks, unless you want only weld areas stripped. Were it I, make the thing up and get it working before spending the money on powder coat, you may find structural modifications necessary. That's why I built on the cheap for the first one. I think purple would be great!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2016 9:04:17 GMT -5
Q:Why not entire frame?
A: Was thinking not strong enough. Corner pieces and all fittings adding costs.
Q: why not larger strut?
A: No bolts inside channel. Spring/nut below pillow blocks and pipe clamps. All socket wrenches fit...
Yes, build and rebuild until finished, then powder coat.
Easier galvanize strip is pool acid. Takes about 30 seconds. Strip and neutralize in a baking soda bath.
I think my "hard part" is the drive. Motor, vbelt, pulleys. Never built with these yet. Need challenge...
Job slow, time to tinker....
6" PVC pipe 'T' for the chamber.... Cap the ends, sort out the top... If I get it working, then a 4" and an 8" T could be made. Swapping out, super easy.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 18, 2016 11:25:46 GMT -5
I had envisioned you welding the frame up rather than bolting together. To me, 19 gage steel [.042" thick] is pretty thin to make a frame out of, way too thin to weld with standard home methods. Nothing like giving it a go to see if it works, that's how progress happens. Thanks for tip on pool acid, pools pretty rare here, know nothing about stuff used in them. PVC parts larger than 4" are quite a distance drive to obtain here, and then often have to be ordered, that's why I don't use them. Like your "T" idea. Drive is the easy part.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2016 11:55:07 GMT -5
I had envisioned you welding the frame up rather than bolting together. To me, 19 gage steel [.042" thick] is pretty thin to make a frame out of, way too thin to weld with standard home methods. Nothing like giving it a go to see if it works, that's how progress happens. Thanks for tip on pool acid, pools pretty rare here, know nothing about stuff used in them. PVC parts larger than 4" are quite a distance drive to obtain here, and then often have to be ordered, that's why I don't use them. Like your "T" idea. Drive is the easy part. My MIG will weld .125! I had thought to weld the strut to some 1" x 3/16" square tube for a strong chassis. Drive will be a learning experience. Maybe an easy one. Scary so far! Haven't solved the rubber parts yet. Maybe core drill a used off-road tire.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2016 13:36:26 GMT -5
Just reread. Pillow blocks wider than I thought. Need to buy pillow blocks and shaft first, then pulleys and motor. Then I can sort out strut and the rest.
Using 3/4" shaft?
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 18, 2016 14:03:56 GMT -5
Now I see how you're going about the frame, good idea. Thought you were going to use strut mtl. for side rails, not in addition to. Best way to build something new, gather all the pieces, then figure how to put it all together. My shaft is 1/2", see no deflection in it. 5/8" would be ample, 3/4" way overkill. I think the rubber from a tire might be too hard and unforgiving to use, do you know anyone in the infrastructure installation industry? I cut pieces from the rubber o-ring gasket from the bell end of a piece of 12" PVC pipe for my biscuits. Maybe someone you know could come up with something like that, it's much softer and gives me a bit of additional tuning ability.
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Post by oregon on Apr 19, 2016 17:22:17 GMT -5
I'll be making end caps, couldn't imagine cost of 10" ones, easy to do. Just re browsing... Is there a cheaper way to seal the ends on large PVC? , or how do you plan on rolling your own? Local surplus has plenty of large PVC fittings, but purchasing suitable endcaps for barrels etc adds up quickly. Thanks
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 19, 2016 23:18:57 GMT -5
oregon, this is the bottom of one of my 5 gallon barrels. I've built over 20 barrels of this style and in various sizes, none have failed. If there is an interest, I will put up a detailed construction procedure.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 19, 2016 23:34:57 GMT -5
The homemader works pretty good on slag glass too. This stuff and I have had an adversarial relationship off and on for over a year now, we [especially my wife] wanted it polished and the glass didn't want to polish. Tried all kinds of things in a rotary, got close but no cigar. Finally got it, even a trial of patience in the vibe. As jamesp noted some time back, different colors of glass polish differently, the goal now is to get a really good shine on all of it. This is most of the batch I pulled this evening. The overall goal, and major reason for building a bigger vibe is that this is the smalls out of about 30 lbs. we bought from friends, want it all polished. D cell battery for size reference.
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Post by oregon on Apr 19, 2016 23:38:31 GMT -5
no need on my account, looks like careful drilling & cutting, with a rubber seal in between? hmm, might have to pick up a couple sections... Thanks.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 19, 2016 23:57:51 GMT -5
I face barrel ends and turn caps on my lathe. End covers should be 1/2" thick [minimum] on anything bigger than 6" barrel. I make 'em out of any plastic I can come up with, replaced cutting boards out of stores work well. One thing I forgot to ask, what/where is that surplus place you mentioned?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Apr 20, 2016 3:57:49 GMT -5
Ho ho, checking out that glass. Test of tests. Congrats Larry.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2016 11:18:23 GMT -5
Where is Waldo?
I see no battery.
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