nvkermit1512
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2014
Posts: 143
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Post by nvkermit1512 on Dec 11, 2016 21:41:57 GMT -5
Howdy all, what would yall suggest as a decent cabbing machine? (model number and maker) I am looking at adding one to my arsenal of tools but figured I would ask the pro's here for advice on what machines to look into and perhaps some to stay away from. Hoping for it to be in the under $500 bracket. Thanks for any tips
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nvkermit1512
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2014
Posts: 143
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Post by nvkermit1512 on Dec 11, 2016 23:32:56 GMT -5
After seeing on here the self built cab machines I think I will rephrase my question, What set of wheels are more recommended? 6" or 8" ---pros and cons of each verses price?
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Post by Rockoonz on Dec 11, 2016 23:39:53 GMT -5
Brand new plug and play for under $500.00 is not too likely. You could get a Lortone 4 wheel unit from Kingsley North with no motor or wheels. Maybe if you can make it to Quartzsite during PowWow weekend you could find a decent used unit for your price. Watch Craigs list too for a radius as far as you're willing to drive. If you think you can make cabs ok with a flat lap Kingsley has a couple options that will fit your price range and the replacement laps are inexpensive compared to wheels. I know someone who makes competition quality cabs on a flat lap, but the shapes you can make are limited. Flat laps. www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/products.php?catID=1068
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nvkermit1512
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2014
Posts: 143
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Post by nvkermit1512 on Dec 12, 2016 0:01:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. After looking at several of the prebuilt systems I figured my best bet will be to build the machine myself but am now trying to see what would be the best wheels to plan my build around. There are so many different style of wheels ( ie. soft, hard, expanding, solid, 6", 8") , so now I am asking what wheels would work best. Thanks for the advice
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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 12, 2016 8:57:40 GMT -5
There are machines that run belts and there are wheels. If I were going to build my own, I might go with 8". 6" has been serving me fine, though. 8" allows you to make a bigger cab. Generally the first 2 shaping wheels are hard, followed by the "soft" wheels for prepolish and polish. I would stick with the Diamond Pacific. They cost more, but they are the best.
edit- I'm not sure how much you would save by making your own. You might just want to try to find a used unit or even save for a Genie or similar.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Dec 12, 2016 11:19:03 GMT -5
Another consideration is that 6" wheels allow for a more concave edge on the cab if you want to make those. The spacing of the wheels is very important - for your knuckles, and for the size cab you can make. 6" wheels are also less expensive than 8" wheels when they need replacing.
I use 6" and it's fine.
It is common to use diamond wheels for the first two stages, and soft or expanding wheels for the rest. I have found Cabking wheels to work just fine, and (and I may be wrong here) somewhat cheaper than Genie wheels. I agree with Tela, a used 6" or 8" CabKing, Genie, etc. is probably a good way to go. If you build your own, make sure you have enough arbors - trying to make do with less than 6 wheels leads to some frustration from folks on here.
Another option would be a flat lap, like the 8" Ameritool, which you can get new for much closer to your price range, and you can definitely make beautiful cabs with it, but you'll end up wanting a wheel unit eventually anyway.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,438
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Post by NDK on Dec 12, 2016 11:58:50 GMT -5
If you're handy, building your own machine to YOUR specifications is your best bet IMHO. The major outlay is the cost of the wheels. Although I've never used any other for comparison, I used Kingsley North wheels on mine and am happy with them.
Good luck!
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
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Post by Tommy on Dec 12, 2016 12:27:39 GMT -5
I use exclusively Nova wheels and my *opinion* is the cost different between the 6" and the 8" just isn't worth it - plus I have bad luck with the 8" delaminating in the middle. Nobody else seems to have this problem so it must just be me being heavy handed. Anyway, the 8" wheels delaminate and the 6" don't and are $50 less so I put up with the smaller width. Regarding machines - it has been said already but watch Craigslist. I see wheel units all the time for $500 and less. Most are the awkward outside pulley design which are a PITA to take apart and change wheels. I'm sure someone will disagree with me because they are set in their ways but trust me - if you have a chance to buy or build a center pulley setup do it and you won't regret it. Also - if you're on Facebook I see machines come up all the time on the Lapidary Equipment Marketplace. Bluesky78987 good to see you posting
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 12, 2016 13:33:20 GMT -5
If you have Novas delamintaing cal Diamond Pacific and ak about returning for inspection/replacement. They are very good about that. Interestingly I sell to a club that heats the water to their arbors and have had 7 or 8 8" Novas come unglued. Everyone was replaced no charge. DP said they changed to a more environmentally friendly glue and had problems with that for a while. Sorry to hijack the thread but it may help others too. As far as wheeled machines for $500 you definitely are talking used. Even at that for a really high quality older cab unit you will pay $300-$500 and still face replacing SC wheels with diamond.
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
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Post by Tommy on Dec 12, 2016 13:52:25 GMT -5
If you have Novas delamintaing cal Diamond Pacific and ak about returning for inspection/replacement. They are very good about that. Interestingly I sell to a club that heats the water to their arbors and have had 7 or 8 8" Novas come unglued. Everyone was replaced no charge. DP said they changed to a more environmentally friendly glue and had problems with that for a while. Sorry to hijack the thread but it may help others too. Thanks for the info John - the last five 8" wheels I bought between 140 and 1200 grit failed very early with delamination in the middle. This occurred mostly in 2015. I figured it was something I was doing wrong since I seemed to be the only one having problems with it. I switched over to 6" about a year ago and haven't had any problems since. Right now I'm running (4) sixes on the left and (3) older eights on the right, one of which (14k) is delaminating.
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nvkermit1512
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2014
Posts: 143
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Post by nvkermit1512 on Dec 13, 2016 1:28:00 GMT -5
Thank you everyone for replying. I will most likely build my own set up (unless a super deal on a good used one falls in my lap, lol). It seems to me the most important part is the wheels and that is where I will put the most money. Building the holder, trays, and mounts won't be much of a bother and I enjoy building as much as I enjoy creating. I'm thinking along the lines of a 1" OD shaft 36" L with the pulley for the belt/motor centered with 4 pillow block solid mounted bearings ( 1 for each end and 1 on each side of pulley) , 3 or 4 wheels each side. I usually overbuild stuff but I know it will last a long time. When it comes time to replace a wheel it will just be a matter of loosening the set screws and the whole shaft should slide out. Even with me living in the desert I believe I will still go with stainless steel on the shaft just in case. The mounts will be outside the wet areas so they should be safe. I've already made in the past a flat lap machine so I won't need any additions to the ends. Each wheel will have a water line with individual controls. I will be looking up each of yalls suggestions on the wheels, thank you all for the support.
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nvkermit1512
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2014
Posts: 143
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Post by nvkermit1512 on Dec 13, 2016 1:45:11 GMT -5
I use exclusively Nova wheels and my *opinion* is the cost different between the 6" and the 8" just isn't worth it - plus I have bad luck with the 8" delaminating in the middle. Nobody else seems to have this problem so it must just be me being heavy handed. Anyway, the 8" wheels delaminate and the 6" don't and are $50 less so I put up with the smaller width. Regarding machines - it has been said already but watch Craigslist. I see wheel units all the time for $500 and less. Most are the awkward outside pulley design which are a PITA to take apart and change wheels. I'm sure someone will disagree with me because they are set in their ways but trust me - if you have a chance to buy or build a center pulley setup do it and you won't regret it. Also - if you're on Facebook I see machines come up all the time on the Lapidary Equipment Marketplace. Bluesky78987 good to see you posting Just checked out your link to FB and asked to join, your right, they do have lots of items for sale, yippee, lol
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
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Post by Tommy on Dec 13, 2016 1:48:49 GMT -5
I'm thinking along the lines of a 1" OD shaft 36" L with the pulley for the belt/motor centered with 4 pillow block solid mounted bearings ( 1 for each end and 1 on each side of pulley) When it comes time to replace a wheel it will just be a matter of loosening the set screws and the whole shaft should slide out. From experience I offer this advice then I'll shut up about it. Skip the end bearings- you don't need them. It seems as easy as loosening set screws and moving the shaft but it's never that easy after water and wear have done their business. Why do it if you don't have to? I have a home built unit - 1" shaft 36" long with centered pully and two bearing blocks approx. 8" apart - and it purrs like a kitten.
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nvkermit1512
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2014
Posts: 143
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Post by nvkermit1512 on Dec 13, 2016 2:04:06 GMT -5
I'm thinking along the lines of a 1" OD shaft 36" L with the pulley for the belt/motor centered with 4 pillow block solid mounted bearings ( 1 for each end and 1 on each side of pulley) When it comes time to replace a wheel it will just be a matter of loosening the set screws and the whole shaft should slide out. From experience I offer this advice then I'll shut up about it. Skip the end bearings- you don't need them. It seems as easy as loosening set screws and moving the shaft but it's never that easy after water and wear have done their business. Why do it if you don't have to? I have a home built unit - 1" shaft 36" long with centered pully and two bearing blocks approx. 8" apart - and it purrs like a kitten. Lol, no need to "shut up about it", do you happen to have a pic of your build? The more visuals I have the better I build. I originally thought of doing 2 but saw some people had wobble and figured I would err on the side of caution
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,594
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Post by Tommy on Dec 13, 2016 2:15:03 GMT -5
Lol, no need to "shut up about it", do you happen to have a pic of your build? The more visuals I have the better I build. I originally thought of doing 2 but saw some people had wobble and figured I would err on the side of caution LOL shut up in the sense that I can be pretty annoying when I feel strongly about something. My very first unit was a saw combo with outside bearing blocks and I can honestly say - as many wheels as I've had to change, if I were still dealing with that design I would have quit haha. I'll try to post a picture or two tomorrow.
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cccbock
spending too much on rocks
Member since December 2011
Posts: 497
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Post by cccbock on Dec 13, 2016 2:19:52 GMT -5
Build your own....My total wheels motor and all was around 700 dollars....about 350 of that was wheels....6 all diamond....
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