spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 19, 2006 2:20:43 GMT -5
Hi sorry if this is a stupid question but I have a craftsman 10" table saw that I would like to convert to a wet saw. There is plenty of room under the table for a res, but I need to be able to run the drive shaft through some sort of bulkhead that will still allow the blade to turn in the water, while keeping the motor dry. Does anyone have any suggestions? It would be nice to cut slabs but I don't have a grand laying around for a slab saw. If there's no way to bulkhead the drive shaft does anyone know how to build a mud saw ? Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
|
Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Jan 19, 2006 5:27:54 GMT -5
Hi, Why not run the water on to the blade /rock at the sawing point This will reduce you getting drownded !!!!! there is some good info and threads on this on this site
My saw is in a oil bath and I realy get drownded Before you do any thing look up " workshop" in photo section and read others remarks.
Have a good day Jack Yorkshire uk
|
|
spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 19, 2006 6:23:04 GMT -5
Thanks Jack! how fast would the water need to run, a constant drizle, drip? I have seen a couple of people's IV set up's hanging but no real details. But with that I guess a splash guard would be about all that would be needed to keep the motor dry.
Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
|
Post by parfive on Jan 20, 2006 0:55:00 GMT -5
Spliff - Sounds like a direct drive saw. How about a piece of rubber membrane over the shaft, between the blade and the motor. Glued to the underside of the table, hanging down kinda like a shower curtain, with some weight on the bottom of it. Or fasten the bottom to a piece of 1x bracing installed across the motor housing front to back.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by stoner on Jan 20, 2006 1:23:44 GMT -5
Even if you could keep the water out of the motor, there is a major problem in converting a table saw, unless it is one of the newer portable models. Cast iron+water=rust. If it's got an aluminum table top, then it's ok. The big plus side would be you could actually get some use out of the blade guard. Usually that's the first thing to go if you're using it for wood. You could drill a hole for your drip hose thru the guard right above the blade.
If this doesn't work for you, I can send you some pics of my homemade 10" saw. I made it using materials available at Home Depot. The only thing I bought from a lapidary shop was the arbor because it has sealed bearings and the correct size flanges. If you had to buy the motor, arbor, blade, pulleys and belt, and the 1/2" plexi to build the saw, I think you could build one for less than $250. I already had everything except the arbor, so mine cost less than $50 to build.
Ed
|
|
spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 20, 2006 2:58:22 GMT -5
ParFive, Thanks that's a great idea, I was trying to over complicate that. Mostly because I don't know much about how these tools function. I have worked with wood, metal and even a little glass but no rocks and the only minerals I have encountered are already powdered for use in gardening. I just know that with a little help I can make something that will cut these rocks to expose their hidden beauty. A little extra cash would go great too. Stoner, Thank you for responding, I had not thought about the saw rusting, that would not be cool, maybe it would be better to use a completely different design. I would love pics of your saw, that would be a great help in trying to design something I only have a very basic knowlege of it's functions. a list of supply's would be awsome too, I'm running into the problem of I don't know what to call something yet I need to find out more about it . I was also trying to find info on "Mud Saw's" but after I found a different name "Wire Saw" or "Diamond Wire Saw" a whole new world of information came up. Has anyone ever worked with one of these and know how well they work? Seems easy enough to make with minimal investment. Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
|
Post by deb193 on Jan 20, 2006 3:10:43 GMT -5
I think the most common example of wire saw is the Tarus II Ring Saw. I looked at this before deciding to get the Gryphon C-40 band saw. Some folks on Bob's Rock Board told me that the wires broke more often than the band saw blades, but that they were a lot cheaper.
What sent me to the band saw was the very rugged "fusers" blade available for the C-40. After all these are mostly used by glass cutters and I was worried it would not cut my agate and jasper very well.
Anyway I ended up with the Inland Band Saw. It is cheaper than the C-40, and the manufacturer directly discusses lapidary (agate, jasper, geodes ...) on their site. I just felt that it would be more suited.
I can't wait for it to arrive, and I will post reports.
Keep in mind these saws will not slab, and may not do straight lines as well as a rigid blade on a trim saw. Their advantage is that you can cut out almost jigsaw puzzle shapes.
|
|
|
Post by stoner on Jan 20, 2006 3:25:52 GMT -5
Deb193-I have a Gryphon band saw-picked it up off ebay for $79.00 without a blade. These saws will cut agate up to 1/4" thick, but very slowly. They work much better on thinner material. Tell me more about these fusers blades. I bought a standard blade and it doesn't seem like it will last very long. And they ain't cheap.
Spaceman-I'll take some pics of my saw and take some measurements, and send them to you in aPM.
Ed
|
|
spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 20, 2006 3:52:12 GMT -5
Deb193, Thanks my main thing I want to cut is agate's and Jaspers into slabs. I have some thick peices that would be beautiful as slabs. I'll check these saw's out and look around E-Bay for them. The reason I wanted to convert the table saw is finances don't allow for any extras rite now we are trying to recover from buying our first house . Which lead to the rocks, so it all worked out. Stoner, thanks again I would love to make my own from scratch, and wouldn't you know it, I just happen to have a Home Depot gift card with some money left on it still . Then I can keep the table saw for my wood projects, when Spring get's here I'll be building a greenhouse and that might come in handy. Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
|
Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Jan 20, 2006 15:12:01 GMT -5
Hi Spaceman, If your making slabs have a look at my fence I added to my Saw
A fence makes a fantastic difference, Hope the GH goes up well I made one
2 years ago & a summer house this year
have a good day Jack Yorkshire UK
|
|
spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 21, 2006 1:18:28 GMT -5
Yeah a fence would be awsome I have tried to cut wood without one and let's just say I would be better at making a rocking chair than a flat box. Good thing 2X4's are already square or close anyway. I have built 3 greenhouses in 3 years, learning from each one what works and what does not work. I think I'm ready to build THE GREENHOUSE for me this time 4's a charm rite . I have helped design about 15 greenhouses in the past few years though so plenty of drawing board experience. This time though I'm really going to challange myself, I want a half dome against the side of the house with heated floors and fully automated. It will take a while for the extras because the most chalanging part is going to be, being creavive with the budget . Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
BrotherGump
off to a rocking start
Old fisherman.........new rockhound
Member since January 2006
Posts: 18
|
Post by BrotherGump on Jan 22, 2006 4:03:25 GMT -5
A short note: Lowes has a few really nice "chop-saws" that have a great vise made into them for around $90 and are 14" saws. They come with a cutoff blade and are not designed for wet use but it seems the readers in this tread are those die-hard type and I myself. will be tryuing the saw out tommorow so I can let you know how it cuts. I mostly cut agate and petrified wood.
|
|
spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 24, 2006 1:45:10 GMT -5
Awsome let me know how it went that would be awsome for $90.00 . I would mostly be cutting the same. I found a cordless Mitre Saw at Home Depot for $40 and had to pick it up I was thinking since it's cordles there's less worry of electrocution. My dad said he just uses a spray bottle periodically when useing his dry tile sawfor tile. How much water is necessary? Remember I have no basis of what is a little or a lot of water.
Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
Shelbeeray
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2006
Posts: 688
|
Post by Shelbeeray on Jan 24, 2006 23:46:29 GMT -5
My husband modified a cut-off saw for me. However, we are still waiting for the diamond blade we had to order in. The blade that came with it, intended for cutting steel, masonry, concrete, etc. just doesn't work. But, what I did realize is that we needed a T that would squirt water on both sides of the blade. Because of the way our blade is set with the vise & base we can't really submerge it in water or oil. I wouldn't want to let the rock get dry simply because of the possiblity of breathing in silicates. There is still a possibility of that, even with wet stones. Here's what we have so far: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/index.cgi?board=Pictures&action=display&thread=1136680051
|
|
BrotherGump
off to a rocking start
Old fisherman.........new rockhound
Member since January 2006
Posts: 18
|
Post by BrotherGump on Jan 25, 2006 0:51:36 GMT -5
Hi, The dayum saw at Lowes was on clearance and was gone when I went back. BUT they had others for $99.................... But I got to looking at one for $200 that was a lot better. It was a chop/miter saw and had the ability to cut also along a track. It looks awesome BUT I got scared about the shock factor. Which I really think I can control \. Another thing was really a pain was the make of the saw and the fact that the bearings were pretty much exposed.
I did get an idea tho from the 2 hours I spent fighting with myself to get the saw.
I liked the track system that the saw had and think I can make a similar track for my lil tile saw.
Basically I think I can make 2 ends out of wood to hold 2 shafts and then make a platform mounted on these thacks by putting 2 peices of wood together and boring down the middle to make a "split bearing" type platform to mount a simple vise on. Then take this contraption and mount it on the saw top......[ this might mean even making another saw table with the tile saw motor] Anyway the vise-held rock would move to the saw blade and make the tile saw a lot steadyier and more efficient too. Mike
|
|
spacemanspliff
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2006
Posts: 171
|
Post by spacemanspliff on Jan 25, 2006 3:47:34 GMT -5
Shelby, That's an awsome modification!!! Thank you for posting the link I'll post something over there. BrotherGump, You sould like me, wandering through the hardware store dreaming up way's to create things. I have many many times gotten lost in my thoughts at the hardware store when the employees walk by they always ask me if I'm finding everything ok. I must look lost . The only thing I have not found there is the interface that takes the ideas from my head and show's it on the screen for them to help me decypher . Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff
|
|
jlc0321
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2005
Posts: 408
|
Post by jlc0321 on Feb 1, 2006 21:06:46 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I was on another board and another rock enthusiast saw this thread and was concerned for a couple of reasons. Here is the link to the message, which is concerning saw speed, and chance of electrical shock. www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/post/mcrocks/vpost?id=889119&pid=8458574#post8458574Had to post this for everyones sake, hope this info helps. The part of the message I am talking about was started by Jay Bates. Jeff
|
|
|
Post by docone31 on Feb 4, 2006 21:55:37 GMT -5
If it were me, I would go to Ace Hardware and order a two wheel pulley arbor system. Costs about 28$. You will need pulleys, belts, make a stand, use a water drip on the wheels or blades, and save your self a lot of headaches. A saw blade should have 1/2 " of its lower part in a water bath. You could use a tile saw blade. The kerf is wider than lapidary blades, but, when you are ready for thinner blades, you will have answered all these questions anyway. That is old school, and it still works real well. Since you work with wood, you will be able to make a table, fence, and spray shield. The main point is the arbor and the motor isolation from the water. Should be fairly simple. Some of my best cuts were done on a Benchmate 8" bench grinder from Walmart. The fancy schmancy tools I have gotten have not done so well. I just bought a ready made up, and ready to be rebuild 8" wet arbor with motor. I am going back to the old ways. They work better. All diamond wheels though, they also work better and longer.
|
|
|
Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Feb 5, 2006 5:01:59 GMT -5
Hi Spacemanspiff, I think your idea of a low volt battrie saw is great as long as the battrie lasts . hope you got a couple of spares ?
As regards water feed,
A few people have said a water bottle spray in my thoughts i think if you spit at it it would have the same effect WHAT is the purpose of water lub ricant
1 - to COOL the blade ( a higher volume of water needed.)
2 - To cut down the dust A health problem
3 - Also to wash the Dimonds of rock granuals on the cutting area ( also another high volume of water needed)
I have used a 5 gallon drum with a plastic pipe on it and a little plastic tap to adjust the stream
Ihavent used a chop saw for the cutting of rock and dont know of the watertight ness of the saw BUT a close observation of a drip/stream would show if it was splashing back.
Dust +Water = DANGER big time
I would ask any other friends to please address any of my comments & errors especialy as regards safety
Many thanks
Jack Yorkshire UK
|
|
Shelbeeray
has rocks in the head
Member since January 2006
Posts: 688
|
Post by Shelbeeray on Feb 5, 2006 17:29:40 GMT -5
Well, our modified chop saw went up in smoke. The blade was icy cold, but the motor decided it had enough after 3 cuts today. BTW it cut through a 3" slice of agate in a minute with minimal pressure. I think one cut requires a 15 minute break for the motor to cool off, then perhaps another cut and then another 15 minute break... I'm really looking forward to getting something like the workforce. My hubby is going to take the motor apart tomorrow and see what he can figure out .
|
|