|
Post by johnjsgems on Apr 14, 2011 8:42:08 GMT -5
You could easily go to polish from the 3000 belt. Some do use an 8K, 14K and 50 K belt instead. I go to 14K diamond polish from my 3000 Nova. The machine I learned on I went from a worn out 600 SC belt to polish. Both worked well.
|
|
juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
|
Post by juzwuz on Apr 14, 2011 11:48:30 GMT -5
You could easily go to polish from the 3000 belt. Some do use an 8K, 14K and 50 K belt instead. I go to 14K diamond polish from my 3000 Nova. The machine I learned on I went from a worn out 600 SC belt to polish. Both worked well. John, Do you use the 14K diamond polish on a leather pad or felt? I think I'll set up an order on your website for the polish, rubber backing, adhesive, and leather or felt pad. Thanks for the tips! Justin
|
|
juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
|
Post by juzwuz on Apr 17, 2011 22:40:12 GMT -5
Here's a picture of the motor mount. The weight of the motor provides the tension on the belt. This is the way the previous owner had the motor mounted. Will this have any drawbacks? It seems pretty easy to change the pulley ratio but I'm just not sure how smooth it will be when the motor is first started.
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Apr 17, 2011 23:59:43 GMT -5
I have that same motor mount for a very old rock tumbler. With the capacitor start motor, it shouldn't be a problem. With a non capacitor motor, the motor will jump when you start it, and could throw the belt off.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Apr 18, 2011 6:51:31 GMT -5
My Frantom combo had the metal stand and the motor mounted underneath on a hinged mount with an adjustment rod. I sold it two or three years ago and never took any pictures.
|
|
drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
|
Post by drjo on Apr 19, 2011 7:27:09 GMT -5
SHAME on you John...no family pictures?! ;D
Only problem I ever had with that type of mount was with a stiff belt it would bounce and vibrate a little, but not unusable (as long as you don't have a heavy load, like a tumbler).
Dr Joe
.
|
|
|
Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Apr 19, 2011 11:47:04 GMT -5
That's the same mount I have on my HP Grinder. I had a spare set of brackets and rigged up a rod with some angle iron to mount the motor on and use it on my Star Diamond 10" saw.
Don, I get more of a jump on my capacitor start motors than I do with my non-capacitor start motors. Seems like the non-capacitor motors take longer to get up to speed.
Chuck
|
|
juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
|
Post by juzwuz on Jan 7, 2012 18:42:43 GMT -5
Finally reviving this project again. I got sidetracked by a woodworking project for my daughter's school (made a marimba for their music club). Then work got busy and then worked on my sphere machine project. Now I'm finding that I need to be able to grind down the sphere preforms so I'll get this machine working. I still have to fix up the polishing pad and see if the water spitter works. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by mohs on Jan 7, 2012 19:10:52 GMT -5
That's a really fine looking instrument you crafted ! !! Hope the FranTom comes together after that instrument you made- no doubt it'll come out like new
Ed
|
|
|
Post by Woodyrock on Jan 8, 2012 3:00:33 GMT -5
I use the same motor brackets, and like them better than most others. A way to avoid the initial bumping on start up is to use link belt...it does not take a set whilst sitting unused.
Woody
|
|
bushworker
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2013
Posts: 2
|
Post by bushworker on Aug 20, 2013 15:53:44 GMT -5
This is fantasic finding out I'm not the only one trying to fix up an old 8" FranTom grinder! Mine has 2 sanding drums on the left, 2 SC grinding wheels in the center, and a flat polish pad on the right. The polish pad threaded off with no trouble, bearings seem good. I was halfway through cleaning the old rubber off the sanding drums when I saw this blog. Very helpful! I would rather switch out the sanding drums for expanding drums. Is this possible? I havent been able to free the existing drums to remove them. I assume they are threaded in place, am I right? They are very solid Frantom brand drums, but my pipe wrenches didn't do much so far. Another option I guess is to remove the large lock nut on the right end of ther shaft and pull it all out throught he bearings, but that will still leave the old sanding drums. I guess I could put new rubber on,and just deal with what I've got. I was also interested in putting 2 more wheels in the center portion of the shaft, and I see here that it's possible. Will any 1" shaft size 8" wheel work? I was thinking of 4 diamond wheels instead of the 2 old CS ones Also saw someone wanted some cab rests for the machine. I removed mine (right and left), since I also learned to cab without them, and have a very real fear of losing a finger tip in one. If anyone wants them, contact me.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Aug 20, 2013 18:00:00 GMT -5
The split drums are usually held on with set screws. Look for allen head or square head bolts in hub.
|
|
bushworker
off to a rocking start
Member since August 2013
Posts: 2
|
Post by bushworker on Aug 21, 2013 11:01:38 GMT -5
Thanks, haha just needed a bigger pipewrench! Got the shaft clear finally, except for the final left hand grinding wheel spacer (same as in photo above). If I scrap the 2 old SC wheels, can I fit 4 2" wheels on the center section safely? I have a lot of green aventurine quartz to cut. any ideas on the perfect grit combo for that? I was going to have 2 expanding sanding drums on the left side. Polishing pad on the right side also needs new foam (or felt?). Since I'm starting from scratch, what grits would be best for aventurine? What would you suggest for polish pad final polish?
|
|
|
Post by nowyo on Aug 29, 2013 0:25:12 GMT -5
Picked one of these units up a couple of years ago, finally getting it going. glad to see I'm not the only one trying to resurrect old equipment. Have the saw working, which scares me because I realize I'm going to need a bigger saw. The cabbing unit runs, haven't really fooled with it yet, be a couple more weeks before I can get to that. I'll try to get a couple of pictures tomorrow afternoon and post them up.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Aug 29, 2013 20:44:11 GMT -5
There is a lot of space between the side walls for more wheels. I was going to put three on mine to leave more space between for larger pieces. If you want to limit yourself to 30 X 40 and smaller cabs then the wheels can be closer. I never could decide which three wheels I would pick and mostly used the saw on that unit. Heavy duty, well built units for sure.
|
|
|
Post by nowyo on Aug 30, 2013 21:26:55 GMT -5
My Frantom combo had the metal stand and the motor mounted underneath on a hinged mount with an adjustment rod. I sold it two or three years ago and never took any pictures. Like this one, John? [/URL] Please excuse the crappy photo and the mess.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Aug 31, 2013 10:59:58 GMT -5
Mine had the saw where the left drum is and all ran off one motor. Stand was less wide but same design and wood cabinet.
|
|
|
Post by DirtCleaner on Sept 13, 2013 20:39:12 GMT -5
Just tossing in a pic of a Fran Tom that I picked up about a year ago and am finally getting it ready to spin. There's lots of extra parts I have to figure out what they do and where they go.
|
|
|
Post by DirtCleaner on Sept 13, 2013 20:41:35 GMT -5
Here a few of the parts:
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Sept 13, 2013 21:13:55 GMT -5
Well, for starters, the T shaped piece on the right will fit into a hole on the right side of the saw. There should be a thumb screw to lock it in place. It's used to gauge the thickness of the slabs you want to cut.
|
|