herchenx
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Mar 26, 2012 15:31:39 GMT -5
For some reason I was thinking that Don (jakesrocks) had an online store and sold lapidary gear. What a guy offering to help just out of the goodness of his heart! - Sincere thanks Don.
I PM'd Don this too - but this will show you how out of touch I am with my mechanical self: When I told a co-worker about my need for a pulley they asked "Why don't you check at Grainger?" - it has been so long since I worked with machines (20 years or so) that I had forgotten what Grainger even did. I see their sign every day because they are about 100 yards from where I work.
$5 later I had my pulley. The motor mount on the saw looks home-brewed, so I am hoping I can use it or modify it to accept the new (old) motor and pull it down far enough to reuse the belt with the reduced-size pulley.
I'll post when I have tried it out.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,623
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 26, 2012 20:15:46 GMT -5
I know your head is probably starting to spin with all of the different answers but I would stay with a motor with 1725rpm. A 1/4hp motor is probably too weak for a 12" saw and I suspect that is why it burned out. Most 12" saws use a 1/2hp 1725rpm, single phase, continuous duty motor. I have one of the Harbor Freight 1/2hp motors on my Highland Park cabbing outfit and it's worked fine so far. If you don't want to spring for a new one, as another member posted, you can probably find a used motor locally. If you go to many auctions or flea markets look at the motors on squirrel cage fans, floor standing industrial fans, and various old shop woodworking tools like Joiners and lathes. These motors are fairly common.
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Mar 26, 2012 23:18:35 GMT -5
My two cents from someone who has made a few contraptions over the years. Definitely a capacitor start, some have a start/run capacitor, you can use either one since you don`t intend to push the motor hard. Capacitor gives it that extra kick in the ass to get uo to max rpm quickly instead of developing the speed gradually. And totally enclosed fan cooled as mentioned is a good choice as it is a continuous duty type motor and needs no external fan to cool it when you run it for a long day of slabbing. For blade speed i`d follow manufacturers recommendations. My 10" drop down tile saw can be run at either 1750 rpm`s or 2450 rpm`s with a step down pulley on both the motor and arbor. With a .032 thin blade I found it cut twice as well on the faster speed. Barranca labeled it as 3450 rpm max. That is too fast though. Keep it well cooled whatever speed you go.
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herchenx
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Mar 27, 2012 1:06:44 GMT -5
Just updated the OP with new info and a pic
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 28, 2012 21:41:37 GMT -5
For motor oiling I use the Turbine oil in the "zoom spout" bottle from grainger, The little spout tube will pretty much reach into anywhere and the oil is perfect for the old felt wick oilers.
Lee
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