mrflake
having dreams about rocks
Member since August 2003
Posts: 58
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Post by mrflake on Aug 26, 2003 11:04:47 GMT -5
I have just recived my first batch of thunder eggs from across the pond. Is there a specific way to cut them open ( they are too big for my tumbler so need cutting). They have what is best described as a honeycomb (imagine the comb cell size to be about 1 inch diameter)pattern on them which i assume is the insides showing. Rather than cut it and hope I would rather know if there is a right way rather than a wrong way, as it wasn't cheap to get these to me! Any advice welcome.
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Post by docone31 on Aug 26, 2003 21:11:03 GMT -5
Ok, here we go. You will need a diamond saw. A tile saw will work however the kerf is larger than might be acceptable.If you can find a lipidary club near you, you might be able to rent some machine time and some folks will give some sage advice that might or might not work. A standard grinding wheel will preform pieces. Keep water nearby to cut down on heat. I also cast some pieces in either plaster of paris or concrete for holding and cutting. The tumbler dissolves the extra off quickly without damage to the stones. I make a cardboard box larger than the piece cast, and cut and grind. Grind a window first, then make a descision on the cuts. A wet wheel will make a good flat maker for the stone. I hold it against the side of the wheel untill it is smooth. Good luck
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mrflake
having dreams about rocks
Member since August 2003
Posts: 58
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Post by mrflake on Aug 27, 2003 5:01:44 GMT -5
Thanks Doc, Unfortunately I can't find any clubs over here, lapidary does not seem to be the huge thing it is in the states, which is why I am grateful for all the advice from this board. Anyway it will have to be the tile saw and a lot of care, I have another batch of eggs on order so this first lot will be a learning experience.
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Post by docone31 on Aug 27, 2003 7:34:09 GMT -5
When I first started this thing, I used a tile saw with very good results. It is wet, and makes a large kerf, but it works. I also made my own lapidary machine. I can help you with that if you so desire. It is easier than one would think. Keep on cuttin'
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mrflake
having dreams about rocks
Member since August 2003
Posts: 58
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Post by mrflake on Aug 27, 2003 15:09:50 GMT -5
Well the rocks are open, learnt a valuable lesson with the tilesaw, it spits rocks at quite a speed!lol. Inside some were clear "agate"? others had a white and softer material. Very interesting and satisfying to do. Have made slices from them, the large middle slice makes acoaster and tring to put a thin groove into the smaller pieces to allow postcards etc to be stood in them, unusual mantlepiece ornament possibly. Hey Doc re, the lapidary equipment, I know you have given me some details personally, but I guess ther are a lot here like me who value your experience so put the details of equipment making in this thread. p.s. found several "sword/ jewellry sites" which one is yours? Also wire wrapping is not soemthing I had heard of until this board are there any reccomended sites to visit re instructions/inspirataion?
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Post by docone31 on Aug 27, 2003 18:41:49 GMT -5
I no longer make japanese swords. I studied under Matsuyama years ago, the old techniques. I make Mokume'Gane metal for jewelery. I am much better at steel than the softer alloys, however I have had some dynamic pieces come out. I also teach wire wrap techniques, and southwestern jewelery. I do not like breaking forums, however with thunder eggs, This is compatible. Grinding, sanding, polishing, requires grit. That being said, how to apply? Movement. Either horizontal, or vertical. There is the basic. I use an horizontal arbor. I ordered it through an hardware store. Cost me 18$. I run the motor, through the center pulley. To accomplish the proper rpm for the wheels, either stone, or diamond, I need 1750 rpm. Most 117V electric motors turn 2250rpm. to get 1750, I use 1 1/2 to 1 ratio on the pulleys. On the end of the arbor shaft with the direction of turn, I had welded a 2" tube, with threads cut for 5/8"X16. This I welded to a flat steel .025 disc. I backed this with hard foam contact cemented to the disc. I put a leather disc on the foam also with contact cement. This is the polish disc, and it holds the outside wheel on, which I use an expandable 6"X1 1/2 for corundum belts going from 220grit to 1200grit. The other side of the arbor I use an 1 1/2X6" 100grit diamond wheel. So you have from left to right, 100grit diamond, arbor, pulley, arbor, rubber wheel, polishing disc. Spray is an issue. I made a deflector from aluminum flashing and pop rivets. I go from the base on the back, up to the top of the wheel plus 1.4" flat to the front, to 1/3 wheel diameter. This works for me. I do this for both sides. I mounted 1/4" petcocks directly above the centerline of each, wheel, and drum. I attach to a Y fitting and hang from a 5 gal. pail for water. About the time I am tired and shakey,the pail needs refilling. I made my fine diamond saw from the same arbor, hung upside down, under a piece of .025 6066 T6 aluminum. I use greasable bearings on this one, and place it onto the top of a plastic Kitty Litter tray. The saw spray shield, which is needed!!!!, I hung from behind the rotation of the blade, drilling and tapping a machine screw for the angle pivot I made for the aluminum flashing I shaped as a shield. Sizes will depend on availability of the arbor components. I reccomend the heaviest shaft possible. The saw blade, and corundum wheels determine the shaft dia. It is that simple. I use motor weight to keep belt tension, and made a bracket for the blade motor. I adjust with elongated slots. It is so simple it is ridiculous. I started with a simple grinder, and had a water drip. It worked for the longest time. I kinda liked it better than the better way, however I like the machines I have now. Hope that helps. It is that simple
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Pdwight
has rocks in the head
Member since June 2003
Posts: 619
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Post by Pdwight on Sept 18, 2003 18:35:23 GMT -5
Well it is a small world, you used to make Swords...IE Ken. That is most interesting..did you make Menuki as well ?? I have always wanted to know how to make Menuki..Tsuba , Fuchi and Kashira seem logical as to the manufacture..but Menuki..thats another story.
Thanks Dwight P
PS I love Bo Hi and O Kissaki
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Post by docone31 on Sept 18, 2003 19:17:07 GMT -5
Menuki is made from shuikido. Shuikido is an alloy made from the coppers, with 6%gold, and12%silver. We would alloy the metal in an open forge, then pour into an ingot mold with cloth in the cavity, submerged in water. It is exciting, all the steam, smoke and hot water. Today, herculoy#8 is the closest approximate. It is commercially available from smelters in casting grain. It casts very well, colours well with liver of sulfer, or ammonia. Makume'Gane was also used as menuki or for decorating the tsuba. The secret to it all is to forge with charcoal! Charcoal produces a reducing atmosphere limiting the firescale. The molds for menuki are a green sand cast, or tuffa. Today, I cast with a potatoe. After making the model with wax, I use Kerrs satin cast. The potatoe is for steam to force the molten metal into the mold cavities. I love it, all these years and finally someone who knows. I bet you even understand the tenets of bushido.
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Pdwight
has rocks in the head
Member since June 2003
Posts: 619
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Post by Pdwight on Sept 18, 2003 20:04:07 GMT -5
Well I am always trying, I begain my Martial Arts carrier in 1970 and achieved 5th. Dan in 2000 , I also practice Katori Ryu Iaido..this is where the Sword furniture facination comes from.
Thanks for the information, a pleasure to talk to someone who knows..did you do your own polishing ?
Thanks Dwight
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Post by docone31 on Sept 18, 2003 20:54:58 GMT -5
Hai! I began martial arts in 1965, studying every Bruce Tegner book I could find. I finished up in 1988 with an artificial knee, and broken neck. The martial arts have made it possible for me to walk again. I did make Go-Dan in Washin Rhyu and Shodan in Kendo. Yes I polish although I have not done so for years. I did it traditionally, bare feet, with the final stone. It is that discipline that has made it possible for me to jewel. It was my fascination with the metal in the sword that led me to pursue Mokume'. Rather than stay strictly with swords, I have pursued making Mokume' into billet stock for rings, bracelets, and earrings. I am currently making a Mokume' bracelet with a meteorite cabachon I did, set in sterling, which was by the by, a Japanese metal also. The nomenclature escapes me, it was slightly less than 7.5% copper. Meteorites are easy, they are metal, mostly, and can be worked like other metals. Stones are a challenge, yet suprisingly predictable. No more draw filing, now we need special techniques for stones! The pile of crap I made! Working with sterling, and karat gold. Through inexperience on my part, I am mostly blind. My broken neck left me with no feeling in the extremities. A blind jeweler who cannot feel! My wife watches me work, and she is fascinated. I miss the dojo, and my waist has grown. Send an e-mail, and I will show you what a clutz can make.
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