|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Dec 24, 2018 11:07:47 GMT -5
toiv0 opalpyrexiaAfter thinking about this a bit the foredom hammer handpiece came to mind. Seems like it would make easy work of it. This video is what I expected for bezel setting This one starts off with a pretty violent tool but the end result is not bad. He uses the pumice wheel in the end too. I do not have any of those (yet). Chuck
|
|
|
Post by opalpyrexia on Dec 24, 2018 11:37:59 GMT -5
What is the purpose of soldering onto brass? Why not just use the nail itself?
Is the 24 ga you use for your bezel sterling or .999? Do you cut it yourself? Thanks A nail or other steel rod would work fine. The brass is more gentle with the face of my hammer.
I use sterling. I cut the strips with a guillotine shear. When I use 20 gauge I saw and file the strip.
|
|
|
Post by opalpyrexia on Dec 24, 2018 12:05:05 GMT -5
toiv0 After thinking about this a bit the foredom hammer handpiece came to mind. Seems like it would make easy work of it. This one starts off with a pretty violent tool but the end result is not bad. He uses the pumice wheel in the end too. I do not have any of those (yet). Chuck I use an older (original?) version of that Foredom handpiece that I purchased on eBay. I use it for bezel-setting faceted stones, but not for cabs. With faceted stones being much smaller, I like to have one hand with a finger or the end of a coffee stirrer holding down the faceted stone until I "pin" it at four compass points. Then I'll hammer around the stone one or two times. The trick is setting the proper force of the hammer for bezel thickness and the stone, and slowing it way down to make it controllable.
|
|
|
Post by toiv0 on Dec 24, 2018 13:43:45 GMT -5
What is the purpose of soldering onto brass? Why not just use the nail itself?
Is the 24 ga you use for your bezel sterling or .999? Do you cut it yourself? Thanks A nail or other steel rod would work fine. The brass is more gentle with the face of my hammer.
I use sterling. I cut the strips with a guillotine shear. When I use 20 gauge I saw and file the strip. I guess i don't understand the brass is more gentle with the face of my hammer. The face is the nail head? Does the brass give a little more than steel when hammering?
|
|
|
Post by opalpyrexia on Dec 24, 2018 13:55:11 GMT -5
I guess i don't understand the brass is more gentle with the face of my hammer. The face is the nail head? Does the brass give a little more than steel when hammering?
Sorry, I should have been clearer. I meant that the brass is less likely to ding the face of the hammer that I use to strike the punch.
|
|
metalsmith
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 1,537
|
Post by metalsmith on Jan 18, 2019 11:59:03 GMT -5
I’d have thought it would be used with the brass to the silver... more worried about marking that tbh.. & use a specific hammer to whack the tool, imho!
|
|
|
Post by opalpyrexia on Jan 18, 2019 13:35:14 GMT -5
I’d have thought it would be used with the brass to the silver... more worried about marking that tbh.. & use a specific hammer to whack the tool, imho!
Marking the silver is inevitable so I rely on the steel's polish and punch orientation to minimize it. Yes, the hammer that I use has a convex or spherical face. With my entire attention focused on the business end where I am striking the bezel, the curved hammer face helps to ensure that each blow transfers most of its force through the punch rather than knocking it sideways.
|
|
metalsmith
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 1,537
|
Post by metalsmith on Jan 20, 2019 12:04:40 GMT -5
I don’t hammer set but rely on leverage using a burnishing tool. Marking the silver is common but not by any means quite inevitable & it is easier to polish out a scratch like burnished mark than a hammered impression.
|
|