tghinge
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 2
|
Post by tghinge on Nov 21, 2019 17:33:01 GMT -5
I'm repairing my old Scott-Murray tumbler, does not have a name plate but has a sticker. I need a bearing source. The bearings are spot welded to an aluminum angle which is mounted on the frame of the tumbler.
|
|
|
Post by hummingbirdstones on Nov 21, 2019 17:35:08 GMT -5
When you want to load a picture from Cloudinary, just click the Upload File in the upper right corner. You can just select the picture from your hard drive and it will automatically upload it to Cloudinary and add it to your post.
|
|
victor1941
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2011
Posts: 1,975
|
Post by victor1941 on Nov 21, 2019 19:46:00 GMT -5
I would grind the welds off, pull the bearings and try to find them locally. I'm pretty sure RTH members can guide you in purchasing new bearings if necessary.
|
|
|
Post by arghvark on Nov 22, 2019 11:31:31 GMT -5
Just measure the diameter of the shafts with a caliper and get 4 pillow bearings with that inside diameter. There are many out there that are very inexpensive, with grease ports. Since it is low rpm you don't need anything super high quality. If you dont want to grind or don't have a grinder, looks like you can just remove that angle then bolt your pillow bearings directly to the frame. Frame looks thin so if you want extra support you can get some light angle to replace those aluminum pieces.
If you have an Ace Hardware nearby, they probably have everything you need. Might pay a bit more but they are very helpful and can set you up. You can just remove one of the shafts and walk in with it to make sure you get the right size.
Make sure the pillow bearings you get have slots for mounting instead of holes (most do) so that you can adjust to get the shafts perfectly parallel.
ETA: I don't see a drive belt tension adjustment, but was assuming there is one. Most pillow bearings today have cast bases which will sit them up a bit higher than what you have now. If there isn't a belt tension mechanism, you'll need to either make sure you get bearings that have stamped bases/holders (like the ones on the machine now) or may need to get a slightly longer belt. (Insert grumbling about unmaintainable design here.) Argh
|
|
|
Post by manofglass on Nov 22, 2019 11:50:43 GMT -5
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,680
|
Post by Fossilman on Nov 22, 2019 11:56:23 GMT -5
Awesome find and easy fix.... Have a blast...
|
|
NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,439
|
Post by NDK on Nov 22, 2019 12:36:48 GMT -5
As has been said this is a fairly easy fix. If you can get the bearings out from the cradles you could bring them to a bearing shop and match up new ones. Then drill the frame & bolt the cradles back down.
But honestly I'd get new complete pillow block bearings. I got the pillow blocks for my cabber I built from Northern Tool, they seem to be decent quality, have grease zerks and were priced very reasonably.
|
|
tghinge
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2019
Posts: 2
|
Post by tghinge on Dec 2, 2019 0:10:13 GMT -5
Thank you all, I found a manufacturer on the bearing (Randall Graphite Bearing Inc.). Oops, after closser inspection I realized that these are bronze bearings that initially looked like standard bearings. The only part of this bearing that needs lubrication is the "self-aligning swivel". I found that the oil I used partially liquified the rubber cover on the drive shaft, which got under the bronze bearing. I cleaned the bearing and the squeak seems to be gone.
|
|
|
Post by RocksInNJ on Dec 2, 2019 0:30:38 GMT -5
Awesome. Now it’s time to polish some rocks. Hope you have great results.
|
|