nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 29, 2019 0:53:49 GMT -5
I am finally fully reconnected to the outside world, yay. IMG_20191225_104248 by nik1924, on Flickr this is the wheel surface looking through a 10x loupe. there seems to be plenty of diamond exposed. There are also a good number of green diamond crystals exposed, but they did not show up on camera. IMG_20191225_202152 by nik1924, on Flickr this is what I had been calling a 120, but it is 125/100 micron, which equates to about 130/170 grit. Truly a spectacular wheel, it cuts fast and smooth through just about anything I have thrown at it. IMG_20191225_202027 by nik1924, on Flickr Surface detail of the soviet wheel Thanks again to everyone for the help and ideas.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,605
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Post by QuailRiver on Dec 29, 2019 16:19:50 GMT -5
The Eastern European wheel you have posted the photo of was made by the Poltava Diamond Tool Company. I see in your photo that one of the factory markings is M1. According to Poltava's STANDARD catalogue it appears that the M1 series of wheels they produce are alloyed for "Machining of tungsten carbide, tungsten carbide together with steel, heat resistant steels, and titanium alloys under heavy grinding conditions" and for Operating conditions listed as "usually with electrolytes" rather than "with coolant" as others they make are. (See page 13 of their pdf catalogue linked here: pdtools.com.ua/en/our-products/So that may be the issue - that your wheel has the wrong matrix alloy for lapidary work? You could probably email Poltava Diamond Tool Company and attach the photo of the factory markings and ask them to verify if this wheel is, or is not recommended for grinding stone. And if they say that your wheel isn't recommended for grinding stone, but it was sold to you as being so by the seller you purchased it from then you could try contacting the seller about returning it for a refund. But if you can't, or don't want to return it to the seller then you could always try to recoup your loss by listing it on eBay in the appropriate Industrial category and for the correct usage purpose. Larry C.
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EricD
Cave Dweller
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Dec 29, 2019 16:39:44 GMT -5
I am finally fully reconnected to the outside world, yay. this is the wheel surface looking through a 10x loupe. there seems to be plenty of diamond exposed. There are also a good number of green diamond crystals exposed, but they did not show up on camera. A lot of those diamond's surface (outermost parts) look like they are worn flat, or ground flat, but it may just be me. That would for sure lend to a reduction in cutting compared to another wheel with sharp points on them.
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 29, 2019 23:11:23 GMT -5
The Eastern European wheel you have posted the photo of was made by the Poltava Diamond Tool Company. I see in your photo that one of the factory markings is M1. According to Poltava's STANDARD catalogue it appears that the M1 series of wheels they produce are alloyed for "Machining of tungsten carbide, tungsten carbide together with steel, heat resistant steels, and titanium alloys under heavy grinding conditions" and for Operating conditions listed as "usually with electrolytes" rather than "with coolant" as others they make are. (See page 13 of their pdf catalogue linked here: pdtools.com.ua/en/our-products/So that may be the issue - that your wheel has the wrong matrix alloy for lapidary work? You could probably email Poltava Diamond Tool Company and attach the photo of the factory markings and ask them to verify if this wheel is, or is not recommended for grinding stone. And if they say that your wheel isn't recommended for grinding stone, but it was sold to you as being so by the seller you purchased it from then you could try contacting the seller about returning it for a refund. But if you can't, or don't want to return it to the seller then you could always try to recoup your loss by listing it on eBay in the appropriate Industrial category and for the correct usage purpose. Larry C. The Poltava is the finer wheel that cuts exceptionally well. The wheel that is giving me problems is a 6" with no brand or markings of any kind
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 31, 2019 7:33:31 GMT -5
I finally got it to cut. Not as fast as I would like, but at least it feels like it is working. The solution was a few light passes with a brazed diamond dressing stick. In spite of experienced advice, I figured that I did not have much to loose, so why not. I'm sure that I took a bit of life out of it, but there is still plenty remaining.
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Jan 5, 2021 5:43:32 GMT -5
Posting an update, I finally got the wheel to behave at least reasonably close to what I would expect. Once again, with the assumption that there wasn't much to loose, I gave the wheel a fairly heavy dressing with a coarse silicon carbide dressing stick, then fed it about a quarter pound of some low grade obsidian. It is still not as fast as the 80 grit Kingsley wheel, but I think that has more to do with the 25% lower surface speed than the 8" wheel.
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