ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Mar 26, 2020 16:12:47 GMT -5
ᎣᏏᏲ ᏂᎦᏓ (Hello everyone) Not to long ago I finished building myself a lapidary machine click link if you would like to see forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/89693/home-lapidary-machine A big thanks to everyone that gave me great advise, it was very useful. While looking for a motor for my lapidary machine I got a great deal on 2. I also have 2 extra pillow bearings. So now I'm looking to build a nice Trim saw maybe I'll make a saw / buffer combo not sure yet. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of any home made trim saws or combos. Any help would be appreciated. ᏩᏙ (thank you)
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Mar 27, 2020 6:49:21 GMT -5
What size saw were you thinking. I've got a 6" with a thin blade, and while it is great for trimming slabs and small stones, I find myself really wanting something in the 10 to 14" range to make bigger rocks more manageable. As far as using the other side of the shaft as a buffer, I'd be more inclined to use it as a coarse wheel for preforming. Mostly to keep the coarser grits together and reduce the possibility of contamination.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 27, 2020 7:42:24 GMT -5
If I wanted to build a custom trim saw . . . I'd want to make sure it was easy to 1. clean; 2. drain; and 3. access the blade with minimal screws to remove (think Raytech). I'd also want one that had a saw table that was large enough to accommodate big slabs and that drained the coolant back into the tank to reduce buildup on the work surface (attributes of a tile saw). I might even think about a fence that could be used when I was wanting to cut specific thicknesses from small cobble or stones on the way to preforms (working its way to a larger saw). After that its pretty standard for what a trim saw is and should be. Enjoy the process.
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Mar 28, 2020 20:32:29 GMT -5
What size saw were you thinking. I've got a 6" with a thin blade, and while it is great for trimming slabs and small stones, I find myself really wanting something in the 10 to 14" range to make bigger rocks more manageable. As far as using the other side of the shaft as a buffer, I'd be more inclined to use it as a coarse wheel for preforming. Mostly to keep the coarser grits together and reduce the possibility of contamination. While I could see the draw to have a good coarse wheel to do the bulk of any project, mostly this will be for shell work. So my Lapidary Machine should be more than enough. Not to say one day I won’t be messing with rock, but I think if that comes up ill deal with it then. I was thinking about a 6” blade but I think it a great idea to make it large enough I could make it 10”. Since I’m building it why not. I’m only thinking about a buffer because it is something I use and my bench grinder is going out. But maybe I can build it to where it could easily be converted to coarse wheel. Thanks for the advice.
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Mar 28, 2020 20:37:29 GMT -5
If I wanted to build a custom trim saw . . . I'd want to make sure it was easy to 1. clean; 2. drain; and 3. access the blade with minimal screws to remove (think Raytech). I'd also want one that had a saw table that was large enough to accommodate big slabs and that drained the coolant back into the tank to reduce buildup on the work surface (attributes of a tile saw). I might even think about a fence that could be used when I was wanting to cut specific thicknesses from small cobble or stones on the way to preforms (working its way to a larger saw). After that its pretty standard for what a trim saw is and should be. Enjoy the process. Yeah my teacher had an old Raytech and I have images on how it was built they are very nice. I do like the fence idea. When I teach shell carving it amazes me how many people can cut a straight line and always bind the blade. If I build a fence, I could make I clamming jig to hold the shell while they cut. Thanks for the ideas ^^
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hummingbirdstones2
fully equipped rock polisher
Vince A., 1958-2023
Member since August 2018
Posts: 1,461
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Post by hummingbirdstones2 on Mar 29, 2020 9:24:43 GMT -5
Hello there.
I see you've gotten good ideas for your saw build already. Couldn't go wrong with the Raytech design in my opinion. We have a 6" Raytech.
Your later comment on using it primarily for shell makes me think you might want to keep it smaller than 10". You could probably use the 10" for shell with water as a coolant, but blade thickness is another consideration.
You mention blade-binding issues, and a 10" gets pretty "flexible" below about .050" when feeding it by hand. I have a .040" MK303 on a saw here, and there have been times it "wandered" from the intended line - and I slice a lot of rocks by hand. Works great with the vise or the fence.
I've never sawed shell, so I don't know if there are chipping issues. If there are, the smaller and thinner blade might be better for that, too.
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Mar 29, 2020 17:34:03 GMT -5
Hello there.
I see you've gotten good ideas for your saw build already. Couldn't go wrong with the Raytech design in my opinion. We have a 6" Raytech.
Your later comment on using it primarily for shell makes me think you might want to keep it smaller than 10". You could probably use the 10" for shell with water as a coolant, but blade thickness is another consideration.
You mention blade-binding issues, and a 10" gets pretty "flexible" below about .050" when feeding it by hand. I have a .040" MK303 on a saw here, and there have been times it "wandered" from the intended line - and I slice a lot of rocks by hand. Works great with the vise or the fence.
I've never sawed shell, so I don't know if there are chipping issues. If there are, the smaller and thinner blade might be better for that, too.
Yeah I was teaching with a 6'' raytech saw hard to beat although I think the motored is starting to go out. the blinding issues the student would have is because the start to cut and notice they are on the line they drew and just to correct instead of backing out and straightening. The shell I use can chip but not to bad the thinner the blade the better.
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