QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 26, 2017 22:50:15 GMT -5
This machine is now SOLD. Thank you!
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 26, 2017 12:54:09 GMT -5
That flint is crazy cool....Might cut some more today also... Nice slabs! Thumbs up Thanks! I think I’m going to cut some more too. Need to get enough to try heat treating. Andrea I don't think heat treating would be an improvement on those slabs. Those colors are great the way they are! Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 26, 2017 12:30:13 GMT -5
Sale Pending to a member of this site. Thank you!
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 26, 2017 3:19:05 GMT -5
Here's an image of the only piece of Hexagonaria Percarinata I've ever had that hasn't been river/sea rolled. It shows the cell structure pretty well.  Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 26, 2017 3:01:42 GMT -5
Used Facetron Machine w/NEW Factory Upgrade...*SOLD*  This machine is now SOLD. Thank you! This used Facetron faceting machine and accessories were part of a group of equipment I recently purchased from an elder lapidary artist. The machine was made in the mid-1980s and originally had the older style spring needle gauge. But in performing a test cut stone I found that the angles were a little off so I sent the faceting head to the factory and had it rebuilt and upgraded to the modern factory dial gauge indicator configuration (at a cost of $500 for the rebuild/upgrade/calibration) and just received it back from Jarvi Tool (the maker of the Facetron machines) this week. Included with this machine are; fifteen (15) Facetron keyed dop sticks, a Facetron dop transfer jig, a dop chuck wrench, a 45 degree table dop, a target dop, a 96 index gear, and the original owner's manual. All of the electronics perform properly and the bearings are good. A few of the dops have flat spots near the ends from girdling/dop sizing miscalculations by the previous owner. The original urethane splash bowl has been replaced with a new one. There is some discoloration under the splash bowl where the original urethane splash bowl had been left on while stored and had chemically etched into the anodized finish (see photo of base without splash bowl). But this discoloration is cosmetic only and is hidden from view when the new splash bowl is mounted in place. In addition to the photo shown above I have uploaded a total of 19 photos of this machine and it's accessories to my Flickr page which may be viewed at the link below. When on the Flickr page click on any gallery image and then click on the full screen icon at the bottom right corner of the frame. At that point you may use the forward or backward scroll arrow to scroll through all images enlarged. The price of this machine with the accessories listed and shown is $1850 plus shipping via Fed Ex Home Delivery from High Point, NC. I would estimate the shipping weight to be between 40-45 pounds. If interested in purchasing please message me with your shipping address and the email address that you would like your Pay Pal invoice sent to and I will get you an accurate total including shipping cost with insurance, and will email you an invoice. Will ship within the U.S. continental forty-eight states only. I will likely be listing this item on other venues as well, but the first person to respond with a commitment to purchase gets priority. I do not carry a mobile internet devise so please do not be discouraged if you do not hear back form me immediately. Thank you! www.flickr.com/photos/quailriver/Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 20, 2017 23:04:09 GMT -5
Sheri,
Have you ever tried, or considered trying faceting? Faceting is much easier on the joints and doesn't require the finger, hand and wrist agility of cabbing and silversmithing. But even if unable to perform the lapidary arts, that doesn't mean you have to give up the RTH fellowship.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 19, 2017 17:59:01 GMT -5
Great polish! Especially for a petoskey.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 19, 2017 11:49:35 GMT -5
Thank you for taking the time to research and locate this information for me. These posted instructions are just what I needed. Will try to post updates when I am able to proceed. Thanks again! IV No problem in doing so. Already had the instructions scanned and in my photo files from where others have asked in the past and had a JIB UC204-12 bearing sitting on my desk in front of me. Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 18, 2017 23:56:18 GMT -5
I'm a politically unaffiliated pragmatist. Two to the chest and one to the head. And if there are not any other witnesses then there is no need to bother the busy police officers. They'll sort it out the best they can when they find the time to get around to it.  |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 18, 2017 23:40:47 GMT -5
I'll attach a scanned image of Lortone's instructions for replacing an arbor and aligning the blade. The same steps are necessary when just changing bearings. You might not be able to tell if you need to replace the arbor until you remove it from the saw. If there are ruts worn into the arbor shaft were the bearings made contact then you'll need to replace the arbor. If there are no ruts then you won't likely need to replace the arbor. The bearings that Lortone now uses on their 12" & 14" saws(unless they've changed brands in the last couple of years) are the JIB brand bearings. I believe JIB's model number UC204-12 bearings are the ones used on Lortone's 12" saw. You can buy them from Lortone, or on ebay, or just do a google search for "JIB UC204-12 bearings" which will pull up multiple suppliers.  Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 15, 2017 8:17:51 GMT -5
I generally change mine when I first notice that it starts clinging rock sludge particles on the powerfeed tracks and rod. When the oil is dirty enough that rock particles are staying suspended in it then it's working against you instead of for you. Those particles are abrasive and will cause wear on any areas inside the saw where there is friction taking place.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 12, 2017 0:00:46 GMT -5
There's always a chance that loose grit from sandpaper could get lodged in the wooden spool with that method. Plus whatever diamond from the spool that gets loaded up on the sandpaper will just get redistributed on the surface of the spool as you continue to sand.
So it would be better to remove the spool and take it to a local woodworker or school shop teacher and have them mount the spool on a wood lathe and use a well sharpened wood turning gouge to trim off a 1/16" or so from across all surfaces of the maple spool. And to prevent risking further contamination, ask the wood turner to wipe the gouge clean with a rag and a grease cutting solvent between shaving down each separate concave section of the spool.
Even if not contaminated this isn't a bad idea to have done for an older maple spool polisher of this type becasue even kiln dried wood can continue to shrink across the grain which makes turnings out-of-round. Which can cause excessive vibration when using which can be damaging to some stones.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 7, 2017 11:31:37 GMT -5
You might want to put up a picture without your address. Ya never know who might see it and have bad intentions..... but then I guess you could putta cap in dare azz.  No worries that’s not my address. It’s my instructors. An I’d hate to see anyone try any thing at his dwelling 😂 Might want to run that one by your instructor first. He might not like the idea of any potential thieves among the thousand plus guest visitors per day on this site knowing where his stash of firearms can be found while he's out at the range helping nice folks qualify for their C&C. Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 6, 2017 1:43:00 GMT -5
Just dop the domed front side with dop wax and a wooden dop stick to give you something to hang on to when polishing the back. Dop wax won't hurt the polished dome.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 1, 2017 23:47:26 GMT -5
Very cool slabs!
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Oct 1, 2017 23:38:20 GMT -5
I'm open to the idea but won't be able to commit until closer to time and see how my wife's health issues are doing.
But seeing as how you're talking about doing this meetup the week of the fourth I would strongly suggest that those who can commit to go make plans on where to stay and get reservations soon. That area of Ohio hasn't exactly overbuilt on motels if you know what I mean.
Three years ago I went to a retired rock dealer's living estate sale just southwest of the Flint Ridge area on graduation weekend in late May. Like to have never found a room vacancy. Finally found the last room available at a rural vintage Taj Matel complete with multiple dead flies in the window seal and on and in the vents of the A/C unit which was mounted underneath the window (plus the A/C didn't work properly), there was mildew on the patch-worked walls and ceiling, had roadside trash dump decor (not kidding the lamps, "artwork" and furniture all appeared as if they may have literally been gleaned from a trash pile in the ditch in front of some old estate being cleaned out. The sheets were so stained and dingy that for only the second time in my life (hundreds of motel stays) I slept in my cloths on top of the bed covers. Oh yeah and I almost forgot, the door wouldn't lock properly because the frame was damaged from where someone had kicked in the door. And how much did this little third world-ish charmer set me back? Only $110 for the night. So plan ahead and book fast if you can folks!
Would be nice if maybe a campground with cabins that haven't been booked up yet could be found in the Flint Ridge area.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Sept 29, 2017 21:10:58 GMT -5
Common dust masked little to prevent silica and asbestos from entering lungs. Silicosis and asbestosis are real dangers. A respirator with a P99 cartridge is what you need. I am trying to figure out what to do about the dust after its raised and settles. Wearing a respirator is good, what about when you are done? That dust is there waiting to be kicked up.. The 3m 8210 Plus disposable dust masks are rated N95 by NIOSH which is the equivalent rating for the non-disposable canister type respirators sold by auto parts stores for use while changing out asbestos brake shoes on automobiles. So unless you're dry grinding chunks of asbestos the 8210 Plus disposable masks are plenty adequate protection. Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Sept 27, 2017 0:19:36 GMT -5
I've never tried removing the topper laps from the Ameritool plastic master laps but I've removed lots from metal master laps (like the Crystalite "Standard" grade laps) by wrapping them in aluminum foil in pairs and placing them in the oven for 15-20 minutes at 225 degrees F. Then using oven or kiln mitts take them out and use the edge of a cheap grade wood working chisel to pry the topper off. Let the master lap cool and then use a strong semi-paste paint stripper like Strypeeze (not the biodegradable crap) to dissolve the remaining adhesive. Then use lacquer thinner and a medium grade steel wool to clean them up. You can then ad a new topper lap, or a sponge rubber disc and canvas resin pad, or a felt polishing pad to the aluminum master lap and reuse it. I don't know if the plastic master laps on the Ameritool laps could take the heat and chemicals of that process but if not, and if you can't find a way to get the topper off then heating it in the oven might be worth a try. Ameritool may not use as stubborn of an adhesive as Crystalllite and Raytech do.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Sept 26, 2017 14:33:33 GMT -5
Up north the stores don't sell chicken livers...not that my wife would fry them, anyways. Chicken livers are still sold in our area. Even some of the KFCs sell them fried. Back in the 70s and early 80s there used to be a Holly Farms Fried Chicken franchise with several restaurants in the area that had the most awesome fried chicken and livers. You could buy just an order of fried livers with nothing else. They sold them in a big Styrofoam cup with a lid to keep them warm. Back when I was living in Greensboro I would stop by Holly Farms after class and get an order through the drive through to take home and eat at the apartment. Nearly got addicted to those things! I wish that franchise was still around! Their potato wedges were awesome too. Not sure what made theirs so much better than the rest unless it was the oil they were fried in? That was back when restaurants could still fry with beef tallow or real lard. ...Great now I'm hungry! Larry C. |
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Sept 26, 2017 3:02:23 GMT -5
No need to wear an actual respirator when cutting most materials. A good disposable dust mask will filter out the dust particle containing mist. I like and use the 3M brand 8210Plus style. Home Depot sells them in boxes of twenty. www.homedepot.com/p/3M-N95-Particulate-Respirator-Dust-Mask-20-Pack-8210PPB1-A-NA/100583556?keyword=3M+8210+plus+dust+maskAlso it's a good idea to clean up lapidary equipment and the work area each time after cabbing or faceting. Not only does this help preserve the condition of the equipment but it also helps prevent the rock dust from the mist that has settled, and dust particles from the rock sludge in the splash pans/trays, from later becoming airborne once the water evaporates. I keep a fist sized natural sponge in my shop for this purpose. Only takes a few minutes to wipe everything down with a natural sponge and a small pail of clean water to periodically clean the sponge in. Other than the risk involved from the inhaling of rock dust, most traditional cabbing and faceting materials do not pose a serious health risk. But it is always a good idea to first learn what minerals and elements a material contains before you cut it. The gemology-online site has a a good post entitled "An Overview of Minerals Toxicity" that has some basic information. www.gemologyonline.com/Forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19492Larry C. |
|
Nov 12, 2024 9:54:37 GMT -5
Nov 12, 2024 9:54:37 GMT -5
Nov 14, 2024 18:17:57 GMT -5
*
Nov 14, 2024 18:17:57 GMT -5
*
Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
