QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 9, 2017 0:36:36 GMT -5
Great find! As far as unloading and moving around, those Covingtons aren't too bad to move. They're not as heavy as they look. Just have to take that leveling bolt out of the foot before you try to slide them around any. A few years ago I bought two 20" Covingtons at a college surplus auction and was able to unload them both by myself. I built dollies for each of them out of 2x6s and put four Harbor Freight swivel castors on the corners and they roll around easily. Just wish I had more room so I could use both at the same time. Cause every rockhound knows that you can never have too many rocks or too many rock saws - only can have not enough room for them all!
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 7, 2017 13:06:21 GMT -5
Just as a safety reminder - U.V. light rays can be very damaging to the eyes. I once met and old retired lapidary dealer who liked to use his U.V. light on rocks and gems and had seriously damaged his center-field of vision. When looking straight ahead he could only see what was to his left-of-center and right-of-center fields of vision. Not what was straight in front of him. There are clear U.V. protective safety glasses that will help prevent eye damage when using U.V. lights. Harbor freight sales a pair for $4.99. www.harborfreight.com/safety-glasses-clear-98366.htmlLarry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 6, 2017 22:24:19 GMT -5
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 6, 2017 22:18:16 GMT -5
It should not take 13 days to find out that what I ordered from their website is not in stock, nor available from their drop ship supplier. I had ordered February 21 from The Rock Peddler for two sets of the faceting lapcases for a total of $90.00. Not in stock. Found out her drop shipper was Graves. They have them listed on their website also, for $60.00. Found out today from The Rock Peddler, they are not in stock at Graves. Neither The Rock Peddler nor Graves has the lapcases even though they both list the item on their website. Took from February 21 till today, March 6, to find that out. The Rock Peddler cancelled my order and said I was never charged. Her policy is to not charge until the item is actually mailed. I don't want to do business with either company again. Urk!!! I truly hope amlap.com has them; they also charge $60 for two sets. Seems odd that The Rock Peddler, a middleman only, charges $15 per set extra. She advertises that they are cheaper for many well-known lapidary brands. So much for that! Hate to be the bearer of bad news but I'm pretty sure that Amlap is gone now too. They were a home based business and I saw a post a few months back where someone was trying to get in touch with them with no success and checked the address and the home at their business address listing had been sold. After reading this I tried calling Amlap's phone number and the number is now to a health/nutrition type club. Amlap had been my go-to dealer for the best deals on the net. Hated to see them go. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 6, 2017 22:08:15 GMT -5
Not familiar with that model. Can you post a photo?
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Mar 5, 2017 14:55:09 GMT -5
Rockjunquie is correct, definitely Flowering Tube Onyx. I've slabbed a lot of this material. The people who used to own the claim and mined it mass treated much of the rough with resin before they sold it. But it often needs additional stabilizing after slabbing.
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 27, 2017 13:14:41 GMT -5
Wow Larry, can't like that post as the story made me sick to my stomach. Sorry you had such a poopy experience! I would have been mad mad mad. Yeah I was pretty ticked off! Thanks to the help of the younger sister I was able to get enough rough to probably pay for gas and motel. But nothing for two days of my time driving. I'm sure I wasn't the only person who made a trip there for the first scheduling of the auction and that did not come back later when they did actually sale it. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 27, 2017 0:11:03 GMT -5
Score of the month! Oh man just saw the update. That really pi$$es me off when people do that. I had a handshake deal made on a motorcycle once. He called me the day I was supposed to pick it up & said he sold it to someone else. Grrrrr! I once drove 12 hours (each way) from NC to AR for a huge estate auction that had advertised literally many tons of old stock cabbing rough. I drove ten hours the first day and stopped in Memphis overnight. I couldn't sleep that night, probably from too much caffeine during the trip. The next morning I drove two more hours the rest of the way to the sale location in Arkansas. And this was the day before the auction was scheduled but was supposed to be the sale preview day. When I got to the preview the oldest daughter who was the executrix of the estate informed me that she had decided to cancel the rock portion of the sale out of fear she wouldn't have enough rock people show up to bring what she thought the collection was worth. I tried to get her to put a price on the collection as a whole but she just told me that I couldn't afford it. I was able to talk her into letting me pick out some rough out of the outdoor rock piles to buy for my troubles (time, gas, motel, etc.). After spending an hour or two selecting what was probably a couple of hundred pounds of fairly decent(but not great) pieces of variuos agates, jaspers, obsidian, etc.. I asked her for a price. Before she would give me a price she sat down on the ground in front of the pile I had picked and did a complete 360 degree inspection of each rock, licking portions of some, and literally caressing them like they were pets. After a thorough inspection she pronounced she wanted $4 per pound. By this time even here sister was getting annoyed and embarrassed and helped me get her down to about half that price. After a little more work I was able to get her to let me in the indoor part of the rock shop and got her to sell me a small amount of some of the slightly better materials for higher prices. So after having drove 12 hours with only having had less than a half hours sleep, I loaded up and drove the 12 hours back home so not to have the cost of another motel room. They did eventually have the auction sale of the rock portion of the estate but I didn't drive back for it. I heard they auctioned sections of the rough off by the pound and then let the winner hand pick what they wanted while the crowd waited, then weighed it for the total, again while the crowd waited, and then reopened the bid for the remaining rough in that section. And repeated the process until the rough was gone and then moved over to the next section of rough. I was told the crowd got pretty annoyed and that most of the rough only brought 25-50 cents per pound. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 26, 2017 23:22:28 GMT -5
I believe that saw is an early model Covington saw that has been "Frankensteined". Here is a scan of a 1960 Covington ad that I believe might have been what this saw started out as: Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 24, 2017 0:27:05 GMT -5
Ouch...some people...My favorite in the last week was an international buyer asking me to lie on his customs paperwork so he could avoid import taxes...NOPE. I expect to be dinged on that review too for having integrity. I don't sell on Etsy but when I used to ship internationally on eBay I had a few buyers ask me to lie on the customs forms too. Never would do it. In addition to the repugnance of the dishonesty, I'm pretty sure it's a Federal offense to lie on a customs form. So we've stopped shipping internationally because we got tired of the hassles. Too much time wasted getting international shipping costs and then the potential buyer who asked for a shipping quote didn't want to pay the shipping and wouldn't buy. And I even had a couple who didn't ask shipping costs and won the bids but then backed out of the sale after learning what the international shipping costs were. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 21, 2017 20:58:31 GMT -5
I've always wanted a Raytech 18" saw. There doesn't seem to be many of them around. Several years ago I found one at a business liquidation auction that had barely been used. The company bought it thinking that they could use it to cut short sections of PVC that they were using for some product that they were manufacturing. But it didn't cut PVC well so they rolled the saw to the back of their shop where it sat for years until the business closed. But right before the auction we had a serious family illness situation pop-up that caused me to miss the sale.
I talked to Rick Scott right after he bought the rights to produce and sale the Raytech saws from Lyman Industries and at the time he was kicking around the idea of resurrecting production on the Raytech 18". But don't know if he's still considering it or not.
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 17, 2017 14:39:17 GMT -5
Number one looks like it might be Kaleidoscope Jasper. Number two might be Piranha Agate. Sorry, can't help on the petrified wood. Larry C. Thanks Larry. It was softer that a normal agate, but not real soft. I'd guess in the range of 6.5, would that lend itself to being Kaleidoscope Jasper? I googled Piranha Agate, it's certainly a possibility, here is the rest of the slab it came from Thanks again. Peace, Rich Kaleidoscope Jasper varies in hardness but most of what I have cut was softer than most jaspers are. And after seeing the rest of the slab that the agate cab came from I'm a little less prone to think it might be Piranha Agate. I don't recall having seen that much deep green color in Piranah Agate before. But maybe someone else here can way-in on if it does occur? Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 16, 2017 23:13:21 GMT -5
Number one looks like it might be Kaleidoscope Jasper. Number two might be Piranha Agate. Sorry, can't help on the petrified wood.
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 16, 2017 16:30:17 GMT -5
... I won't ever buy bulk lbs of rough sight unseen online ever again...even if the vendor has a stellar reputation. The small amount of quality rough you get has to be priced extremely high to make up the lost margin in the lower quality bulk material. Yes it does run up the price return needed of the better material. That's why I won't even buy the bulk lots of rough at wholesale shows, too much mediocre material included. I would rather pay the higher cherry-picker price in order to get to hand select material. And even then, with today's prices it can be a challenge to come out well. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 16, 2017 14:42:05 GMT -5
Rough prices are definitely going up and that has to eventually force the price of cabs up too. Last May I went to the spring G&LW wholesale show in Franklin, NC. Even wholesale I had to pay more for good slabbing rough than I had ever had to pay anywhere before. I cherry-picked through literally tons of cutting rough and purchased the lots I hand-selected by the per pound price the dealers were charging for cherry-picking rather than buying the take-what-you-get bulk priced deals as to avoid being saddled with too much medium grade material that wouldn't be cost effective to slab. Just to see how I was coming out, when I got home I weighed each individual piece of rough and wrote the weight on each piece with a sharpie marker, and recorded the weight on a piece of paper so I could keep track. Then I calculated the cost of the trip and averaged that out evenly with the cost of the rough by the per pound dollar price. So now I had the actual, including trip expenses, cost of each piece of rough. I did this so I could have an accurate material cost factor to compare against the value of the resulting slabs after slabbing the material. Among the resulting slabs were some exceptionally nice pieces, a few duds, but overall fairly good commercial grade slabs. But based on what I would normally consider the slabs' value to be (perhaps I'm behind the times with prices) I found that in addition to the material costs, by the time I add the cost of the electricity and the saw maintenance & oil - That there is no way I can pay myself a reasonable wage for my time spent procuring and slabbing, and the time that will be spent reselling, least of all make an actual profit beyond that. So I can see how that by necessity the price of cabs & slabs, especially of premium quality material (that which is worthy of being made into custom jewelry or as being viewed as collector stones) are going to have to rise to keep up with the times or else the lapidary arts in the U.S. will be reduced to just another really expensive hobby (like playing the roulette wheel at a good-fellows casino ). Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 16, 2017 11:00:34 GMT -5
Have you dressed your resin laps lately? All laps can get glazed over on the surface but resin laps are more prone to than plated and sintered metal laps. And once a resin lap gets glazed over they nearly cease to perform. I occasionally use Nu-Bond laps and this is a frequent issue. I had to dress a couple of them just this week. With the Nu-Bond laps, the manufacturer recommends dressing with a piece if 220 grit silicon carbide cloth with the lap running at moderate speed, and use very light pressure (so not to embed any loose SC grit into the surface of the resin lap), and also they suggest to stay away from dressing the 1/4" of the outer edge so not to cut through the diamond and resin layer. Although they recommend SC cloth, I occasionally use a 220 grit SC dressing stick because it's easier to keep the lap surface flat with a long dressing stick than with SC cloth. But again have to be very careful not to embed loose SC grit into the surface of the lap. Also after dressing I rinse the lap well with water and then scrub it under running water with a nylon brush. Also I never use Nu-Bond laps on anything harder than quartz. For 3k pre-polish (faceting) I still use a charged copper lap although I think most cutters are now using tin laps for 3k. Larry C. Thanks! This is good info. I may need to dress the lap. I was also considering a 3K steel or chargeable lap. I used to use a plated steel MAJA brand lap (not made anymore). It worked okay but if you looked at the finished stone under magnification there were always scratches left behind. Which is a complaint I have heard about other 3K plated laps. IMO rechargeable is the way to go. I'm thinking about trying one of Gearloose's Zinc laps for pre-polish. From what I've read 8K on zinc works as well as 3K on tin or copper. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 16, 2017 10:09:37 GMT -5
Unfortunately I gave up on the stone. I have a friend who facets as well and he offered to take a shot at it and see if he has the same problem. Both my 1200 and 3k laps are resin bonded. I know topaz is an 8, harder than quartz, but it is taking far too long to work each facet on 3k. I'll let you all know what I find out. Thanks for the comments and suggestions. Have you dressed your resin laps lately? All laps can get glazed over on the surface but resin laps are more prone to than plated and sintered metal laps. And once a resin lap gets glazed over they nearly cease to perform. I occasionally use Nu-Bond laps and this is a frequent issue. I had to dress a couple of them just this week. With the Nu-Bond laps, the manufacturer recommends dressing with a piece if 220 grit silicon carbide cloth with the lap running at moderate speed, and use very light pressure (so not to embed any loose SC grit into the surface of the resin lap), and also they suggest to stay away from dressing the 1/4" of the outer edge so not to cut through the diamond and resin layer. Although they recommend SC cloth, I occasionally use a 220 grit SC dressing stick because it's easier to keep the lap surface flat with a long dressing stick than with SC cloth. But again have to be very careful not to embed loose SC grit into the surface of the lap. Also after dressing I rinse the lap well with water and then scrub it under running water with a nylon brush. Also I never use Nu-Bond laps on anything harder than quartz. For 3k pre-polish (faceting) I still use a charged copper lap although I think most cutters are now using tin laps for 3k. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 14, 2017 22:41:21 GMT -5
Prismatic faceting machines were very well made. The craftsmanship was top notch and they were state-of-the-art in their day. There were several models of Prismatic machines with several variations. The owner of Prismatic was constantly making improvements in design. The son of the man who made the Prismatic machines is Zane Hoffman. Zane currently makes the Poly-Metric line of faceting machines. The last I heard Zane will services his dad's line of machines. I've talked to Zane a few times on the phone and he is a great guy who always seems willing to answer questions. I would suggest finding out which model of Prismatic machine you're looking at, get a photo if you can, and get in touch with Zane Hoffman at Poly-Metric. He can probably answer all of your questions. Larry C. P.S. Here is a link to Zane's site that features some of his dad's Prismatic machines. This might help you I.D. the one you're looking at: www.polymetricinc.com/prismatic_information.htm
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 13, 2017 20:05:53 GMT -5
Anyone facet topaz and have had to spend an inordinate amount of time on the 3K lap? I use Marsh Howard's Lightning Laps, which are great by the way. However, i am working a piece of topaz now that is taking many hours for the 3K lap to work out the surface left by the 1200 lap. I have oriented the stone off of the cleavage plane and am experiencing this problem on every facet. The only thing I can guess is that maybe my 1200 is contaminated and is leaving deeper than usual scratches. That or maybe the topaz has irregular crystal growth causing me problems. I can see that the 3K lap is working out the scratches but at a painfully slow rate...an hour for the bigger facets. An hour is far far too long to spend on a facet on a single lap! I've had no issue with quartz and beryl. Anyone else have a similar experience? What type of laps are you using - plated?...copper?...tin?...composite? Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 11, 2017 12:42:46 GMT -5
Hmmm. Does anyone know if this same sort of danger in inherent in the coarsest grades of steel wool too? ( Grade 3-4 used for rust removal etc). Or must it be the very fine stuff. I use the coarse grade stuff in the voids in the edges my shop roof to keep the damn sparrows out of the shop. Wondering if I'm creating a fire hazard.....Mel I think all grades can be susceptible to spontaneous combustion if they have rust inhibiting oil residues in it. Most commercial steel wool does have oil but a few types have been made for specialty applications that don't. And as long as it is not compressed the coarser stuff would probably allow more air flow through it and be less likely to spontaneously combust. Plus the larger fibers of the coarse grades of steel would require a higher temperature than the fine stuff to actually make the steel fibers themselves burn the way fine iron shavings can. But I would think that even the coarse grades with oil rust inhibitors would still be as susceptible to a static electricity ignition - especially in dryer environments. Larry C.
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