steelandstone
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2008
Posts: 500
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Post by steelandstone on Oct 21, 2008 15:06:17 GMT -5
Just finished this about 30 mins ago. That's how long it took to get a halfway decent picture. It was picking up every reflection in the room . The shape is not all that spectacular but that is the only shape she would let me do. I know most folks would have pitched this one as far as bezel setting it because of the right side but I'm going to give it a whirl.
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Post by Bikerrandy on Oct 21, 2008 17:18:21 GMT -5
That one's amazing, awesome shine and patterns
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canman
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2008
Posts: 3
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Post by canman on Oct 21, 2008 18:45:54 GMT -5
that is cool. I love the patterns
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Post by Bejewelme on Oct 21, 2008 18:47:31 GMT -5
I like the cutout, are you going to set it in silver?
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steelandstone
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2008
Posts: 500
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Post by steelandstone on Oct 21, 2008 19:33:30 GMT -5
I like the cutout, are you going to set it in silver? Yes, The cut out was not planned in the begining it was just the nature of the beast. It had a section between the gap but the more I shaped the cab it became to thin so out it came. I will modify my bezel and the back to work around it. It will be a good challange for me.
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Post by Tony W on Oct 21, 2008 21:49:17 GMT -5
That is a nice stone and a real challenge to mount, I would expect. I am fixing to order up some sheet and bezel wire, and I'm wondering what guage you work with. I would think the back could be whatever you have on hand, but the bezel wire would have to be pretty malable to work with that shape.. bending it into that cut out, yet it would need to be strong enough to hold in the stone over time. Would you go soft and anneal it after you form it? And what do you think of solder/flux in a tube? I've worked with it on making prong mounts and it works well, but don't know if I should go with sheet solder for working with silver sheet and bezel wire. I figure I would need high, med, and low heat solder and the paste is pretty much low heat since I can get it to run with a cig. lighter. See, I told you you would have to do a tute and give out secrets Tony
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steelandstone
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2008
Posts: 500
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Post by steelandstone on Oct 21, 2008 22:29:32 GMT -5
That is a nice stone and a real challenge to mount, I would expect. I am fixing to order up some sheet and bezel wire, and I'm wondering what guage you work with. I would think the back could be whatever you have on hand, but the bezel wire would have to be pretty malable to work with that shape.. bending it into that cut out, yet it would need to be strong enough to hold in the stone over time. Would you go soft and anneal it after you form it? And what do you think of solder/flux in a tube? I've worked with it on making prong mounts and it works well, but don't know if I should go with sheet solder for working with silver sheet and bezel wire. I figure I would need high, med, and low heat solder and the paste is pretty much low heat since I can get it to run with a cig. lighter. See, I told you you would have to do a tute and give out secrets Tony Tony, For the backs I use either 26 or 22 ga. I use the 26 most of the time helps keep costs down. As for bezel strip I have 3 different heights, 2 different gauges 28 and 30 and three different styles. The bezel I use just depends on how high the side was cut on the cab and what kind of shape it is. The thinner gauge is much easier to get around sharp corners but is very tricky to do with out melting it. ( Always happens by the stray flame while you are soldering something else on the piece. In setting the cabs you want to be able to "roll" the bezel just over the edge of your cab. I always use E6000 adhesive even if the bezel is high enough to roll over. It helps cushion the cab and it is going no where when that stuff dries. The annealing question: I use dead soft for everything, it is easier to cut, and shape and besides after the piece is all done and ready to be polished it goes into a tumbler filled with stainless steel shot and burnishing compound for 4-8 hours. Not only does this polish the silver it also "work hardens" it. The Soldering question: I use solder sheet or wire for everything except for certain things. 1. Bezel strip gets soldered using Hard (75%) Flow Temp=1450 2. Bezel Strip gets soldered to the back plate using Med. (70%) Flow Temp=1360 3. I try to do all the other soldering tasks (except for the Bail) with Easy (65%) Flow Temp=1325 4. I always always always use Extra Easy for the bail no matter if it is a hidden bail on the back. Extra Easy (56%) Flow Temp=1207 I also use what is called Solder Fast ( This is a low Temp Solder 430 deg) Rio #503-042 I use this on some of the small accent bezel cups. The reason for saving the x-easy for the bail is because that is usually the last piece I put on so as to make sure the placement is correct so the pendant hangs the way I want and I do not disturb any of the other joints. I have also gotten to the point where I only use solder chips for the bezel and the back plate the rest I use wire solder so I can control the placement much better when I am doing all the small accents and such. It takes time to get the hang of it but once you do it is not hard. You need to remember solder flows to the heat so you need to be sure you get the piece you are trying to join hot and not everything else, and by this I mean say you are done with the bezel and it is on the back and now you are going to put on a accent strip. I do not heat up the entire piece again, I only concentrate on the area that I am trying to attach, the last thing you want is to loosen any of your other joints. In the beginning a lot of the simple pieces we did not have that many solder points, but now I just did one with 8. You will get the hang of it with time.
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SteveHolmes
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2009
Posts: 1,900
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Post by SteveHolmes on Oct 21, 2008 22:38:19 GMT -5
You have some of the coolest fire Agate cabs I've seen. Keep em' Coming! I fell in love with the material when I had the chance to dig for it outside of Bullhead City. Oneof these days I'll make it back out. Steve
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adrian65
Cave Dweller
Arch to golden memories and to great friends.
Member since February 2007
Posts: 10,777
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Post by adrian65 on Oct 21, 2008 23:33:30 GMT -5
Very original shape on this cab, I find it so interesting and beautiful!
Adrian
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Post by Titania on Oct 22, 2008 7:50:33 GMT -5
I love it! I think you could do some really interesting things with that void in the side. It really adds interest to the stone!
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Post by Tonyterner on Oct 22, 2008 10:23:10 GMT -5
That's a stunning piece of fire agate and you got an incredible shine. Can't wait to see it set.
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Post by texaswoodie on Oct 22, 2008 17:57:21 GMT -5
That's a weirdly beautiful cab! Curt
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Post by Tony W on Oct 22, 2008 22:00:31 GMT -5
Many thanks for taking to time to deal with my questions! Much appreciated. I have taken your answers to heart, and will forge ahead knowing you've got my back It looks like it will be great fun once I have all the cussing behind me, lol. Tony
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steelandstone
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2008
Posts: 500
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Post by steelandstone on Oct 23, 2008 5:08:02 GMT -5
Many thanks for taking to time to deal with my questions! Much appreciated. I have taken your answers to heart, and will forge ahead knowing you've got my back It looks like it will be great fun once I have all the cussing behind me, lol. Tony No sweat, glad I could help. If you have anymore questons fire away and I'll do my best to awnser them.
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Post by frane on Oct 23, 2008 17:12:40 GMT -5
That cab really looks neat. I am looking forward to seeing the setting once it is in. Fran
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Post by stoner on Oct 23, 2008 20:05:16 GMT -5
Nice job. Fire agates don't always cooperate when it comes to making them into traditional cabs. but that's the fun of it.
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