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Post by MrP on Jul 11, 2011 19:54:47 GMT -5
Anybody know where to get flat lap pans resurfaced?
Thanks..........MrP
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Post by Woodyrock on Jul 12, 2011 1:20:17 GMT -5
A wild guess would tell me it is less expensive to buy new ones given machine shop small job rates. Woody
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Post by sitnwrap on Jul 12, 2011 7:44:53 GMT -5
I just found a couple metal machine shops in my area that I didn't know existed. small shops. Maybe there are some in your area and with the economy they could be hungry for work. just my 2cents and also wanted to bump this to the top so it wouldn't be missed by others.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 14, 2011 8:33:43 GMT -5
Most machine shops could do it. A free estimate can be compared to replacement cost. It would depend on brand but Rose laps (Rociprolap, now Covington) are cast iron and thick enough to be redimpled at least once and usually twice. I don't think Covington's aluminum laps would be thick enough but could be flat ground and used with polish lap felt disc.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 14, 2011 9:25:55 GMT -5
The old Highland Park pans are plenty thick enough for a resurfacing job or 2. Diamond Pacific now makes the old HP Vibro Laps. You didn't tell us what make of flat lap you have, so we're all shooting in the dark here. Don
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jul 14, 2011 10:10:40 GMT -5
I know that HP-laps have two grooved sides. ( 20" & 27" ).
If HighLand-Park lap?, the polish plate side is glued in with, what looks like a hard contact cement.
I dumped lacquer thinner on plate to release the Aluminum plate sheet. Though don`t soak it more then a few hour. The ring around the plate should still have caulking seal. If not reseal with Vulcan Caulking. My two HPs 27" both had a new cut side, on each. What i did to remove the glue was, I used 220 grit and a dish soap slurry.
And one large cut rock. in hand to work around the lap.( While the lap was running ) Scrubbed the hard dried on glue loose. in the deep groves i used a putty knife to scape the material out. This was all done before the glue re-set - and dry out. I had a Clutch Fry-Wheel resurfaced, size was 11", clutch. over all diameter was about 18". O.D. I had .012 inch milled off. And this was a brand new clutch plate. Don`t trust Weber for a true Clutch plate. ( In the 70s ). Important that the side can be removed to true the surface. unless there is a lath in your area the has a chuck that size`s.
most auto machine shops could reface that plate. Though are those sizes on the Midget front wheel drives. LOL
I drive a 1982 BRAT 4x4. and looking at the clutch plate, look like the same size as a brake rotor, on the car.
Call around i`m sure in your area their is a mill in a shop. there may be adopter use on rotor disk to cut / resurface on them.
Can be done on a head mill to.
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jul 14, 2011 12:24:50 GMT -5
My Brain was stuck in the old days. CNC machines Well do it fast and easy. and lowest cost
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Post by MrP on Jul 14, 2011 20:05:53 GMT -5
Sorry about that. They are 15" Raytech pans and they are thick enough to resurface.
Thanks for the comments.
My pans look like a one piece unit. I had thought of a machine shop but thought maybe one of the company's did it as a service. Last time I checked on a machine shop I could not find one with a large enough lathe and a milling machine would take longer therefor I would assume a higher price. Guess I will check again............MrP
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jul 14, 2011 21:46:13 GMT -5
If the side is about 1.5" - 2 inch. tall on the pan. Have a new plate cut and glue it in, Best glue i have found for this type of work is Vulcan caulking.
An if you do just the rim of the old pan. Later it well be easier remove the plate - If needed. I`d guess you have a bumper ring on that model of lap.
I have a Fulmer 20" lap with the bumper ring. what i`m thinking now is any extra caulk our glue, in the corner would make the ring jump around. cut the excess out.
put pressure on it after gluing, use a five gallon bucket upside down. so the pressure is on the outside rim. and add that door stop size rock on the bucket.
If the pan is dished bad do a few even circle of caulking towards the center.
house painting in Oregon i found this calking to take a week to cure.
This material works great for the ridges in round tumblers to roll rock around faster and it last a long time. it is a hard rubber product. or use spots 1/4 inch high on the inside of barrels Just a side note for others to read.
As for the material to use i`d go with a tempered high grade steel.
Myself, i`d use 1/4 - 5/16th plate with, No grooves.
Jack
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Post by parfive on Jul 14, 2011 23:25:29 GMT -5
Jack: “As for the material to use i`d go with a tempered high grade steel.”
I’m curious about that choice, Jack. Most every lap I’ve seen uses some kind of tempered aluminum alloy. I’m guessing for better wear properties, even though we usually think of aluminum as soft.
Or, maybe it’s just cause it’s lighter, cheaper to cast, and doesn’t rust. I dunno . . . just mumblin'. ;D
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jul 15, 2011 9:43:03 GMT -5
aircraft aluminum, is best. still hundreds of grades to choose from.
The cast iron rotary lap i have is 18" and has no wear. Most of the 36" - 48" rotary laps are steel plate.
I feel the grit last longer, rust, the rotary lap i have was built in the early 70s. no rust on plate. Why i guess they used high grade cast iron.
Though the frame has rusted a bet. for the highland-parks i have, angle iron frames
And the steel tumblers from the 50s, Barrel are soft steel that i still run.
All this talk about equipment, The best machines are home built.
Wright you are - ParFive,
of the 3 large laps i have, their all aluminum plates. the HP-27s are aircraft grade plate.
The 20" Fulmer i`d guess the same. I only use it for polish, it has two pans.
Though the Aluminum hold the grit better but it loose`s the grit in the passing of force over the the cutting action.
Where the steel holds the grit. sorta like the copper laps in the faceting stages of the polishing.
For myself.....I only use 220 - grit, on all laps course i`l use ever - and a few times i have added 3-F ( 320 / 400 ) Grit to the mix.
And a teaspoon of soda bicarbonate to wet the slurry, And the higher PH - Level prevents rusting.
As why - it was used in the old tumblers in the past.
Boiler salts sometime in thew tumblers. to get the 8.8 PH.
Sure rust KILLs.
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