snowdog
fully equipped rock polisher
RIP David Fildes, aka: snowdog
Member since January 2005
Posts: 1,527
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Post by snowdog on Sept 27, 2006 21:48:13 GMT -5
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WarrenA
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2003
Posts: 1,530
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Post by WarrenA on Sept 27, 2006 21:56:58 GMT -5
ATTA BOY use your head and what you have on hand work your way up
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Post by docone31 on Sept 27, 2006 22:02:38 GMT -5
I like your use of pipe for the spacers. Should be real stable. That is how we used to do it, before the machines were made for us.
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Post by gemkoi on Sept 27, 2006 23:12:09 GMT -5
Way to go Dave!!
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spacegold
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2006
Posts: 732
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Post by spacegold on Sept 27, 2006 23:16:39 GMT -5
NICE JOB!!
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Post by sandsman1 on Sept 27, 2006 23:40:14 GMT -5
dam now thats a nice grinder don't forget the finish pics when ya get the hoods done and thats an ATOMIC GENIE hahaha i like it man you should put them together and sell them without the wheels and let the buyer decide diamond or silicon i cant wait to see it finished you will have every grit you will ever need i would do like ya said and put expandable drums on the end and use leather belts with diamond paste and your gonna have a shine like no other haha
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Post by sandsman1 on Sept 27, 2006 23:45:25 GMT -5
hey go to the scrape yard and find a nice stainless or aluminum baking try from a bakery or restaurant with a 2 inch lip and use it for a water pan you could bolt the whole thing to a board and build you hoods around that -----just a thought -- but i remember seeing them in my buddys scrape metal yard he was in the scrape biz and you would be surprized what he would get in i still have a workin 1940 or so outboard motor that came in it was only missin the prop hahaha
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Post by stoner on Sept 28, 2006 0:17:50 GMT -5
Nice job Dave. A helluva lot cheaper than buying one.
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StompRocks
spending too much on rocks
Gonna need a bigger tumbler!
Member since July 2006
Posts: 263
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Post by StompRocks on Sept 28, 2006 1:15:34 GMT -5
Hmmmm...visions of Tim The Tool Man Taylor! Arr arr arr
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Post by rockyraccoon on Sept 28, 2006 1:19:27 GMT -5
dave i am seriously impressed. if all that was in one of my drawers, i wouldn't have a clue how to construct that.
kim
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Post by connrock on Sept 28, 2006 4:53:02 GMT -5
Great job Dave!!!
Doc mentioned the use of pipe for spacers and if you don't mind I'd like to add my 2 cents worth.
The wheels should run at somewhere around 1700-1800 rpm and have to be balanced or the machine will shake itself apart.In order to make it an easier job to balance each wheel the pipe spacers should be faced off in a lathe so the wheels will start out being square to each other.
Balancing the wheels can be a real trip and wheel "run out" will make it almost impossible to cut a decent cab as you won't get a steady surface to grind/polish on.
I check wheel run out with a 0.001" dial indicator but you can do it by marking each wheel with a felt marker,start the machine,see how it runs.Adjust a wheel by turning it about 1/8th to 1/4 turn on the main shaft and tighten again and so forth.The more wheels you have the harder it is to accomplish this and some people don't even bother doing it but it DOES make a difference in the performance of the machine and your ability to cut a nice cab.
How would your car run if the wheels weren't running true and balanced?? Ride um Cowboy!!!
connrock
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blarneystone
spending too much on rocks
Rocks in my head
Member since March 2010
Posts: 307
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Post by blarneystone on Sept 28, 2006 9:24:49 GMT -5
I've been waiting to see a thread like this.... and I'm hoping we'll see more pictures of your progress Snowdog. After reading it yesterday I was wondering about the balancing factor too... This should be cool, hopefully all the resident experts will offer some suggestions. I'm gonna follow this thread closely!! Can't wait to see it finished!!
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Post by cpdad on Sept 28, 2006 19:32:02 GMT -5
hey snowdog...if you do happen to have a balance problem...or (runout)..in the shaft...i should be able to help if it is needed...just let me know if you have a problem with that kinda thing.
i probably have some...turned.. ground...and polished material i could send ya....it is much straighter than most material...even if i dont have any on hand...i will machine you a peice if need be....spacers also.
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WarrenA
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2003
Posts: 1,530
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Post by WarrenA on Sept 28, 2006 22:17:41 GMT -5
did you give it a spin yet?
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Post by connrock on Sept 29, 2006 4:50:40 GMT -5
cpdad, The balance problem lies in the wheels themselves so it's a matter of rotating them a little at a time until they run true.
The problem I have is when I change all 6 wheels or one of the "inside" wheels as the 2 outer ones have to come off as well.
The Nova wheels seem to give me the most trouble with balancing although the last set I bought were a snap to install.
As you know ,the longer the shaft is the more problems you will have without using some sort of "steady rest" to eliminate the "whip".
The shaft snowdog has may not be running true to begin with (as you stated) so your offer to make a shaft (and spacers) is a good idea and a VERY friendly gesture!! ;D
This is a wonderful place full of wonderful people just itching to help each other no matter what the case!! ;D
You're OK in my book cpdad!!! ;D ;D ;D
connrock
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Sept 29, 2006 23:24:40 GMT -5
nice looking so far, you must have hung around a blacksmith shop at one time or another. aint what ya need its what ya do with whatca got . You might stop in a welding supply store and pick up a spring tip type paint pencil. Starting from left to right or vise versa, make aline on each spacer. As you get each wheel running in con, mark a line from the spacer to the outer edge of the true running wheel.Using these [witness marks ] will let you know with a glance if your wheels have moved on the shaft and, when you have to replace a wheel simply line up your lines when you place wheels on shaft, con in your new wheel and when that one is running true, simply replace alignment marks showing correct position with the rest of the assembly. When you start checking the concentricity on your assembly the most accurate and fastest way would be with a dial indicator marked in .001 graduations with a large radius tip. The large tip because your wheels are very rough.that includes the one with the diamond paste on it.Mag. stands W/ indicator are a little pricey , a cheap outfit can run about $ 36.00 and up. If yer the materialistic type , which you probably arent, you can get easily drop $175.00 on the indicator alone. MY motto, why spend more on a very seldom used tool when for the same price you can have a respectable tool ,and, a whole trunk full of neat rock ?? Your project is looking good looking forward to a picure of the finished product
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yogi
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2006
Posts: 175
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Post by yogi on Sept 30, 2006 13:32:35 GMT -5
Too Cool, Snowdog! Oh I got the fever; I had been eyeing setting up an arbor like that. I have beed using a bench grinder with SC wheels, all dry. It's starting to get cold and I don't want to grind inside dry and I don't want to spend 250 for an arbor without wheels. Seeing your project just made me have to place an order at McMasters Carr. Looking at your pixs, how do you tighten the wheels in the center? It looks like a set screw shaft collar/arbor at both ends of the stack and spacers between the wheels. What keeps them tight, like on a grinder with a nut and threads? Can't wait to see haow it shapes up, Bill
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