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Post by Woodyrock on Apr 5, 2014 1:34:43 GMT -5
I know we have hashed this one over several times, but what is the general consensus for glueing end cuts to to wood blocks for slabbing.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,179
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Post by jamesp on Apr 5, 2014 4:17:21 GMT -5
I know some use Elmer's glue. After sawing the rock leave any rock with Elmer's on it soaking in water and the Elmer's will fall away.
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Post by manofglass on Apr 5, 2014 5:30:45 GMT -5
Titebond II wood glue is what I use
Walt
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Fossilman
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Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,687
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Post by Fossilman on Apr 5, 2014 9:53:35 GMT -5
I couldn't remember either......I need to buy some of that too,have lots of end cuts now...
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Post by roy on Apr 5, 2014 10:33:05 GMT -5
i have used both elmer's and gorilla glue both work well!
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Apr 5, 2014 10:41:21 GMT -5
i have used both elmer's and gorilla glue both work well! I have always used wood glue but have had a couple fall off in the past. What do you use to detach the last slab from the wood when you use gorilla glue? Chuck
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unclesoska
freely admits to licking rocks
All those jade boulders tossed in search of gold!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 934
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Post by unclesoska on Apr 5, 2014 11:51:35 GMT -5
I tried Hot glue, rock was solid on the wood, started to cut and as things warmed up, the vise and wood advanced, but the rock did a slow slide and stayed stationary. I was lucky to catch it before injuring the saw.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 5, 2014 11:59:12 GMT -5
Which ever glue you choose just make sure ALL of the oil residue is cleaned off the rock before you glue it to a block. I use lacquer thinner to clean mine before gluing. For smaller rocks I usually use Elmer's yellow wood glue. For heavier rocks I use 15 minute or 30 minute Epoxy. I let both Elmer's and Epoxy cure for a day or two before I mount them in the vise. Larry C.
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 5, 2014 12:05:13 GMT -5
I use wood glue. Don't get waterproof wood glue unless you want to cut the wood off the last slab. I clamp them loosely by tying a length of rubber tubing around it when drying for at least 24 hours. I do all mine in the 14 inch HP saw since the back and base of the vice are very close to 90 degrees from the blade so my last slab next to the 2x4 will be parallel enough to use.
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Post by phil on Apr 5, 2014 13:17:53 GMT -5
I use Elmers indoor/outdoor carpenters glue, allowed to cure for 24 to 48 hours. If the rock is cleaned well, they've never popped off. takes a week or so to soak free, but I plan my cuts so hat the last cut leaves me a good slab. I tried making a last cut right at the glue joint, but it seemed like such a waste of time and blade, even tho I know the wood block won't hurt the blade. But if you cut right on the glue, it soaks the glue off much faster.
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gemfeller
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Member since June 2011
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Post by gemfeller on Apr 5, 2014 14:59:42 GMT -5
I've used sodium silicate for years and have never had a problem. But careful cleaning of the rock and the wood it's to be attached to is important. I apply the SS directly to the wood block and put the stone on top and let it dry a couple of days. One warning: do your sawing fairly soon afterward; I've had old joins weaken and break from exposure to the air several months after being "glued," but not while sawing. The joint soaks free in water after a couple of days. I may try wood glue though because SS is getting hard to find.
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Apr 5, 2014 17:11:00 GMT -5
I just bought some Elmers wood glue and Titebond II....I'll try them both.....
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Post by Peruano on Apr 5, 2014 18:35:48 GMT -5
We are all correct. Elmers wood glue, Titebond, Gorilla Wood glue, and yes good old original Gorilla Glue work great. The Gorilla Glue is especially good if the rock surface is not exactly flat (rather irregular) because it foams and fills spaces producing a good grip. The directions say to make sure both surfaces are wet when using Gorilla Glue. It does take longer to soak off in water though. Freezing and thawing seems to accelerate the softening process when any of them are soaking in water. One of the benefits of winter in New Mexico is we get a freeze thaw cycle every 24 hours. Its seems like a thick base of wood glue soaks off quicker than a thin one; perhaps because the water can penetrate further into the space between the rock and the wood stub when its thick, but is slowed in its penetration when the rock is nearly contacting the wood. The only pop offs I've had were when I did not cure 24 hours, or when I probably had not cleaned the oil off the surface before gluing. I reuse the wooden stubs but only after I produce a clean end by sawing off a 1/8 to 1/4" slice to get rid of that old oiled surface. The last slab will actually fall off if you are patient and leave them in water, but I often rush the process with a putty knife, my pocket knife or whatever else is at hand, and so far have broken a few of the slabs and been lucky in not drawing blood when things moved faster and further than expected. Soaking some of that oil off in kitty litter before you soak the end cuts off is probably a way of accelerating the process. The water may not dissolve the glue as well if the surface and water are oily. Sorry for the dissertation, but it is an important step in our process. Cheers to all. Tom
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Fossilman
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Member since January 2009
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Post by Fossilman on Apr 5, 2014 19:18:56 GMT -5
Thanks Tom....Thumbs up
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Post by roy on Apr 5, 2014 21:29:58 GMT -5
i have used both elmer's and gorilla glue both work well! I have always used wood glue but have had a couple fall off in the past. What do you use to detach the last slab from the wood when you use gorilla glue? Chuck i will cut as close to the wood as i can if possiable or trim the it on the wood and grind off!
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 5, 2014 22:50:16 GMT -5
I use sodium silicate [waterglass] and put the last piece and board in barely boiling water, comes loose in a couple minutes, and the residue cleans easily. I let the "glue" cure for a day before cutting. Never had a failure in the saw.
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Post by Woodyrock on Apr 6, 2014 1:02:53 GMT -5
The only thing I have ever used was sodium silicate, but thought there might be something more easily found. Most of my cutting is obsidian, and it is a wee bit shaky in a slab grabber, which in turn is hell on blades.
Thank you all, I will try the Titebond II, since I buy it by the gallon.
Woody
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jerrys
spending too much on rocks
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Post by jerrys on Apr 7, 2014 17:57:09 GMT -5
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Apr 7, 2014 18:20:45 GMT -5
LOL,both times I tried,it failed............Scrubbed the hell out of the face of the rocks too....Oh well no big thing... Think I'll try that sodium silicate next time....
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rxscram
spending too much on rocks
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Post by rxscram on Apr 9, 2014 11:32:37 GMT -5
So I'm going to jump on this thread and ask a follow-up. I had some experts from my lapidary club recommend Elmer's wood glue, then let it cure for at least two days. So, that's what I'm trying first. I know that the recommended method of getting the final slab to release from the saw is to soak it in water for a couple of days, which leads me to my question:
My saw has a very slow feed rate (produces an almost mirror like finish, but only cuts about 2 - 2 1/2 inches per hour), so it takes a few days to slab up a whole rock (assuming 10-15 slabs per rock). Does the oil have the same effect on weakening the glue bond as water does? Or would it be okay to leave the block of wood and the rock in the saw while I slab the whole thing?
Thanks!
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