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Post by MrP on Jun 17, 2007 16:25:26 GMT -5
Hey all you experts, I don't need one yet but I know one bad cut can change that. I received so much good advice on the oil I have to ask about a blade. What is the best 20" blade to buy, why, and where is the best place to buy it? Thank You.....Mrp
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Post by deb193 on Jun 17, 2007 19:30:12 GMT -5
I only buy 10" so I will let others advise about the brand. BUT, does you saw have a poum? OR could you righ one to flow onto both sides of the blade? IF so, you can use smaller blades to cut most stuff,a nd only put on the 20" expensive blade when you have large rough. I think catmandewe is doing this with his 30" saw.
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Post by MrP on Jun 17, 2007 19:46:54 GMT -5
Not sure what a poum is? I really see no reason why I can't run a smaller blade. It has a 3/4 arbor so I could go down to 12". That is kind of what I had in mind when I was asking about the blade. Kind of waiting to see what others had to say about it. There looks like there is life left in this blade but learning on a $175 blade instead of a $450 would be a better in my mind....MrP
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,466
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Post by Sabre52 on Jun 17, 2007 20:15:38 GMT -5
I've got about 45 hours on my new MK 303 blade and am loving it so far. Like it way better than the MK297 or MK 301 which I had previously.....Mel
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WarrenA
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2003
Posts: 1,530
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Post by WarrenA on Jun 17, 2007 22:49:10 GMT -5
just remember that if you go to a smaller blade and the saw has the dip method of cooling that you will need LOTS more oil or some ballast in the bottom of the saw to keep the oil on the blade. Brian has some blades made for him in Brazil and he swears by them (cyberrockhound.com) and Dan Lopaki has his made in China and he swears by his which is better ? my 2 cents
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Post by deb193 on Jun 17, 2007 23:46:12 GMT -5
I only buy 10" so I will let others advise about the brand. BUT, does you saw have a pump? OR could you righ one to flow onto both sides of the blade? IF so, you can use smaller blades to cut most stuff,a nd only put on the 20" expensive blade when you have large rough. I think catmandewe is doing this with his 30" saw. Sorry that was PUMP. I have some fingers that no longer type as well as the one did. You don't need lots more oil if you have a pump. PM catmandewe.
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Post by catmandewe on Jun 17, 2007 23:48:01 GMT -5
I bought a cheap 20" blade from an ebay seller BUTW, he has them for $144 Buy It Now, and if you ask for free shipping he will ship it for free (over $100). I got it to practice with so as not to ruin a really expensive blade (I am running the 20" blade in a 30" saw, with a bilge pump to supply oil). I have a couple hundred cuts on it now and it is just barely wearing the paint off, I would have to say I am getting my moneys worth out of this one. I like the bigger blades for smaller stuff too, because you are running more diamonds per minute across the stone and it creates less heat by spreading the diamond/stone ratio out.
I am sure there are better blades out there, but this one works well in my saw, and for the price I wont be crying if I make a mistake, I made some cuts with mine this afternoon and I will post some pics in the photo section shortly.
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oldgrouchy
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2006
Posts: 240
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Post by oldgrouchy on Jun 18, 2007 17:28:48 GMT -5
I personally prefer Raytech Blazer blades or Lortone. The MK303 is a good one also. Lopacki, in my opinion, is not worth putting on the arbor!! I have heard good about the BUTW blades, and they are definitely cheap enough. I have a custom blade the previous owner bought on my 18" saw that is supposedly for petrified wood. It has worked well on everythnig from agate to chert to petrified wood for several years now.
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