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Post by Jugglerguy on Sept 6, 2014 16:12:10 GMT -5
I just bought a used cab machine from a friend. It's from Kingsley North, but made by Lortone. The last four wheels are pretty well worn, so they're going to need to be replaced soon. That bill is going to be much bigger for the new wheels than what I have into this. I'm not looking forward to explaining this to my wife. So I need some advice on what kind of wheels to buy so I get the most for my money. It currently has these Kingsley flex wheels on it, but they cost $97 each. If those are the best thing to put on it, then that's what I'll get, but if there's something just as good for less, I'd rather go that way. The current wheels are 325, 600, 1200, and 3000. Should I stick with the same grits? The second question is about the rust. Nothing seems to be rusting through, but the bottom pan has lots of rust. Should I just leave it as is, or should I consider cleaning it up and putting some sort of new finish on it? The hood is also rusty around the hinges. My friend said that he keeps it oiled to prevent more rust, and it looks like it would much more difficult to fix. Thanks for the help.
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kenefick
starting to shine!
Member since August 2014
Posts: 44
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Post by kenefick on Sept 6, 2014 16:26:26 GMT -5
I'm using basically the same machine (only difference I see is mine doesn't have the hinged top). For the rust, before you start using it, I would suggest a good wire brushing, painting with a good rust converter, then a couple of coats of rustoleum. Wheels - highly recommend the Nova. The Kingsley wheels wore out fairly quickly on mine, so I 'upgraded' to the Nova - 280, 600, 1200 and 3000. jsgems.com has them for $91 each, and John is super to deal with.
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Post by orrum on Sept 6, 2014 19:01:23 GMT -5
Can't remember name but someone on here knows how to resurface the wheels.
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Post by phil on Sept 6, 2014 19:47:38 GMT -5
I'd take it apart and nave it powder coated. Then it will last a looong time. try resurfacing those wheels, it's not that hard and mine that I've done are over a year old, lots of heavy abuse (used in class to teach newbies) and still going strong.
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RocknCritter
spending too much on rocks
Member since November 2008
Posts: 489
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Post by RocknCritter on Sept 6, 2014 21:11:42 GMT -5
Here's the info on resurfacing wheels that Orrum was referring to. linkWelcome to a great hobby and the forum!!
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Sept 6, 2014 21:24:26 GMT -5
Congrats on the new toy. Welcome to the big leagues. Bummer about needing wheels but they do last a pretty long time when you get the new ones. My lortone LU6X I restored a year and a half ago looks just like the day I finished it and I use it for my rough grind wheels on every cab. I just wire wheeled it and painted it with rust primer then rustoleum. I put shims under it in the back to make sure all the water pools in the front then I use a sponge to remove all water after each use. I do have brand new extra 1200, 3000 and 8000 wheels form china if your in a pinch. I have some on my genie right now and they are working fine. I just cant tell how long they will last? Here's the type of wheels and I got a good deal on them so if your interested let me know. I bought two of each grit awhile ago. www.ebay.com/itm/6-x1-5-Diamond-Lapidary-Glass-Soft-Resin-Wheel-8000Grit-/281413783898?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418591915aChuck
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Post by stardiamond on Sept 6, 2014 21:32:34 GMT -5
If you need hard wheels and your machine can handle the weight (heavier than dp galaxy), get wheels from Jadecarver. I've been using them with the Nova wheels for a long time. If you don't overuse the soft wheels they will last a long time.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Sept 6, 2014 21:49:40 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. I think I'll either go with the wheels Chuck recommended or the Nova wheels from John. I don't really want to mess with resurfacing them. I'd probably just end with an expensive mess and then have to buy new wheels anyhow.
I'd never heard of rust converter, but I did some reading on it and it sounds like a pretty good product. The Rustoleum brand gets decent reviews. Can anyone verify that as a good one or suggest something better? I'm sure powder coating would be good, but I think that would end up getting more expensive.
I'm most concerned about the hinges. I'm afraid that if I put anything at all on them that they won't move any more.
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Post by nowyo on Sept 7, 2014 0:10:26 GMT -5
No tips beyond what the others have said, but congrats on the new toy. The rust converter works, and Rustoleum is pretty good stuff. I have trouble finding it locally, but Ace has their own label on some paint for the same purpose that I've been happy with. That said, stripping the whole thing and powder coating would be the cats pajamas. In the end it comes down to are you fixing it up to use or are you restoring it? I'm real good with something ugly that works. That's just me, YMMV, and that's cool.
Russ
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Post by socalagatehound on Sept 7, 2014 0:53:56 GMT -5
Hi Rob For resin wheels I would recommend Johnson Brothers Super Nova Wheels. They are about 60% the price of Novas and they last about 85-90% as long. Better value for the money. And they stand behind them. Just got a 50000 grit replaced for free that went bad. Novas are top of the line, but $$$. Avoid the thin Chinese wheels that are way underpriced. I just reconditioned an 8" Highland Park Unit from the 1960s. Paid $50 for it. So here's what I did. Remove most of the rust with naval jelly before you brush. Be sure to paint with a rust inhibitor paint like Rustoleum. If you have weak spots in the metal, a couple of coats of spray on sealant (works like the spray on bed liner for a truck bed) really helps. Seals up the seams, too. Just don't get it on anything that you don't want plugged...lol. Available at Wal Mart in the spray paint cabinet. You just paint over it. I'd drill holes in the top and use a drip system with tubing and needle valves....eliminates cross contamination.
Other than the wheels I put on my machine (my third one) I invested another $60 or so in parts. Holds 4 8" wheels (my 3000, 8000, 14000, and 50000 wheels that I used to change out)and works great. Just some thoughts. Craig
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blackout5783
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 248
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Post by blackout5783 on Sept 7, 2014 7:58:04 GMT -5
If you need hard wheels and your machine can handle the weight (heavier than dp galaxy), get wheels from Jadecarver. I've been using them with the Nova wheels for a long time. If you don't overuse the soft wheels they will last a long time. I use the solid steel hard wheels from jadecarver also. I got well over a year out of the last 220 from him and I abused it pretty well. Damn heavy though! I would guess about 7-8 lb each. As for the resurfacing, it really isn't that hard. The most important part is using the right epoxy. 220 or 330 work well, and so does the 6 minute 2 part gel from loctite. JB clear weld is awful for this. I find that I need a little more working time from the epoxy to finish a 6x1.5 in wheel, so I add a small amount of acetone to the mix after the diamond powder. If it thickens up again while working you can add more, or if you add too much and it's really runny just wait a few seconds for the acetone to evaporate a bit. I order the diamond powder from yuriy06 on eBay and use disposable flux brushes to paint on the epoxy/diamond mix. Way cheaper than new wheels and it works great!
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Post by DirtCleaner on Sept 7, 2014 8:42:47 GMT -5
...I put shims under it in the back to make sure all the water pools in the front then I use a sponge to remove all water after each use. ChuckHere is how I set up my shims: A little velcro and they hold like champs. This makes clean up much easier and certainly more complete. Sorry there is no pic. but the front drain hole I have put a tube that drains down to a collection bottle. So when I am done grinding for the day there is only water in the very front of the catch tray. (Don't dump the sludge down the drain.) Good luck getting your new caber going.
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electricmonk
spending too much on rocks
Member since August 2011
Posts: 281
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Post by electricmonk on Sept 7, 2014 13:07:07 GMT -5
Use a penetrating oil on that piano hinge to prevent it from seizing. They are a bear to try to repair unless the pin is already super loose. Once oxidation kicks in it will be increasingly difficult to open/close and the chance of blowing out one of the hinge points increases. Your hesitancy to repaint that area is understandable. I would consider the penetrating oil, a light wire brushing to remove any built up oxidation and then using a very light brush application of an anti-rust paint (don't have a particular recommendation). Try to keep the paint from entering the hinge mechanism.
If you can remove the hinge pin then it should be significantly easier to treat.
Nice unit!
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Post by gingerkid on Sept 7, 2014 13:19:49 GMT -5
Congrats on your new cabbing machine, Jugglerguy! If your cabs are like your beautiful tumbles, we'll be in for a treat!!
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Post by pghram on Sept 8, 2014 10:42:15 GMT -5
Nice new-to-you machine!
Rich
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Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
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Post by Roger on Sept 8, 2014 12:09:13 GMT -5
Nice new toy, congratulations! For the rust, I would take it all apart then get it powder-coated. The last one I did cost ~$55.00. If that is too much right now, I would clean it as good as you can, then get some Kilz primer for rusty metal, prime it, and paint it. I would still plan to powder-coat it at some point in the future.
I have been purchasing my wheels from Han Lapidary. Chucks eBay link is their eBay store. Their prices are very good, shipping prices were dropped significantly, and the quality is good. socialagatehound posted about Johnson Brothers Lapidary. I am pretty sure Han's is still their supplier. I know they were a year or so ago. Han's stands by their products and has replaced the only wheel I ever had a problem with at no cost to me. But - nothing really beats the Nova's. They are always a pleasure to work on.
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electricmonk
spending too much on rocks
Member since August 2011
Posts: 281
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Post by electricmonk on Sept 8, 2014 13:01:12 GMT -5
Nice new toy, congratulations! For the rust, I would take it all apart then get it powder-coated. The last one I did cost ~$55.00. If that is too much right now, I would clean it as good as you can, then get some Kilz primer for rusty metal, prime it, and paint it. I would still plan to powder-coat it at some point in the future. I have been purchasing my wheels from Han Lapidary. Chucks eBay link is their eBay store. Their prices are very good, shipping prices were dropped significantly, and the quality is good. socialagatehound posted about Johnson Brothers Lapidary. I am pretty sure Han's is still their supplier. I know they were a year or so ago. Han's stands by their products and has replaced the only wheel I ever had a problem with at no cost to me. But - nothing really beats the Nova's. They are always a pleasure to work on. I have had somewhat good success with Han. Purchased a bunch of expando belts along with 2 sintered 8" wheels from them about 2.5 years ago. I just recently started my lapidary shop in earnest, due to personal issues everything sat boxed up. Found that the expando belts are way too snug on my drums (new drums). It is possible they manufactured them for the slightly smaller 8" drums (Lortone type?). As it is, it takes quite a bit of finesse to get them on and off again. Its possible their manufacturing process has changed since my order. My sintered 100 grit is great, the 220 however seems to have a bit of a wobble to it. Not sure I could get that rectified given the length of time since I ordered. I recently purchased a 5 piece set of 8" flat laps from them and the quality appears excellent. Haven't had a chance to try them, I still need to build a frame to support the flat lap that I purchased locally (can't argue with a $40.00 pricetag for a used flat lap - the motor was worth at least that much). Good to hear you are finding their quality to be good. My laps shipped in 1/3 the time they indicated on the Amazon shipping estimate though they did originate in China. Took about 2 weeks vs the 4-6 estimated. Might have to contact them regarding the sintered wheel, perhaps they will make it good. Was a bit spendy considering that it doesn't seem to run true compared to the 100 grit.
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