|
Post by captbob on Feb 12, 2015 14:55:04 GMT -5
Looking at a Raytech 10" saw - craigslist *sigh* - and have a question that I can't locate an answer to. What size rock will fit in the vise = how large can it cut? Searching the web and I can't find vise opening specs anywhere. Hard to tell from the pics how far below the table the arbor is, so how much blade height is usable? My specific question: How long (wide) can the vise handle and how high can the blade reasonably cut? Thanks for any answers or input on this model! This saw - already working on a lower price w/ seller. The hood is missing. sarasota.craigslist.org/tls/4885658540.htmlAside: is there a thread anywhere discussing the pros & cons of the front to back opening vise compared to the top to bottom clamp down type (like the smaller Covington or Lortone uses) ?
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Feb 12, 2015 15:13:11 GMT -5
It should take a rock 3-1/2 to 4" high, and as wide as the jaw opening allows. Probably 5" or a little less. If you get the saw, measure from the vise table to the top of the blade. Cut rocks a little less than this measurement, to always keep the rock on the downward side of the blade.
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Feb 12, 2015 15:25:24 GMT -5
It won't get 4". The arbor is completely below the table. 3 to 3.5 with about about 5" on the jaws - but when you cut the full depth, there is more heat, the blade wears faster, and bad things happen. Mostly cut 2" to 3" height for good life.
W/o hood an no autofeed I would not pay more than $475, and only that high because it is newish.
|
|
|
Post by captbob on Feb 12, 2015 16:38:33 GMT -5
Daniel, what do you mean no auto feed?
There is are two switches on the front - one for Blade and one for Feed.
I assumed that the feed switch was so the auto feed could be turned off if you wanted to use it as a trim saw. No?
I can get a hood from Kingsley for $112 - $130ish w/ shipping.
The owner only used it a few times to cut glass. Said it was too messy. I bet with no hood!
New saw @ Kingsley is $1,295. Used one like this sold on eBay last month for $740 (plus shipping - I can pick this one up) She sent me a pic of the blade - it's a MK 303 Pro - looks new.
I was going to offer $700 until I found there is no hood. Thinking six now. Reasonable or still too high?? Not sure how much she will bend on the price.
I want something between my 6" trim saw and the 14", but it's not like I have to have it right now, I can wait for a better deal.
Thanks!
|
|
minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
|
Post by minerken on Feb 12, 2015 16:43:40 GMT -5
agree with deb193 rule of thumb is cut is 1/3 the blade diameter, but through that out if cutting good hard agate and shape of the stone, with softer stuff you can max it out as long as you have your feed rate set right, there are lots of variables that you can only iron out with practice.As far as the price I don't have a clue.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
|
Post by QuailRiver on Feb 12, 2015 19:44:08 GMT -5
I have an older version of this 10" Raytech saw so I'm not sure if the dimensions are exactly the same as on this newer one or not. But the vice on mine will hold a rock approximately 4-7/8" long by 3-1/8" tall. The wood blocks in the vise are 2" tall. But like with any saw, just because a rock will fit in it's vise doesn't necessarily mean that the saw will cut it. The Raytech vise will not as securely hold as large of a rock as the Lortone 10" saw with the over/under type vise will. But the flip side of that is the Raytech saw will more securely hold smaller rocks than the Lortone vise will. Which comes in handy when slabbing small lake Superior, Botswana, or Coyamito type Agate nodules. One of the positive features of the Raytech saw is it has a plastic lift-out slump container which makes it easier to clean. Due to this feature I like to use mine when using water based coolants when sawing turquoise, malachite, Howlite or any other porous material that I don't want absorbing oil. It's much easier to clean up an dry out the Raytech after using water in it. IMO the biggest negative feature of the Raytech is the type of bearings it uses. Most slab saws use standard insert type bearings which are inexpensive to replace. The Raytech uses a specially housed water pump bearing that is more expensive to replace. The Raytech is a good saw and it's nice to have the trim saw option but for slabbing alone the now out of production 10" Lortone is my first choice. I would not pay over $575 for that saw and if it has any sign of rust on the power feed rod or arbor, or the blade has any wobble, I wouldn't even pay that much. Larry C.
|
|
|
Post by captbob on Feb 12, 2015 20:11:07 GMT -5
Thank you Larry for taking the time to pass all that valuable information along. Knowing the height of the vise blocks helps me understand the dimensions better. You would pay $575 even with the hood missing?
Have you ever had problems with your bearings?
I have a 14" saw for larger rocks, so going to the limit of the Raytech 10" shouldn't be necessary. I was just trying to get a feel for what it can do. Getting an extra sump bin might be a good idea if I get it to switch from oil to water in seconds.
Thanks again. Will talk with the seller and ask about rust & wobble before I drive all the way down there.
|
|
|
Post by phil on Feb 12, 2015 20:22:59 GMT -5
Rule of thumb for ALL lapidary saws = 1/3 the blade diameter is the thickest rock you should cut. I paid $350 for mine, and it came with 2 covers. Sold the extra for 1/2 price.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
|
Post by QuailRiver on Feb 12, 2015 20:28:33 GMT -5
Thank you Larry for taking the time to pass all that valuable information along. Knowing the height of the vise blocks helps me understand the dimensions better. You would pay $575 even with the hood missing? Have you ever had problems with your bearings? I have a 14" saw for larger rocks, so going to the limit of the Raytech 10" shouldn't be necessary. I was just trying to get a feel for what it can do. Getting an extra sump bin might be a good idea if I get it to switch from oil to water in seconds. Thanks again. Will talk with the seller and ask about rust & wobble before I drive all the way down there. Happy to be of help! If there is nothing else wrong with the saw and it has only been used a few times to cut glass as they claim then I still wouldn't pay over $575 with it missing the hood. With shipping, a new hood is going to run around $125. So $700 total for this used saw would be absolute top dollar IMO. I would try to get it for less. I have had four or five of these saws over the years and have had to replace the bearings on two. With any brand saw frequently used you are going to have to occasionally replace bearings. Also it is so quick and easy to clean out the sump pan that having a second one would not be necessary. Larry C.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2015 20:38:06 GMT -5
I have a 10" raytec pro.the blade height from the top of the deck is 3 5/16".the width and depth are both 5-5 1/8".hope that helps.$575 sounds pretty steep for that one.but when you don't have a saw it is more easy to swallow.i literally cut probably 500 slabs on the first set of bearings and so far at least as many cuts if not more on my new bearings(the new ones are a little bit better built.)these saws are beasts in my opinion.but as with any saws precision alignment of the vise and fresh dressed blades are always in order. Dave
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Feb 12, 2015 21:36:07 GMT -5
oh, I only looked at the 1st pic. I see it now. So $550 or $575. The guy wants too much.
|
|
|
Post by orrum on Feb 12, 2015 22:14:19 GMT -5
Put a 10 inch masonry blade on it and abuse it all you want while you learn the saws quirks. I do, did, n still r doin. LOL
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Feb 12, 2015 22:27:10 GMT -5
Only you can decide how badly you want that saw as a backup / alternative / adjunct to your larger slab saw. sometimes waiting 1 month or 6 mos is not worth $100 difference in price. I bought a 10" Raytech under exactly the same conditions, but when I found a Highland Park 10" saw (gravity feed) and saw how substantial it was compared to the tin of the Raytech, I quickly swapped for the HP. The plastic bin for quick clean is great, but not the end of the earth. The horizontal vice is not for me, but the HP has the same style. Either one is better than the 10" Covington and indeed its nice to have a bigger than a trim saw to hand cut stuff on when you just don't need to slab saw stuff. Do what you gotta do and don't look back for approval or disapproval from the masses. Enjoy. Tom
|
|
|
Post by captbob on Feb 12, 2015 23:25:16 GMT -5
Thanks to all for the input.
Tom, I have never seen one of these saws. I didn't think it was going to be a poorly built machine (tin). Heck, it retails for more than the Barranca Diamond BD-10, so I kinda figured it would be a tank.
As I said, I don't need it right away, just want a quality 10" saw sometime. The consensus seems to be that this is overpriced, so I'm gonna pass on this one.
I appreciate all the information and knowledge of those that have owned / used this saw. Sometimes ya just don't know unless you ask. Glad I did - thanks again!
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Feb 13, 2015 22:28:34 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Feb 13, 2015 23:10:09 GMT -5
yeah, I sold my spare LS10 for $300 and I kind of wish I had it back. I am about to sell my LS12 for $300 w/o a motor, and I wonder if I will want it back too. Just don't want to bother packing and moving it (I'm headed to Texas next month). When I get settled again I think I will get an HP 14 to feed my slabbing habit.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2015 14:10:19 GMT -5
CaptainBob, I probably misspoke when I used the word tin. Actually the sheet metal of the Raytech and its accompanying vice seemed a bit less substantial once I started comparing it to a vintage Highland Park (made out of cast aluminum or ? but substantially more resistant to damage or corrosion) and a more substantial vice. Given the choice, I sold off the Raytech for about what others have cited and spent some money on the arbor/cab machine on the other end of my HP saw. If I'm not mistaken, its an HP B-12 saw and arbor combination but each powered by a separate motor. You will find the ideal equipment for you if you are patient. Happy hunting. Tom
|
|