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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 14, 2017 7:45:08 GMT -5
If you are cutting a square, rectangle, triangle... anything with tight angles and a point, do you leave a bevel in at the point? Or, do you grind out the bevel for an even dome? I see both, but I was wondering what is more common or acceptable. I generally grind out the little ridge/bevel for an even dome to the top. I like the look of the other better, though.
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monna0000
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2016
Posts: 243
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Post by monna0000 on Dec 14, 2017 8:29:10 GMT -5
If you are cutting a square, rectangle, triangle... anything with tight angles and a point, do you leave a bevel in at the point? Or, do you grind out the bevel for an even dome? I see both, but I was wondering what is more common or acceptable. I generally grind out the little ridge/bevel for an even dome to the top. I like the look of the other better, though. Great question, i've been wondering the same, I really like the "sharp" look the ridge gives the cab but I often end out grinding it out for the same reason as you, it's like a habit i can't help myself, but i like the sharp look better🙃
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Dec 14, 2017 11:00:15 GMT -5
I always grind out the bevel on all shapes of cabs. The bevel might be great for wire wrappers, but it makes it almost impossible to bezel set attractively.
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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 14, 2017 11:09:54 GMT -5
I always grind out the bevel on all shapes of cabs. The bevel might be great for wire wrappers, but it makes it almost impossible to bezel set attractively. Ahhh, hadn't thought of that.
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Post by opalpyrexia on Dec 14, 2017 11:48:48 GMT -5
I always grind out the bevel on all shapes of cabs. The bevel might be great for wire wrappers, but it makes it almost impossible to bezel set attractively. It's also very risky to bezel set sharp-edged or pointed cabs without chipping or cracking some stones.
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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 14, 2017 12:19:57 GMT -5
I always grind out the bevel on all shapes of cabs. The bevel might be great for wire wrappers, but it makes it almost impossible to bezel set attractively. It's also very risky to bezel set sharp-edged or pointed cabs without chipping or cracking some stones. That's true, too. I quickly learned to dull the point a bit. I tried to set a trillion with very pointed edges. I gave up. Lesson learned.
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,667
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Post by Tommy on Dec 14, 2017 12:32:52 GMT -5
What's a bevel? j/k
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Post by vegasjames on Dec 14, 2017 19:38:16 GMT -5
I don't silver smith but was once told that sharp edges not good in settings because the sharp edges can wear through the silver.
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fishnpinball
Cave Dweller
So much to learn, so little time
Member since March 2017
Posts: 1,491
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Post by fishnpinball on Dec 14, 2017 20:07:49 GMT -5
I remember seeing a lot of stones in the past where they tried to keep the bezel and it really just showcased that the sides were not perfect in relation to each other, where doming tends to hide small differences.
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Post by rmf on Dec 14, 2017 22:05:16 GMT -5
angles are like adult diapers.... that depends
for Montana Agate I like nice sharp square corners for a stone like a mas ring. Marquis are similar. Teardrops I tend to round the point. I use to do silver and gold jewelry and never had a problem with bezels except for points. I prefer a buff top cab with a low angle dome and about a 70 or 80 degree shoulder. for dome tops I try to round the point and blend in to the dome. I do not make a flat bevel for points.
Softer stones need rounder points. This is where it helps to hear what people like to make their jewelry out of.
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Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
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Post by Roger on Dec 14, 2017 22:35:58 GMT -5
The answer is a question. "What is the purpose of the cab?". Are you cutting for wire wrap, bezel set, collector/collection, etc.
I am working on some nice cabs with strong geometric shapes and crisp, sharp end points. I like the challenge of the cuts.
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Post by Rockoonz on Dec 14, 2017 23:56:44 GMT -5
Are we inferring that cabs should be pointless? Are you talking about sharp points on the perimiter or a ridge on the face of the cab carrying up from a narrow point and transitioning into the dome? Those are tough, seen others pull them off but I don't think I've ever made it work so far. I think this might be the most pointed one I've set so far, perimiter point that is. Groove wraps do well here.
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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 15, 2017 6:37:59 GMT -5
No, Rockoonz, we are not. The thread has meandered away from the original topic of beveled angles. Points are fine, but maybe should be dulled a bit for the sake of setting. I have been grinding beveled corners for a smooth curve from corner to top.
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zzyzzyx
having dreams about rocks
Member since October 2017
Posts: 60
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Post by zzyzzyx on Dec 15, 2017 19:16:32 GMT -5
Are we inferring that cabs should be pointless? Like breasts without nipples. Hehe Pointless.
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Post by rmf on Dec 16, 2017 6:50:19 GMT -5
No, Rockoonz , we are not. The thread has meandered away from the original topic of beveled angles. Points are fine, but maybe should be dulled a bit for the sake of setting. I have been grinding beveled corners for a smooth curve from corner to top. @rockjunkie can you add an image of what you are talking about. I am not sure either.
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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 16, 2017 13:00:02 GMT -5
No, Rockoonz , we are not. The thread has meandered away from the original topic of beveled angles. Points are fine, but maybe should be dulled a bit for the sake of setting. I have been grinding beveled corners for a smooth curve from corner to top. @rockjunkie can you add an image of what you are talking about. I am not sure either. I don't have any cabs with the bevel so I can't.
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Post by Rockoonz on Dec 16, 2017 15:04:37 GMT -5
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Post by rockjunquie on Dec 16, 2017 15:11:52 GMT -5
Rockoonz, it looks like your second 2 pictures have no bevel line. They go from the girdle line in one sweep to the top of the dome. (Nice intarsia, BTW.) Here is a picture from adrian65's intarsia thread- you notice the ridge line / bevel that goes up to the top of the cab? That's an example of what I am talking about.
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Post by Rockoonz on Dec 16, 2017 15:47:25 GMT -5
OK I think I get it. More like something you can do with a bead or a groove wrap, like the ends on my jade beads. They're a pain to make them look even until you make a few. I have a couple cabs I did that are similar in design but they're waiting for me to learn to hammer set. Not nearly enough hours in a day.
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Post by rmf on Dec 16, 2017 16:20:45 GMT -5
Ok I get it too. In the old days when 99% of everyone was using SiC for grinding wheels and belts the (classic, legacy, "normal") cabochon form was a medium dome that started at the bottom and curved up to the top of the dome. This is because SiC takes more work to get a high polish on a low angle (buff top) dome compared to the higher dome of "normal" cabs. With many people using diamond grinding wheels the amount of "buff top" cabs with a low dome and a beveled shoulder is increased. Diamond cuts faster and the buff tops are much easier to do. If you go to the Gem Shop's web site it appears to me that all they are selling are buff top cabs. Some stones like picture jaspers and Spectrolite lend themselves to buff tops to maximize the top surface image. Where stones like Sodalite and and Aventurine are all the same color mostly and it does not enhance the stone to be in a buff top. Also a traditional cab is easier to set with 4 prongs (they hold better) than the higher shoulder. What type cut do wire wrappers prefer? Attached are a couple of Images The first is a piece of AZ P. wood I polished with 4 TN Agate cabs. The second is a close up of the TN Agate cabs in both buff top and classic styles.
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