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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 20:08:29 GMT -5
I almost always drain the slab on my trin saw table. Even a few minutes reduces the oil carried into the oil dri. If I'm in a hurry the slab can be swished against the oil dri which removes a grat deal of the surface oil. Or bury it and leave the slab overnight. Either way the next step is to a bath/soak in soap soluton(dawn for me). A soak is better and a dip in clean water is useful before drying or just jumping to the wheel. Obviously if you are going to a trim saw with oil as i do you may noy need to be oilfree except to be able to mark your cutting lines. And certainly oil removal is useful before trying to dop (I use super glue and nails). Are we having fun yet?
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 14:14:10 GMT -5
I kno we often say kitty litter but in my view a focused oil cleanup compound ismaybe more effective. I buy Oil Dri at wally world in abig sac. You dont want the stuff that looks lie powdered fluff. I should look like kitty litter but without the lumps provided by the kitty. Then to Dawn liqud.
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 6:52:27 GMT -5
What's not to like about those patterns. They will produce unique cab opportunities.
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 6:50:13 GMT -5
Now that is a cool way to visually depict the speciman. Alas not available or appropriate for every stone though.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 26, 2024 14:11:08 GMT -5
I can see why you were excited about all of them. The ones with fractures will sink somewhat in your eyes as you work up the rest. The pet wood with the white highlights may not be super high on the resale scale but it can make some wonderful lapidary material and is always worth working on. I can tell you are having fun . Continue on!
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Post by Peruano on Apr 23, 2024 16:49:27 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Somehow achieving the age of 79 seems momentous, perhaps because it's so close to 80 an age I would like to achieve as a healthy and happy member of the human race. I heped distribute abut 500 pairs of shoes to the entire student body of a local elementary school this week and moving about 1000 pairs of shoes convinced me that using it is important to delaying losing it. Carry on!
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Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2024 14:49:40 GMT -5
I'm really unsure as to what this specimen is. It was reported to have been smelted and given to a friend who provided roadside assistance to the gifter. It was reportely poured in a heart shape and apparently has been sliced in half to expose a myriad of crystall inside. It is spectacularly colorful in direct sunlight and when moved relative to a light source. My read is that berylium is toxic to handle and breath and thus I'm unsure why anyone would make a decorative piece of it. It is dense, primarily gold in color similar to pyrite, and going to remain wrapped in plastic until I find out more about it. 20240327_100904 by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr
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Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2024 14:20:14 GMT -5
I'm curious as to whether anyone has seen this model of machine before and has an idea of its age. The saw and polishing pad are both 6". It is a direct drive with a relatively robust case and saw table. It runs quietly and I'm looking at whether an extension on the side hood would allow a diamond wheel. 20240402_120609 by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr Covington trim saw by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr
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Post by Peruano on Mar 31, 2024 11:26:05 GMT -5
Welcome. Its good to ask about the sensitivities of names but to my knowledge no protest has been lodged against using Apache Tears as a name. We certainly can understand that sad things were done to Apaches and other native Americans. It can be handled in the minisonic, but as suspected it would be best with other softish rocks. Do you have any travertine, other obsidian, or beach glass? Are you near Albuquerque where apache tears material is plentiful to help make up an adquate load. Some cushioning is appropriate; you don't want to bang them to hard. If at first you dont succeed, try again.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 31, 2024 7:33:28 GMT -5
Hi guys, I'm about to build a basic lapidary drop saw with either the 16" or 18" mk 303. Mainly to cut rocks in half to create suiseki or viewing stones. The stones in NZ are pretty hard. Grossular garnet, argillite, nephrite...Mohs of around 6.5 to 7ish. I've been offered a quality industrial 1450 rpm motor at a good price. My question is will this motor work for my purpose or would I be better off waiting for a 1750 rpm? I can source different wheel sizes for the belt I'm assuming...thanks for your help guys F you go to the mk diamond website they have subtopic on speed recommendations for various sizes of blades.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 13, 2024 12:54:57 GMT -5
A lapidary arbor with two expando wheels would be just as cheap as a flat lap and much more utilitarian. Sic belts are cheap and even aluminum oxide and diamond belts are within reason as you want to go to finer finishes. Used (opportunistic scores) are much preferred price wise and to a certain extent offer greater variety. You can hand cut with a 6 - 10" saw but if you can find a small slab saw you will have so much more control and versatility. Good luck in assembling the equipment you need.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 4, 2024 8:55:44 GMT -5
Now change your oil that you cut those slabs in. Or keep cutting the same stuff.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2024 21:04:20 GMT -5
Cutting corners off of cubes would best be accomplished with a less than thin blade ( to avoid flexing the blade when addressing a less than square face). Buy a moderate or economy blade, not a super thin one. Most blades will cut fast but they will last longest if you goslow and easy instead of pushing hard.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2024 7:19:23 GMT -5
Yes, it looks like an HP. My advice would be to NOT cut by hand with that blade. Those slots could rip human tissue. They are usually only on big blades that use vices. Tile folks can get by probably because they don't cut as closely as most lapidarys. The underside of the saw table may have a model number indicating saw size. Enjoy, but I would buy anew blade.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 29, 2024 10:47:55 GMT -5
The verbage below was copied from the instructions for the Raytech 10" saw. The part about extra deep coolant is for someone abusing blades.
Filling the Saw To determine the correct amount of coolant to add, simply pour the coolant slowly onto the saw table while the saw is running. The correct fill level has been reached when a steady stream flies off the blade and hits the table in front of the blade. When making deeper cuts with the thin blades, a much deeper immersion up to about 1-1/2” will reduce the blade distortion from heat and greatly improve the quality of the cuts and the blade life. On start-up, the deep immersion will cause the blade to throw an excess of oil, but this effect will disappear when the blade is up to speed
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Post by Peruano on Jan 28, 2024 11:12:45 GMT -5
I strongly suspect that you had way too much water in the tank causing it to throw too much water. Consider the rule of adding water while the saw is running and just enough to have the blade throw a minimal line of coolant in front of the blade. If it goes to the vertical splash guard at the front of the saw, its too much; if it goes to the floor its too much. You can add a bit of flashing so water coming off of the botttom of the saw table, runs bu and not into the slot at the back of the saw, but controling water amount in the tank is much easier. Your results are common when folks are first learning the characteristics of saws.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 24, 2024 9:34:26 GMT -5
There is some heavy philosophy in this.
"At the end of the day it's nice to have a hunk of something" "First you get the agate; then the rock gets you."
Great snapshot of rock folks
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Post by Peruano on Jan 15, 2024 15:07:07 GMT -5
Courtship for roadrunners tends to start in mid February but surprisingly we had a pair come around begging for food together today, no real courtship displayed but I'm guessing it will be tomorrow. Temps are freezing at night and 50 degrees on the patio today at 13:00.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 12, 2024 13:47:39 GMT -5
For Sale – Vintage Highland Park Combo Machine $500 10” saw and multi-wheel cabachon polishing machine – Model B 12 This machine was received after it had been completely disassembled for cleaning and prepared for painting. This is a project requiring assembly; it would have had to be disassembled install polishing wheels and to move it anyway. I have positioned components to facilitate picturing the machine and to illustrate all components. The machine has separate motors and relay controls for the 10” trim saw (with vice) and the cab machine. Motors are in enclosed cabinet which has additional storage. It will require all polishing wheels to be replaced. A new bearing/arbor is furnished for the saw. Also provided are two aluminum polishing discs and the appropriate hood for them to be mounted on the right end of the machine. Bearings of main shaft appear to be good but have not been tested beyond being rolled by hand. Paint in aerosol cans (original HP colors) is included. I use a nearly identical machine in my workshop daily, and will demonstrate it to you upon request; I have 3 wheels in the main part of the arbor shaft and two more (one on each end) for a total of 5 wheels in addition to the saw. $500 or ?? Local pickup in Albuquerque, NM only. Questions or requests for more photos should be via PM to peruano here at RTH or rababikes@cs.com
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Post by Peruano on Jan 12, 2024 12:44:03 GMT -5
Great Western Lapidary Machine - $500 Vintage Cabochon Arbor and Polishing Unit. This heavy steel unit (made of 5/16 steel) is versatile in having easy access to multiple drive pulleys for speed regulation on one end and open access to shaft and wheels on the other for option of changing wheels or using an expando for sanding belts (diamond or silicon carbide). It has an uncrowded work area with two quality hard diamond wheels (80 and 220 grit) in good condition and 3 serviceable nova wheels (280, 600, 1200). The 220 is the textured design and in like new condition. The 80 is used and in excellent condition. Option for LED work light; has existing valves, irrigation water supply from top/back and central drain features. Hinged motor mount on back of machine (motor not included). The threaded vertical polishing plate has leather suitable for zam (chrome oxide polish). $500 for unit with diamond wheels shown and on plywood base for installation on your work bench; or $300 without wheels. This company made quality arbors and saws in Chula Vista, California. Extremely easy to service. Local Pickup Only or other creative delivery options not involving UPS or stamps. Great opportunity for you to ask your Uncle Louie to pickup this machine in Albuquerque on his way to or from Quartzite or other parts in the SW. Creative timing or approaches for such pickup will be considered. Additional pictures or answers to question should be requested via below. It would be great for this machine to go to someone in the RTH community. Tom (aka Peruano on the RTH) or rababikes@cs.com
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