hoolligan1938
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2022
Posts: 253
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Post by hoolligan1938 on Apr 2, 2023 15:32:36 GMT -5
I've searched the forum over and over with no luck on this subject. I've used Starbond CA glue, thin formula, to fill some hairline cracks in rocks before preforming. I've also used the same thing, only medium thickness, to fill some pits. Now I need to know the next steps to take to finish the rock. Normally, on bare rock, no CA, I start with 80 grit in a rotary tumbler to rough shape the preform. Then I use a flat lap and diamond discs from 180 grit to 320 grit to smooth the shapes. From there I use a Lot-O vibe with 500 and 1000 grit AO to prepolish. From there I use the Final polish of AO for the finish. Can this procedure work the same for rocks coated with the Starbond CA? Do I just put the rocks and preforms that are coated in the tumbler or do I have to grind off all the CA? I've never done this before so I need all the info and help, and recommendations that I can get. I've tried the table top epoxy and Art Resin and both came off in the tumbling. That's why I deceided to try the cyano. acr. Starbond that was mentioned in several of the postings here. They were old postings, about 2007 and the early teens. None of those postings really made it clear as to the actual steps needed to the finish rock after it has been coated with CA.
Any help or referencing will be very much appreciated. I just have a few rock and a few slabs coated now with the Starbond. Need to finish them though.
Thanks for any help passed along,
Jim
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Post by chris1956 on Apr 2, 2023 20:14:25 GMT -5
If you have time, I would suggest doing some experimenting. I am not an expert but here is what I have learned after a couple experiences.
I have used Hot Stuff CA and looks like it is similar product with three different thicknesses for thin, medium and wide cracks. I have only used it on Christmas tree ornaments that had cracks so nothing fancy or expensive. Typically I start with 220 grit in the Lot-O for the ornaments (may be different for you). The first time I used it, I used the thick stuff for a wide crack. It did not come off with the 220 grit in the Lot-O. Left a nice looking weld mark across the ornament. Wondering what to do, I went to the cab machine and ground it off. I think I started with fine grit wheels and just tried coarser ones until it was gone. Then went back and put it in the 220 grit in Lot-O. Turned out great.
A couple days ago I used the thin CA for a crack in an ornament and then put it in the Lot-O with 220 grit. After 2 days the glue was completely gone from the surface. In 500 AO now. No reason to think it won't turn out well. So assuming the Starbond CA thin is about the same, I am thinking it will come off in the 220 grit in the Lot-O.
Hope this helps. Sure someone has been through this more than I have.
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hoolligan1938
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2022
Posts: 253
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Post by hoolligan1938 on Apr 3, 2023 10:09:33 GMT -5
Thanks, Chris. I will try the 220 first as you suggested and see how they turn out. What I have is not expensive rock. So a trial and error is fine. I just didn't know what was the best way to start out, grind it all off and then polish or to put the coated rocks in the tumbler, with all the CA still coating the rock.
Jim
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Post by manofglass on Apr 3, 2023 10:22:46 GMT -5
I just use 330 epoxy let it set 3 days Then cab it worked with Turkish opal I coated it after the first cut then coated the back of the slab let each side dry 3 days before grinding I gave that cab to miket You can get 330 epoxy at Amazon.com or www.kingsleynorth.com |
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