rocknewb101
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jul 28, 2023 7:36:41 GMT -5
Hello! So I've done some research on light boxes and basically have mine set up, but I don't think I have the right lights and have already ordered two different kinds that aren't working well for me (one LED and one desk lamp with incandescent bulb - too yellow). Does anyone have a suggestion for what type of light I need to use and what wattage? I thought fluorescent, but I can't seem to find any lamps that aren't super expensive so i looked at LED's, but the last one I ordered was only 3.5 watt (even though the website indicted up to 40). Just trying to avoid overspending on lights and wondered if anyone who had their own DIY light box might be willing to share what they use. TIA!
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markymark
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Post by markymark on Jul 28, 2023 8:06:45 GMT -5
Many bulbs will work just make sure it's at least 5000 kelvin, 5000 is more like daytime sun, anything below will be yellow
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RWA3006
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Post by RWA3006 on Jul 28, 2023 11:39:32 GMT -5
I've never built a photography light box but I'm familiar with LED's. The LED manufacturers are notoriously misleading about their products. Very frequently they say things like 40w or 40w equivalent, when what they really mean is 3.5w that puts out as much light as a 40w incandescent. They're comparing apples to oranges and it confuses the customer but they do it on purpose. Are you using any diffusion? I think that might help spread and soften whatever light you do use. I'm building a light screen right now, at least that's what I'm calling it. It's going to be a 150w LED board wired to a battery, shooting a strong 8" x 11" beam of light up through a tray with window screen in the bottom. My plan is to scoop up some rocks, dump them into the screen tray, turn on the light, and the translucent stones should pop right out in theory. I plan to use it at beaches and other places I'd go for agates or whatnot. I ordered a few different sheets of plexiglass with various shades of transparency. I think one lets through 80% light, 50%, 30%, etc. I'm hoping to find a balance where it's enough light to make chalcedony glow without blinding me as I look into it. I'm using HLG quantum boards, can google that if you want a big, strong, spread out array of LED's. In general with LED there's so many options it's hard to make a recommendation because pretty much any design is possible. All depends on what you're going for. Do you just need 1 light point or could even shoot light in from all 5-6 sides. And make sure you get the "daylight" color spectrum for white light, I think it's 5000 kelvin. Also pay attention to the "color rendering index" or cri rating. It goes up to 100 (%)and measures if objects illuminated by the LED represent their true colors as under sunlight. When you get your light screen built I hope you share it with us. I'd like to see how it turns out.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jul 28, 2023 11:39:53 GMT -5
The problem with fluorescent lights is their output fluctuates in frequency and brightness, not visible to the human eye, but multiple photos can look entirely different in colors and brightness with no change in camera or subject. Low cost LED lights appear to be about the same. Indirect or through a white fabric or diffuser helps. I am working on building something from an old enlarger, but so far my cardboard box light box is what I'm using.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jul 28, 2023 12:52:01 GMT -5
Many bulbs will work just make sure it's at least 5000 kelvin, 5000 is more like daytime sun, anything below will be yellow Good to know! Thank you - I will keep that in mind I've never built a photography light box but I'm familiar with LED's. The LED manufacturers are notoriously misleading about their products. Very frequently they say things like 40w or 40w equivalent, when what they really mean is 3.5w that puts out as much light as a 40w incandescent. They're comparing apples to oranges and it confuses the customer but they do it on purpose. Are you using any diffusion? I think that might help spread and soften whatever light you do use. I'm building a light screen right now, at least that's what I'm calling it. It's going to be a 150w LED board wired to a battery, shooting a strong 8" x 11" beam of light up through a tray with window screen in the bottom. My plan is to scoop up some rocks, dump them into the screen tray, turn on the light, and the translucent stones should pop right out in theory. I plan to use it at beaches and other places I'd go for agates or whatnot. I ordered a few different sheets of plexiglass with various shades of transparency. I think one lets through 80% light, 50%, 30%, etc. I'm hoping to find a balance where it's enough light to make chalcedony glow without blinding me as I look into it. I'm using HLG quantum boards, can google that if you want a big, strong, spread out array of LED's. In general with LED there's so many options it's hard to make a recommendation because pretty much any design is possible. All depends on what you're going for. Do you just need 1 light point or could even shoot light in from all 5-6 sides. And make sure you get the "daylight" color spectrum for white light, I think it's 5000 kelvin. Also pay attention to the "color rendering index" or cri rating. It goes up to 100 (%)and measures if objects illuminated by the LED represent their true colors as under sunlight. Oh wow - your box will be way more technical than mine lol - I am diffusing - I got a sheer white material and draped it over my box - mine is literally a box with sides cut out, draped with the sheer material and a white poster board paper inside...I found the DIY online... I've never built a photography light box but I'm familiar with LED's. The LED manufacturers are notoriously misleading about their products. Very frequently they say things like 40w or 40w equivalent, when what they really mean is 3.5w that puts out as much light as a 40w incandescent. They're comparing apples to oranges and it confuses the customer but they do it on purpose. Are you using any diffusion? I think that might help spread and soften whatever light you do use. I'm building a light screen right now, at least that's what I'm calling it. It's going to be a 150w LED board wired to a battery, shooting a strong 8" x 11" beam of light up through a tray with window screen in the bottom. My plan is to scoop up some rocks, dump them into the screen tray, turn on the light, and the translucent stones should pop right out in theory. I plan to use it at beaches and other places I'd go for agates or whatnot. I ordered a few different sheets of plexiglass with various shades of transparency. I think one lets through 80% light, 50%, 30%, etc. I'm hoping to find a balance where it's enough light to make chalcedony glow without blinding me as I look into it. I'm using HLG quantum boards, can google that if you want a big, strong, spread out array of LED's. In general with LED there's so many options it's hard to make a recommendation because pretty much any design is possible. All depends on what you're going for. Do you just need 1 light point or could even shoot light in from all 5-6 sides. And make sure you get the "daylight" color spectrum for white light, I think it's 5000 kelvin. Also pay attention to the "color rendering index" or cri rating. It goes up to 100 (%)and measures if objects illuminated by the LED represent their true colors as under sunlight. When you get your light screen built I hope you share it with us. I'd like to see how it turns out. I will share for sure!! The problem with fluorescent lights is their output fluctuates in frequency and brightness, not visible to the human eye, but multiple photos can look entirely different in colors and brightness with no change in camera or subject. Low cost LED lights appear to be about the same. Indirect or through a white fabric or diffuser helps. I am working on building something from an old enlarger, but so far my cardboard box light box is what I'm using. Oh I had no idea!! I do have a sheer piece of material draped over the holes in the box - but I only did the sides - I may need to do the top too. Mine is made out of a cardboard box - what lights are you using? Do you mind sharing?
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Post by liveoak on Jul 29, 2023 6:20:56 GMT -5
I'm sure you know this, but I had to throw out the simplistic idea- you can buy one that comes with lights built in. My older one had 2 lights to shine through the fabric sides, the new ones have it built in. Amazon
I won't lie, it's still a trial to get a perfect shot every time the first time, BUT it gives you variables to play with AND they collapse for storage.
Patty
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gemfeller
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Post by gemfeller on Jul 29, 2023 14:51:18 GMT -5
liveoak Your Amazon link doesn't work for me. I'm interested in seeing the product. I've tried 3 different versions of the little commercial boxes but usually go back to my Rube Goldberg home-made cardboard box with diffused 5000 K incandescent lights. The reason: the bright little spot LED's on the commercial boxes I've tried can't be diffused enough to prevent annoying little spots of glaring light on the subject stone. I'm shooting both cabs and faceted stones and it's hard to find a happy medium. While the incandescent lights leave some glare, careful positioning of the stones can minimize it.
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Post by liveoak on Jul 29, 2023 17:42:00 GMT -5
@iveoak Your Amazon link doesn't work for me. I'm interested in seeing the product. I've tried 3 different versions of the little commercial boxes but usually go back to my Rube Goldberg home-made cardboard box with diffused 5000 K incandescent lights. The reason: the bright little spot LED's on the commercial boxes I've tried can't be diffused enough to prevent annoying little spots of glaring light on the subject stone. I'm shooting both cabs and faceted stones and it's hard to find a happy medium. While the incandescent lights leave some glare, careful positioning of the stones can minimize it. I'll put the direct links - they look busy, but they should work, even if you have to cut & paste
The one I purchased was pretty cheap & similar to this one, with dim-able lights AND different color tones (3000K to 6500K) :
I also purchased a light panel - the one I have is just like this one, but was way cheaper last year when I purchased it.
In both cases there are LOTS of ones out there it depends on how much $ you want to spend.
I think the different color tones & dim-able are important. For me anyway, it doesn't seem like it's a one setting for everything kind of thing.
My solution on the reflection you can get from above, is to take one of the white backdrops & suspend it inside the tent, above what I'm photographing to stop the glare.
That seems to work, some of the time.
You can spend a bunch of time figuring out the right light color & brightness, etc.
But usually if I play with different settings, I can get it.
Quite honestly, if I think about it ahead of time, I try to take my photos in the early morning outside - no tent or box needed.
But that's not always practical, which is why I've always had a tent as a backup.
Patty
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gemfeller
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Post by gemfeller on Jul 29, 2023 18:58:05 GMT -5
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Post by liveoak on Jul 29, 2023 19:48:46 GMT -5
My light box actually has a round center LED. Not sure if the results are any different than the double. But either way doing some kind of diffuser above helps, in my experience.
My old light box had 2 individual lights that you set up outside the sides pointing in & I think I might have gotten better results, although it was more of a bulky set up to store.
Patty
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
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Post by rocknewb101 on Jul 31, 2023 6:34:47 GMT -5
I'm sure you know this, but I had to throw out the simplistic idea- you can buy one that comes with lights built in. My older one had 2 lights to shine through the fabric sides, the new ones have it built in. Amazon
I won't lie, it's still a trial to get a perfect shot every time the first time, BUT it gives you variables to play with AND they collapse for storage.
Patty
What! How did I not know this!! Thank you, Patty. I did just order a new lamp and am going to cut a hole in the top too (top and each side). However, if I'm still experiencing yellow, or dim light then I may just go this route - they are cheap enough
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