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Post by hermatite on Jan 3, 2004 17:53:02 GMT -5
Khave several faceted garnets that were given to me. I have no way of telling how big they are...is it correct just to measure across the stone in mm from one side to the other across the center? I'd like to set them somehow but have no idea how big of a setting I'd need. I don't know the correct term for the cut...they're not flat on the bottom but cut in that same tapered way as a diamond in solitaire ring...does that make sense? I know a regular bezel wouldn't be appropriate but I'm not sure what else to do with them. As well I'm becoming more intrigued about cabbing stones (that'll teach me to spend a lazy day looking through my rio grande catalogue). Is it worth paying someone to cab just any old stones or should I just use gemquality stones for this? I'm not anxious to spend a lot of money on a cabbing machine for something that I'm pretty sure I'd only use a few times. I was never even a fan of cabuchons until I realized that I could put them into jewelry of my own creation.
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Post by docone31 on Jan 3, 2004 21:43:09 GMT -5
Hermatite. Measure the girdle. It will either be round, brilliant, or simplified brilliant, or a square shape, or oval, or a combination thereof. The measurement will be in millimeters. For a square emerald cut, it might be 4mmX4mm. Variations will be 4mmX7mm, etc. It sounds like you have what is called a Portuguese cut. This is an expensive cut for the carat as it has more facets. The depth of the culet is another issue. The depth of the culet will determine the height of the girdle cut in the setting. For setting cabachons, get ones large enough to work with. It is a poor idea to start out small. I teach with 12X14mm cabachons. Get some bezel strip. I use pure silver for this, .020. Serrated is easier to work with than plain. Form the bezel around the stone. Cut the strip between the "teeth". Hard solder together. I form the bezel, then flatten the joint. I solder from the outside. Take a piece of plexiglass, lexan, or formica. Glue a piece of 220 wet or dry sand paper to it. Wet the paper and sand the setting flat and square. Solder this to a "plate" of .025 sterling sheet stock slightly larger than the total finished piece. When all the trappings are soldered in place, pickle, clean, and set the cab. I use business cards instead of sawdust to set the setting height. You can also solder .032 square sterling wire to the inside of the setting for the height for an open back setting. I do not think you are ready for that yet so practice on the round bezel and plate. If you make a mistake and melt the setting, it can be melted into a ball and used for decoration on the next setting. I use only hard solder, alcohol and borax for total flux, and self pickling flux for the working. You can do it.
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Post by hermatite on Jan 4, 2004 11:32:02 GMT -5
Thanks doc! I knew you'd come through for me. In your opinion...or anyone's, for that matter, is it worth it to pay someone to cab ordinary stones? or should I just set them into bezels (as described) just the way they are?
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SirRoxalot
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 790
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Post by SirRoxalot on Jan 4, 2004 13:21:17 GMT -5
Nobody can tell you whether it makes sense to pay somebody to cab "ordinary" stones. If the stone has sentimental value, or you just like it, and you have the money, go for it.
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Post by docone31 on Jan 4, 2004 18:36:24 GMT -5
If you like it, it is worth it. How much? That depends on your personal involvement. A simple 50$ Grinding wheel set up is almost all you need. That and a cup of water and a sanding disc. There are tutorials on the internet on cabbing using common equipment. People on Ebay will cut your stones if you contact them and ship to them. A lapidary club is another way to go. You will learn as you watch others. The journey has just begun. It will last a lifetime.
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Post by Noosh9057 on Jan 4, 2004 22:11:34 GMT -5
Is there someone that will drill a hole in a rock if I sent it to them? How much would it cost. If I wanted to learn how to dill what type of Equipment would I need and how hard is it to do?
Thanks
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Post by docone31 on Jan 4, 2004 22:17:07 GMT -5
Noosh. To drill a stone, take a piece of copper wire. Work harden it with pliers and keep it straight. Make a dam out of clay where the hole is going. Add 80 grit corundum, and water to make gooey. Use slow speed and drill with the piece of copper. It will take time but it will work. The copper recharges itself with the grit and grinds an hole. That is the way of the old timers.
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Post by sandsman1 on Jan 4, 2004 22:40:00 GMT -5
i was looking for what you where saying about a normal grinder doin the job also dident find it yet but i did find a site that had step by step for faceting looked cool but im not ready for that yet maybe someone here is thanks for the info john-------http://www.theimage.com/faceting/index.htm if any body sees what docone31 was talking about please post it so i can check it out thanks again
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Post by docone31 on Jan 4, 2004 22:53:46 GMT -5
A very well done tutorial on faceting. I am going to keep it on my favourites. Essentially I tumble the stones to find where the faults are before I facet. The dopping techniques work for cabachon cutting also. The grinding wheel shapes the stone instead of the bridge, table, and lap.
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Post by Noosh9057 on Jan 5, 2004 10:34:29 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. what kind of Equipment would I need if I wanted to drill a hole the modern way?
Thanks
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Post by docone31 on Jan 5, 2004 10:48:19 GMT -5
Unless you use a laser, that is pretty much the modern way. The only tough part is starting the hole. With a laser, it is pretty clean and quick. I do not do it this way as the cost is prohibitive. It is pretty quick with the wire. I use a draw plate to work harden the wire for drilling.
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Post by Noosh9057 on Jan 5, 2004 11:25:28 GMT -5
Well thanks for the info. I am not shere what you meen. I would like to try it. How do you put the wire on the drill?
Thanks
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Post by docone31 on Jan 5, 2004 12:10:11 GMT -5
Most drills come with a Jacobs chuck. The collet type will be harder to use. Harden the wire and straighten, put into the chuck, tighten and drill as you would a drill bit. With wire, there is a pressure issue. You will have to drill constantly, lightly, and use the abrasive grit to be the drill twist. As you drill, pick up the wire and let more grit enter the hole. The copper picks up the grit and it acts as the boring medium. The longer the wire, the more likely it will become out of line.
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Post by Noosh9057 on Jan 5, 2004 12:24:20 GMT -5
Ok great!!!!! How do you harden the wire? I cant wait to try drilling!!!!!!
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Post by docone31 on Jan 5, 2004 12:44:17 GMT -5
Annealing is when an item is heated to soften. Work hardening is when an item is bent or drawn over and over. Forging is another way of work hardening. The object is to induce either stelletite layers, or amontite layers near the surface. With copper wire, I use a draw plate to draw the wire to the dia. I want. When it is the dia. it has been work hardened. Draw plates can be obtained from Rio Grande. FDJtool.com, etc. Most holes drilled will be 20 guage, or .032. Start with 16 guage romex, strip off the insulation, and draw down to .032 without annealing.
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Post by Noosh9057 on Jan 5, 2004 18:42:24 GMT -5
Ok thanks. I am going to look at the draw plate. I think I understand.
Thanks
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Post by Noosh9057 on Jan 5, 2004 18:44:46 GMT -5
Ok thanks. I am going to look at the draw plate. I think I understand.
Thanks
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