garry
starting to shine!
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every moment of it!
Member since September 2007
Posts: 29
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Post by garry on Sept 26, 2008 19:26:23 GMT -5
I have been reading this thread and have been inspired to make me some equipment. A flat lap or other grinding / shaping / polishing machine. I have been able to get my hands on some motors out of swamp coolers. (units are being replaced with refrigerated air units). My question is this: (since I don't speak "electrical" ;D) How do I find things like horsepower and rpms? I know these motors new start at about $60 and go up to $150 or more. One is an A. O. Smith brand if that helps any. What kind of equipment are these best suited for? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance. Garry - Poor but inspired cabbing want to be
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 26, 2008 19:46:51 GMT -5
I worked on coolers for years. You don't say what size. Coolers run from small residential units to commercial size you can stand in. Motors vary also. Typical residential are two speed, 115 volt and would work pretty well for cab units, flat laps and other low torque uses. Many have the motor mount built into the cooler frame work so a "mount cradle" would be necessary. You could probably buy one at a motor repair shop if needed. Most lapidary cab units, laps and trim saws will run fine with a 1/3 hp 1725 rpm motor. Cooler motors usually have the specs on the motor end but may not be readable due to the moisture rich environment they operate under.
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Post by akansan on Sept 26, 2008 19:53:26 GMT -5
Most of the swamp coolers down there on houses are 1/3hp 1725 rpm. In fact, that's what runs my main cabbing machine - a swamp cooler motor pulled out of a unit in Hobbs, NM.
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garry
starting to shine!
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every moment of it!
Member since September 2007
Posts: 29
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Post by garry on Sept 27, 2008 16:52:28 GMT -5
Thanks for the info and quick response! The one motor I have gotten home has a label on the side with all the "electric speak" on it. I left my digital camera at one of our job sites ! When I track it down, I'll post a pic of it and maybe someone can translate it for me. Meanwhile I'm going to try to get some rough idea(s) (plans) formulated so I can start to begin to build. Thanks again! Garry
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docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 693
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Post by docharber on Oct 9, 2008 0:29:39 GMT -5
Hi folks- I'm new to the board and in the same situation with selecting motors for my equipment. I've noticed most cabbing units and larger saws, etc. use a 1725 RPM 1/3 horsepower motor or near equivalent and I have found new motors at are Habitat for Humanity stores and through appliance repair stores. Old dishwasher, dryer, and other appliance motors should be adaptable. The Habitat store sold these for $20.00 new in the box. They may take a little effort to mount but you can get pulleys, belts and cords at any hardware store. good luck!
Mark (Docharber)
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 14, 2008 8:38:07 GMT -5
Garry, you left us hanging. The info on motors tell you more than you need. The long number on top tells you everything but not necessary like a VIN # on a vehicle. Your main concern is: hp (horse power- may have two if two speed motor, highest is high speed) v (voltage, should say 115V) rpm (motor speed, should say1725, may say 1725/1025 if two speed motor) Fr (frame size, likely to be 39, 48 or 56. Tells you physical size of motor, mounting, and shaft size. Most residential cooler motors will be 1/2" and if the mount was built in on the cooler you can buy a motor mount based on this frame size) A (motor full load amps - you won't be able to check current draw without an ammeter but if overloaded motor will run hot and possibly shut off or burn up) SFA (service factor amps usually expressed as a fraction and gives you the allowable over current allowed. Again, not important without a meter) Therm Prot (Thermally protected. You definitely want this. Motor has a safety switch to stop it in overcurrent condition. Older and non-thermally protected motors relied on the circuit breaker or external fuses to protect motor. That results in smoked /damaged motor windings or even a fire. If you got the motor with a pulley it is probably 1.5" or 2". Using same size on the unit will give you 1725rpm. Using a larger pulley will give you slower speed. If you are overloaded, derease motor pully size or increase the driven pulley size. There are speed charts available on most manufacturer's sites (Covington, Diamond Pacific, etc.) If ou install a cord make sure it hs a ground wire and attach it to green screw on motor.
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garry
starting to shine!
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every moment of it!
Member since September 2007
Posts: 29
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Post by garry on Oct 15, 2008 19:47:19 GMT -5
Sorry for the delay in responding. Been out of town for a few days and working allot! The one motor is a two speed 1725/1140 and is thermal protected. I was able to get the mounting frame along with the pulley still attached. I was researching here and read that if you can get the bearings and shaft also you are pretty well home free. I have the bearings out and all the electrical (cords, plugs, and controller), just need to finish removing the shaft. I will also be retrieving the larger pulley from the blower cage. New Question(s): the shaft is about 24 in. and, I think, 3/4 in diameter, how many wheels can be put on it? i.e. how far apart do they need to be? I would like to have a trim saw on one end also. Does this affect how many or the type of wheels I can use. I am strongly leaning toward the expanding kind. Currently I have two coolers to "scavenge", so if I need to build two machines, so be it! Thanks for any help advice. With a little more info I can do some shopping and decide for sure on what and how many to buy and get some real plans. And then get building! Garry
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Oct 15, 2008 21:10:56 GMT -5
Two fingers or 1" apart, depends on the size of the cabs you are planning on working with.
How about some pix of your "scavenged' parts?
Dr Joe
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