thomtap
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since December 2007
Posts: 237
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PMC
Oct 19, 2008 19:43:27 GMT -5
Post by thomtap on Oct 19, 2008 19:43:27 GMT -5
I know this is the wrapping forum, but... has anyone here tried the Precious Metal Clay with your stones? Can you get a good smoothe shine with the stuff?
Thom Tapp
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PMC
Oct 19, 2008 20:43:38 GMT -5
Post by Jurrasic Jonje on Oct 19, 2008 20:43:38 GMT -5
The only problem I see with pmc is the temps that are needed to use it. If anyone has set a cab using pmc I would love to see it and see how you did it.
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PMC
Oct 19, 2008 21:39:58 GMT -5
Post by Tweetiepy on Oct 19, 2008 21:39:58 GMT -5
Could you fire up the clay then glue in the cabs? Or prong them in after firing? how flexible is that stuff once it,s fired? Sorry if this is more questions than answers...
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PMC
Oct 20, 2008 1:59:59 GMT -5
Post by deb193redux on Oct 20, 2008 1:59:59 GMT -5
Fairly brittle.
I have a friend that makes bezels with PMC and bezel wire, but you need to grind the cab to fit afterwards.
She also makes PMC textured silver or gold drapes that kind of hang over the stone on one side. Top drilled pin holds the drape and mounts the stone.
There is a clay that fires at only 650, which might let you work with stones that do not get brittle with heat treating. Maybe some slags.
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PMC
Oct 20, 2008 7:54:51 GMT -5
Post by akansan on Oct 20, 2008 7:54:51 GMT -5
I had heard that you if you made a fine silver bezel and set it in the clay before firing, you could actually create a setting for an already made cab. Then you'd just have to insert the same way you would for 'smithed setting - with a bezel rocker and burnisher. The shrinkage always worried me, which is one of the reasons I decided to not try it.
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PMC
Oct 20, 2008 21:46:53 GMT -5
Post by docone31 on Oct 20, 2008 21:46:53 GMT -5
PMC is brittle to an extent. I anneal it after "making" it. I do not really like it. I prefer making waxes and casting to PMC. At any rate. After annealing it, you will have to burr the stone into the setting. I have not noticed tremendous shrinkage in regards to the setting, however I did have to burr out a bunch to make it work. I had planned on it being that way. I used a 60* reverse cone. I made a dedicated burr by dulling it on a stone on the bottom. I spun it in my handpiece to wear off the teeth on the bottom. This makes it only cut on the side. I go around the setting to undercut so I can then use an hammer handpiece to draw down the setting to the stone. I then file the tool marks out, and grave the edge next to the stone. I really do not like PMC. It looks like Hippie Hempster Jewelery when it is done. Now that is just me, some like it that way. I have also plasma welded the walls down to the stone. Real good around Flourite which is fragile and shatters at the hammer points. Where as a Laser will darken the Flourite at the weld points, Plasma Welding does not. I also get less heat that way on the stones. I have actually been able to retip prongs on Opals with my Plasma Welder. Makes me nervous, but it works. So, yes, you do have to work the setting to set the stone. That will have to be worked into the design. Taking that under consideration, it can look real good. I have tried presetting bezel stock into the PMC, then firing it. The only way I have had it work so I like it, is to predrill the lower portion of the bezel. I use a #67 wire drill, and drill every MM. I have not found a way to make the bezel "grow" from the setting though. Maybe I have not done enough. I don't know. I spend most of my time these days doing prong sets, and flush setting 1pts. Ah, for the old days, when it was still fun.
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PMC
Oct 21, 2008 22:39:45 GMT -5
Post by Tony W on Oct 21, 2008 22:39:45 GMT -5
It has a steep learning curve. It dries fast and is very brittle after it dries. YOu can reconstitute it with water, but it is slippery then, and comes off on your hands. It sticks to rollers unless you oil them... and then it is slippery again. Once I finally got a ring made and fired it it is pretty hard, but I still managed to break it twice.. but I was able to add some clay, refire it and go on. It does burnish up nicely and takes a great shine, as silver does, even after blasting with the torch a few times. And figuring out shrinkage takes trial and error. It just cost so much for so little it is hard to get enough practice with it to get good... at least for me. I figure I can get two rings for 30 plus bucks after shipping. I'm trying casting and wax now, and getting ready to start with sheet, bezel wire and solder. At least I can melt my mistakes down and try again with them. Tony
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nancyf
has rocks in the head
Wired Cowgirl
Member since April 2007
Posts: 629
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PMC
Oct 29, 2008 9:37:33 GMT -5
Post by nancyf on Oct 29, 2008 9:37:33 GMT -5
I've used it a little...I like it, but it IS expensive to learn. Tip: use Saran Wrap to knead the suff. It won't stick to your fingers. I washed a lot of silver down the sink and I cringe when I think about that. (so I don't) ;D I didn't read my book well enough to see the above tip. ack!
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