docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 693
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Post by docharber on Jan 23, 2009 12:18:31 GMT -5
I can't find the original post to give proper credit, but I remarked I had seen and bought some "Work Force" saw blades on ebay for a terrific price. I shold have known better, and was disappointed. They are nearly impossible to install, and they have a thick edge about 5/64" thick. they are durable enough, I think, but vibrate excessively, leave a rough cut, and even shatter material. They would be OK for concrete or brick, but NOT for Lapidfary use. AVOID THESE. I know I will. These are advertised as "WorkForce" but the logo is different. the starting bid was $14.99 for three and the vendeor had other blades listed as well.
M. Harber
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jan 23, 2009 12:57:26 GMT -5
docharber,
Fast learner, any blade from the China shelf are for the most part meant for rough cutting and concrete use. Pay`s to use the best in lapidary machines & tool`s, save`s a lot of time and the workmanship shines brighter.
at our clubs shop we use the Sintered blades and some of them were peeling back and large suctions of the circumferences were breaking loose.
For the cheap reason, it hard to teach others to slow down, Rim-notch are better and out last all others. Though for home use get the best and enjoy letting the blade do the work..........
Jack
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Post by Tonyterner on Jan 23, 2009 13:47:30 GMT -5
I'm pretty picky about my blades. I've found the MK Hot Dog to be the best by far. They aren't cheap but do last a long time and cut really well. If I'm feeling cheap I'll go with the Husky brand blades but I'm never as happy then.
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docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 693
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Post by docharber on Jan 23, 2009 18:38:19 GMT -5
i have been told by others (maybe you?) the MK 225 Hot DOg blade is as good as the original Work Force bladeThey're $50, though. I found one on eBay recently for $21 and didn't snatch it as I didn't know anything about ti. I need a 7" blade for the Work Force saw and a 6" thin blade for my trim saw. I have priced an MK 301 trim sawe blade, a 303 and a MK 1000. The 301 GemKing is a notched rim blade but requires oil coolant. The others are OK for water but pricey (especially the 303). I have seen the BUTW green blades, the Blazers, etc. and can't decide whart the best deal would be. I'm very hard on blades and reluctant to spend a lot. Maybe my failures are partially due to not knowing what to expect from the blade and buying on the cheap. i guess I don;'t trust myself to not abuse the b;ade. Has anyone used the BUTW blades on ebay? What about UKAM blades- they seem reasonably p[riced for the most part but the text on their website sounds like broken English. I really need to get hold of some good blades and I'm getting frustrated fast. I have already been advised the Prosliced (not sintered) is best avoided.
Mark H.
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Jan 23, 2009 18:43:57 GMT -5
Doc;
Take those MK-Blade`s and run them in RV-pink Anti-Freeze, Tell their scrape metal. Our a Painters canvas.
This coolant is for HAND - FEED only !
Jack
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 23, 2009 20:30:43 GMT -5
The 303 is great, but never cheap in 7" because it is not sold so much in that size. I really like MK225. When I can snag 3 for 49 on ebay I jump. Try not to pay $50 for one. Husky is not bad for WF.
maybe 303 on the trim saw.
also, for the trim saw the rv fluid is good. of course it is water for WF.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,466
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Post by Sabre52 on Jan 23, 2009 20:33:50 GMT -5
Yeah, I've tried those too. Kinda lousy blades all right.....Mel
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docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 693
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Post by docharber on Jan 24, 2009 23:57:45 GMT -5
I appreciate the inputs. I bought an MK 225 tonight after comparing side by side at HD. It was $45 plus tax, totl less than $50. More than I intended, but I think worth it in the long run. It is thinner than the HUsky, and I thought the Husky was a tad thicker along the rim- something I think contributesd to vibration and uneven cutting. I spoke to a very experienced lapidary/silversmith friend in Tennessee today and he also recommends antifreeze. I think the non-toxic stuff- propylene glycol- would be easier to dispose of. And, I ruined a T-shirt this week from the satw spray. not something I would want to inhale. So For the Trim saw, I might conxsider a 301 for $40 on eBay, and use antifreeze, or save up for a 303 or equivalent. Does anybody know about UKAM blades?
Marh H.
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