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Post by Bikerrandy on Mar 26, 2010 19:43:07 GMT -5
I know, practice practice practice...LOL. Words to live by ;D |
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revco
starting to spend too much on rocks
Another Victim Of The Rockcycle
Member since February 2010
Posts: 162
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Post by revco on Mar 27, 2010 23:00:25 GMT -5
Randy, undoubtedly, the camera has a shutter! The question is whether you can control it. Do you have a dial that has various settings, like "P", "T" "Tv" or "A" or Av? If so, the "T" is your shutter time mode, where the camera will pick the aperture based on your shutter speed. "A" is aperture mode where you pick the aperture and the camera picks the shutter speed.
A light box may help, but you could also try simulating that on the cheaps with an adjustable desk lamp (or possibly two) shining through white sheets of paper. The idea is to diffuse the light, so you don't get "hot spots" on the rocks. Try Googling DIY softbox and DIY light tent for some ideas. The shadows from one light could be problematic, therefore it's desirable to have at least two sources of light. It's best to work without overhead lighting in this type of setup, such that the light can be fairly precisely controlled.
A cheap background for small objects that will give you the "infinity" (seamless) look with the right lighting is a simple piece of somewhat heavier craft paper, evenly curved at an angle upward. You can use different colors too and types, although white can be difficult without proper lighting. (Tends to gray if you don't light properly and use a precise exposure)
I haven't played with rock photography much, for some reason, but I have shot plenty of metallic/reflective objects. (e.g. products/cars/etc) One of the biggest keys is controlling the location of your sources of (diffused) light so it looks right on the object. Also, the larger the diffuser, the better it tends to look, in most cases.
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Post by Bikerrandy on Mar 28, 2010 9:22:35 GMT -5
No dials, only buttons. This is the little Kodak M1033. My old digital camera has this dial but I can't find discs for it anywhere. (it's a Sony Mavica). I'm gonna try out your tips on the lighting. I've been experimenting a little, and noticed that with a really dark background, the object (wire wrap) is almost blinding. If I use a light background, the object comes out really dark (I'm guessing because all of the light is being reflected past the object up toward the camera). The best background seems to be a soft color. The best that I've found so far is a large slab of orange calcite. The only thing now is that I gotta work on the issue with the proper lighting. Everything that you said makes perfect sense so I'm gonna go from there and see what happens, starting with the wire wraps that I did yesterday. Thanks!
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revco
starting to spend too much on rocks
Another Victim Of The Rockcycle
Member since February 2010
Posts: 162
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Post by revco on Mar 28, 2010 12:00:06 GMT -5
Yeah, sounds like a basic digital camera that doesn't give you control over the shots. No matter, you should still be able to get decent results if you can control the light well enough. I learned a long time ago that photography isn't necessarily about the gear, but rather how you use it. I'd expect similar results from what you've stated - black will cause what light is reflected to do so more strongly and white will gray (or darken) because more light is reflecting back and your camera adjusts, consequently underexposing the subject for the relatively bright background. You can only really get around that with a proper exposure for the subject, not the background. (e.g. manual mode) An overhead light may help there as well, although that gets tricky unless you have light stands and such. Two lights at 45 degrees from the subject and to the either side of the camera is a good place to start. It will do well to cancel shadows cast by the object. Moving the lights towards or away from the object will reduce or increase intensity, as desired, and may help with getting a proper exposure for the background and subject simultaneously. Using different distances for the lights will allow you to control the shadows. A daylight CFL bulb would probably be best so you don't get orange coloration if your camera's white balance isn't the best. Oh, and you can build a light tent from pieces of paper and binding clips.  If you ever have any photography questions, feel free to PM me. I'm 15 years into the "hobby" and do it semi-pro on the side. I've worked with off camera lighting for a number of years now and have a strong appetite for cheap, DIY gear. |
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Post by Bikerrandy on Mar 28, 2010 14:02:19 GMT -5
If it's cheap, I'm definitely there! ;D Thanks bud
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Post by frane on Mar 28, 2010 20:21:18 GMT -5
Randy, You did it again! Beautiful cabs and wraps! I love the lapis!!!
Fran
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Nov 12, 2024 9:54:37 GMT -5
Nov 12, 2024 9:54:37 GMT -5