NDK
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Post by NDK on May 23, 2010 22:38:31 GMT -5
A friend of mine has an old wood framed (home made?) table saw he wants to give away. I was thinking about it earlier, and was wondering if anyone might think it would be a good donor for parts to build a rock saw? I was over there yesterday and the thought never came to mind so I didn't even look at it...
Thanks in advance. Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on May 23, 2010 22:58:36 GMT -5
If the arbor that the blade is on is a sealed unit, and doesn't have any play or wobble in it, You have a good start towards a saw of about 10" or smaller. Save the arbor, motor and pulleys. You may have to change pulley sizes, to slow the blade down a bit. Unless you use one of the thin blades meant to be run with water. Then you'll want the higher table saw speed to stiffen the blade. Don
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NDK
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Post by NDK on May 24, 2010 20:28:05 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Don. I wouldn't have thought of it needing sealed bearings.
Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on May 24, 2010 21:02:52 GMT -5
Sealed bearings are a must in lapidary saws. The least little bit of saw mud that gets into the bearings will wipe them out very quickly. Same goes for lapidary grinding and polishing equipment. Don
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Post by johnjsgems on May 24, 2010 21:38:05 GMT -5
I'd take a free table saw if it works. I'd use it to cut all the wood projects that seem to relate to this hobby. Then I'd find an old rock saw for cutting rocks. If the table saw is worn out the motor could be used.
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drjo
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Post by drjo on May 24, 2010 22:28:46 GMT -5
Seriously, has anyone seen a power tool newer than 1965 that didn't have sealed bearings? (specialty equip. exempt ). Waterproof seals and dust seals are different animals too. And don't confuse bushings with bearings either . Rule of thumb here is... It's free, if you can't use it you can always give it away and make a new friend. ;D Dr Joe .
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 13, 2010 21:07:41 GMT -5
Well guys, here's an update. I finally got over there yesterday to get the saw. It was home built by Jeff's grandfather. I almost feel bad demolishing it, but Jeff said if I can get any type of use out of it, it's better than putting it on the curb. The bad news though, is the saw arbor just has bushings, not bearings. It's good for parts, maybe someday I'll build a buffer/polisher from it.
Nate
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Jul 13, 2010 22:04:41 GMT -5
Does it have grease fittings or an oiler for the bushings or if you could install them it could work for a rock saw.
Dr Joe
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 14, 2010 21:27:46 GMT -5
You know Dr. Joe, I was thinking about that at work today. I figure if I build a sort of cover to keep the rock snot from splashing all over the arbor, it should work OK, at least for a while. I may just do that... Here's 2 pix of the arbor from the saw, and one I got a few weeks ago at an auction (also with bushings). Worse case scenario is I get pillow blocks for the shaft of the newer arbor, and I'm good to go.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 14, 2010 21:34:35 GMT -5
If you could fit a felt washer backed by a metal washer next to the bushing, it should keep the rock snot out of it. What diameter is the shaft ? I have a brand new arbor just like that one that I picked up at a yard sale several years ago, but it's only a 1/2" shaft. Don
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 14, 2010 21:38:57 GMT -5
Don, the saw arbor shaft is 5/8", and the newer one is 3/4". I'd like to build a 14 or 16 inch saw. The 3/4" shaft should be plenty big for that, right? I need to go to my favorite farm store tomorrow, so I'll look at pillow block bearings right away.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 14, 2010 22:06:01 GMT -5
3/4" should handle a 16" blade. Don
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Jul 15, 2010 20:21:04 GMT -5
Put the end of the shaft with the blade in a box and leave the rest outside and out of the oil, then make a swing arm to hold the rock vise inside the box.
Dr Joe
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 15, 2010 21:21:47 GMT -5
I looked at the pillow blocks locally. They're about $12.00 each, so I'd rather spend my money on a saw blade first. If it ends up not working so well, I'll probably just buy a saw arbor from covington then. Good idea Dr. joe. I never thought to mount the arbor completely outside the saw box. (where's the smiley slapping himself in the forehead? LOL) I could mount the motor under it then to save room on the back of the saw. Time to hit the drawing board. Nate Ok, I have to make a correction. I have measured the arbor again. The shaft is 3/4", but the threaded end is 5/8". I have looked breifly online for saw blades, and some 14" work on a 5/8" arbor. I haven't seen a 16" blade that will yet.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 16, 2010 8:27:53 GMT -5
You can use a bushing for any blade. Covington uses a 5/8" on their 16". I always order 16" blades bushed to 5/8". Barranca made their 14" saw with two pillow blocks in the tank but in a boxed enclosure with a lid. They modified it and moved the pulley side bearing outside. You should look at drop saws also. They would be much easier to build.
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 16, 2010 22:09:24 GMT -5
Thanks for the info John. I searched around last night for blades and found 16" ones bushed to 5/8", so I figured it was just a matter of getting the correct bushing for any blade. I'll probably buy a cheap blade to start with, and if I don't mess it up eventually purchase a good one.
Nate
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 19, 2010 21:24:13 GMT -5
Well I won a 16" (used) blade cheap on ebay. I hope it's not junk, but for 10 bucks plus shipping, I'll make a wind chime or something from it if it's bad lol. I'll start throwing together some ideas for the box, and finalize it all when the blade arrives.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far everyone.
Nate
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Jul 20, 2010 10:04:58 GMT -5
I made a clock out of a really mangled 10" blade for the shop once ;D just as a reminder of what can happen . Don't forget to post pix of the build so we can cheer you on! Dr Joe .
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Jul 20, 2010 16:12:16 GMT -5
Sure thing Dr. Joe.
Nate
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