LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 27, 2011 22:48:05 GMT -5
I have decided to make my own cabbing machine I already started getting the parts I need I just have a few questions.
I have 6" wheels with bores of 1" Should I get a 1" shaft or get a 1/2" shaft and just use bushings to adapt the wheels to fit? Should I get a keyed shaft and keyed bushings? Ebay has some shafts but they are $45 for a 12" shaft (CRAZY) I am wanting more like an 18-24" If anyone knows of a place that sells them cheaper let me know. I am also looking at motors would a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm lathe motor work? It has the belt pulley already on it. What would be good to use to make the pan and hoods? I dont do metal work but want something waterproof. I saw the post with the 10 wheel machine but I cant seem to find any of that 1/4" plastic that I can use.
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Post by jakesrocks on Mar 27, 2011 23:06:05 GMT -5
There have been several discussions on here about home built cabbers. Look around and you'll find all kinds of info. Some is for 8 and 10 wheel setups, but you could always scale them down to fit your needs. I would suggest that you leave plenty of room between your wheels. Many of the manufactured cabbers have the wheels too close together to work large, oversized cabs.
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Mar 28, 2011 19:19:48 GMT -5
If building that long a machine, 5/8" or 3/4" shaft would likely be a better choice, 1/2" would get pretty wobbly without more than two support bearings. As jakesrocks said, plan plenty of room between the wheels, our Genie is too tight for anything of any size bigger than standard cabs, but the old Diamond Pacific works great. Genie is 2 1/4" spacing and D.P. is 5 1/2" spacing. 1/2 H.P. would be ample. I've built indoor fountains with wood tubs and used resin [as used with fiberglass work] and Plasti-dip [auto parts store] with good result as sealer.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 28, 2011 21:16:45 GMT -5
If you have any kind of local machine shop or metal fabrication shops check on shafts there. Ask for "cold rolled shaft stock". Have them thread the left side left hand threads and right side right hand thread. In this case size matters. 5/8" minimum, 3/4" even better. 1" would be overkill but you would never have a problem with sloppy fitting wheel adapter bushings. You don't need keyways. 1/2 hp would be plenty for a 6" machine. 1/3 hp is pretty much standard on 6" units.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 0:27:12 GMT -5
Ok ill look into the 3/4" also how do I mount the wheels without them slipping I know I need some bushings to make the holes match with the shaft is there a trick to it or something?
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Mar 29, 2011 0:48:21 GMT -5
www.mcguirebearing.com/ This company well have every thing you`l need to build the unit. And they have complete machine shop on site. and you`l fine their price`s to be below most other shops. I have dealt with this company for over 30 years, Working for the state of Oregon. Jack
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 29, 2011 7:55:36 GMT -5
The wheels are held in place by tightening end nuts on shaft. Remember any wheel mounted between bearings will be removed by also removing bearing on one end. If you plan on using an expandable drum you will have to have shaft extend beyond bearings. You will need spacers between wheels. I cut them from PVC pipe but it is necessary to cut them completely square. PVC is measured by inside diameter so 3/4" PVC will fit very tight on a 3/4" shaft. Wheel adapter bushings (also called telescopic bushings) are readily available from most lapidary suppliers.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 9:12:03 GMT -5
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Post by jakesrocks on Mar 29, 2011 9:54:59 GMT -5
Bad idea to use allthread, (fully threaded rod). Most allthread is made from hot rolled steel, and won't be precision ground like cold rolled shaft stock. It lacks the strength of shaft stock. The threads are only right hand , which will allow the wheels on the left end of the arbor to loosen and possibly come off. The threads will collect grinding grit, which will wipe out the center hole in your wheels and possibly your arbor bearings. Please listen to the advice of folks who have done this before. It will save you time, trouble and money in the long run.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 12:29:49 GMT -5
Jake I definatly will take any advice I can get. Here is a rough diagram of what I am planning. I will be using a 3/4"x2' shaft. Attachments:
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Post by jakesrocks on Mar 29, 2011 12:54:42 GMT -5
I would move that 80 grit wheel outside of your pillow blocks. Otherwise, when the time comes to change that wheel out, you'll have to take everything apart. With all of the wheels outside of the bearings, it's a simple matter of removing the end nut and sliding the wheels off the shaft. Also, don't depend on those shaft collars to tighten the wheels on the shaft. You'll never get them tight enough against the wheels to tighten them. That's what the nuts on the ends of the shaft are for. And remember, right hand thread on the right end, and left hand thread on the left end. Another thing I'd do is run my wheels in grit sequence from course to your finest grit. You might look into Don buying a 320 grit, and a 3000 grit wheels. That jump up to 10,000 grit is much too great a jump to do you any good without a couple of stages in between. For most rock, you can go straight from 3000 grit to the polish wheel with good results. Save that 10,000 grit wheel until you have some experience under your belt, and set up an extra 2 wheel arbor for say maybe a 6000 and 10000 grit wheels. Keep your eyes open. Wheels come up for sale quite often. I just changed out all 6 wheels on my Genie, but my old wheels were already promised to a friend.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 14:03:30 GMT -5
Now that I am narrowing things down I have a question about expandible drums. I found a Loretone Exact span rubber drum size 6" x 2-1/2", belt size 2-1/2" x 18-15/16", 3/4" arbor for sale new for $28. What is the difference between that one and the expandible ones that cost $50+? Seems to me they work exactly the same way and its also 2 1/2" which will make it even better. Plus if they will work just like the expandible ones I can acually get 3 cheaper than 2 of the other ones.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 14:29:22 GMT -5
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Post by jakesrocks on Mar 29, 2011 14:57:30 GMT -5
The Exac Span drums are cheaply made. I gave a pair away last year. The more expensive expanding drums will give you many years of reliable use. I'm still using a pair that are over 20 years old.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 15:07:17 GMT -5
Would they last atleast 2-3 years? I am on a budget and being able to get 2 wheels for the price of 1 would really be a help right now. It would just be for a little while then I would upgrade to better ones. But I will definatly listen to you guys opinions and not waste my money.
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Post by jakesrocks on Mar 29, 2011 15:25:26 GMT -5
They'll last that long. Be sure to order them with the right arbor hole size. They can't be fitted with bushings like the more expensive drums can. You might want to order an extra set of the rubber rings for them while you're at it. My first home built unit had those drums on it. Don
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Mar 29, 2011 18:03:51 GMT -5
Learned long time ago, be wary of appliance motors that don't have a wiring diagram, the black-white for hot and neutral isn't generally adhered to. Some are easy to figure out, some quite difficult w/o cooking them. I have nothing at all against using them, just be aware.
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Post by Jack, lapidaryrough on Mar 29, 2011 21:02:11 GMT -5
Farm duty 1/2 Hp. continuous duty. best choice.
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LSUROCKS
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 137
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Post by LSUROCKS on Mar 29, 2011 21:17:28 GMT -5
Well I got the motor for $9.99 with $15 shipping so we shall see.
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Post by Rockoonz on Mar 29, 2011 22:01:32 GMT -5
Allthread is too soft, and is not exactly 3/4 inch so everything would end up out of balance. Lee
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