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Post by Roller on Apr 6, 2011 12:02:32 GMT -5
I just started trying out some carving ! any beginner tips ? Iam using cheap green ebay burs from 240 grit to 600 grit and then i have ordered some 1,200-50k grit diamond p"s from john .. oh crap i should probably check them cheap ones for radiation ... anyways umm water of course and my dremel and flex attachment .. i did pretty good so far up to 600 on jasper piece practice but have a small problem with flat surfaces on getting them smooth ... Iam thinking i should try soapstone or something softer ... it looks good though i think .especially for a cab ... well I will see better when i get it shining more when my dp"s arrive ... so any tips i might not know ??
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Post by Dicky the Rockhunter on Apr 6, 2011 12:18:43 GMT -5
;D Great mind think in the same way, I am working on kyonite crystals with rubys in it and realy am having trouble getting a shine ! Maybe by both of us asking we will get faster response.
Dicky
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Apr 6, 2011 14:57:15 GMT -5
I have alabaster, arizona marble, red pipestone, white pipestone and some other soft stones, way more than I will ever use in my lifetime. I started on those and it gives you good practice till you want to try the harder material, plain old quartz is good as starter material to learn the hard stone carving.
Light touch and keep moving to smooth out the flats. Carving is not fast, its a slow process.
pm me if you want some of the above, $25.00 medium FR box with a good mix
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spokanetim
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2009
Posts: 656
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Post by spokanetim on Apr 6, 2011 22:52:02 GMT -5
Flat surfaces with a round burr is difficult. I've got tube shaped burs and flat burs which helps but still it takes a very slow careful carving. Once it's sort of flat I use wet/dry sandpaper bent over a flat stick to smooth bumps. I don't know of anyway to get around the sandpaper handwork.
Ruby is going to be especially difficult because its so hard. You'll have to use diamond for everything, sandpapers won't scratch it.
Tim
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amyk
fully equipped rock polisher
I'm a slabber, I'm a cabber, I'm a midnight wrapper.
Member since January 2010
Posts: 1,331
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Post by amyk on Apr 12, 2011 0:11:23 GMT -5
This doesn't really address the problem of polishing, but I find it to be fascinatingly simple. I am sure it takes a lot of practice.
Check this out on U tube.
I gotta try this.
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spokanetim
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2009
Posts: 656
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Post by spokanetim on Apr 12, 2011 11:59:32 GMT -5
They vib polish the stones after to smooth everything out and polish. I do the same if the stone allows. I hadn't seen this one before, check out the video of how fast they make cabs! I wonder where I can get one of those trim saws?? Mine can't cut 1/3 as fast. Make sure to wait till the end to see the giant vib tumblers full of thousands of cabs. www.risingsunwholesale.com/CuttingCabVIDEO.htmTim
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Apr 12, 2011 12:41:19 GMT -5
Smoothing out the cuts takes a lot of patience and a variety of tools, depending on the material. This is the single most time consuming step I deal with when carving a piece. On the willow creek carving I posted last week, I spent 8 hours just smoothing everything out. If you are trying to smooth out a large rounded surface like a cab dome, you're getter off doing the work on an wheel/expando drum as you'll never get a perfectly smooth dome otherwise.
For carvings, I'll go over the trouble spots with fine grit diamond bits to level out any hills or valleys where I don't want them. For the tight nooks and crannies, I will use coarse diamond paste with wooden points, or use V shapped silicon grinding disks on a mandrel. if the material is soft and prone to "orange peel"/undercutting, I will smooth out with wet/dry sand paper, starting at 600 grit or coarser as necessary. Sometimes I will tape a strip of sanding paper to a wooden dowel to facilitate the sanding process, otherwise, it's done by hand.
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CallMeShane
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2010
Posts: 112
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Post by CallMeShane on Apr 13, 2011 5:32:05 GMT -5
Don't hold the work piece in your hand,even for just "that one detail there" it's a fine way to carve a gouge in your flesh.
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Apr 13, 2011 9:41:26 GMT -5
I hold all my pieces by hand...
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Apr 13, 2011 17:26:15 GMT -5
Same here.
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Apr 13, 2011 18:29:49 GMT -5
I also hold my carving in my hand when I work with the hand piece. I have never had anything happen that resulted in injury.
If you use too much pressure when carving then "yes" your going to have a slip of the tool and maybe get a ding in your other hand!
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skystone
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2011
Posts: 171
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Post by skystone on Apr 19, 2011 22:30:56 GMT -5
I find using a piece of double stick foam tape. On a small wooden block works very well to hold smaller carving pieces. i use it too for small cabs when polishing on the leather wheel & tin ox. It just gives you something a bit better to get a grip on. It can be a problem holding small carvings since your fingers get in the way LOL The closer to finished can get rather slippery too. Mike
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