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Post by helens on May 8, 2012 7:08:56 GMT -5
When looking up the BD info, for 303C, it says under almost all their diamond blades NOT to use water, but to use oil or a coolant instead.
I read that you can use water if you wipe the blade dry after use. Is there anything else? Spray with oil? What is the best way to preserve the life of the blade?
Why are they not designed to use with water, there aren't many oil cooled small saws that use 4" and 6" blades? What is the difference between an oil and water cooled blade anyway?
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Post by johnjsgems on May 8, 2012 8:25:06 GMT -5
Water is fine as long as you drain and either wipe the blade dry or spray with something like WD40. The blade core is high carbon tool steel and will rust if left in water. They know most people will use water in 4" and 6" saws. They even include 303C blades on their 4" tile saw marketed to lapidary, and a same core 301 blade on their 10" tile saw. Both are water saws.
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Post by helens on May 8, 2012 12:09:47 GMT -5
Kewl, that's what I wanted to know John! Should I dry it and spray oil on it. So water lube won't actually damage the blade. Thanks:)!
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on May 8, 2012 12:38:07 GMT -5
I use a "water soluble oil" (whatever that is) on my trim saw. I use Lubri-Kool, but there are others. Some people don't like Lubri-Kool because it foams. I may try something else next time.
Chuck
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Post by helens on May 8, 2012 12:49:04 GMT -5
I have a cabmate... so if I want to use the saw, I have to take off the wheel (there's only room for 1 thing at a time, wheel or saw). The way the water is set up, I can't pour lube into it, it drains out into a pan, so I have to use water.
If I ever get a 'real' saw, I'll definitely use a coolant or oil:).
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Post by johnjsgems on May 15, 2012 15:33:58 GMT -5
Helen,
I thought the Cab Mate had a place for blade on left side and wheel on right. Are you saying the blade goes where the wheel goes? It has been a while since I sold them so I'm probably not remembering correctly.
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shelia
off to a rocking start
Member since May 2012
Posts: 1
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Post by shelia on May 15, 2012 15:40:41 GMT -5
I was using water on my blade for a while and even after drying it off I still got rust on it. It got so bad I ended up having to use a rust remover. I found one online through google, let me see if I can find it again......................it is enviro-safe at www.rust911.com it worked great. I learned my lesson though lol i use oil on my blade now.
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Post by johnjsgems on May 15, 2012 16:00:13 GMT -5
Oil cools blades better than water. On plastic bodied saws you pretty much need to use water. If you mist coat the blade with WD40 or silicon spray it should keep it from rusting after use with water. Some of the water soluble coolants have some petroleum in them so can eventually dissolve plastic.
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Post by helens on May 15, 2012 20:20:34 GMT -5
John, the Cabmate has 1 spot for 1 wheel, not 2:). So you have to fit everything into that one spot. The changing isn't so horrible, but because it's time consuming, it's smarter to save a whole bunch of things that need that same wheel to do all at once. When I tested the blade, I cut everything I planned to cut with it in one shot. Mostly trimming.
I did try to cut a small rock, and it took a VERY long time, and I ended up with no flat face because I didn't get the 2 end cuts to meet in the middle:(. But I don't think that a 6" blade was meant for cutting a 3" x 2.5" rock, which is what I shoved through it.
Ok, here's what I did... I got the blade, and yes, it goes EXACTLY where the wheels go, it replaces the grind wheels in the same spot:). I had to play with washers to get it in the right spot, but it fit great!
The cabmate had this little metal platform that you screw in with 2 screws with a notch for the blade, and that's what the blade has to line up with. Once I got that in, it was a piece of cake.
The blade works like a dream! Keeping in mind what you said about the metal rusting, I had no WD40, so I just poured about a teaspoon of olive oil on the blade and smeared it around front and back (oil prevents oxidation by suffocation, same reason bacteria can't grow on oil... so it shouldn't matter WHICH oil I used). I think that when you take the wheel off, so long as you dry it and coat it with oil, it can't rust. If it's metal, it's same as gun care, it needs oiling, especially after getting wet.
It works great, I'm really happy with my purchase, and if it breaks, I'm DEFINITELY buying another 303C from you again John:).
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Post by johnjsgems on May 15, 2012 20:31:04 GMT -5
Glad you like the blade. Even on my modified 4 wheels on Genie I do all four steps on several stones and then swap to the last two wheels. Most people do the same with the flat lap cabbers.
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Post by Bikerrandy on Jun 5, 2012 20:29:30 GMT -5
I used water on my 10 inch and 7 inch saws, and oil on the bigger ones.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 5, 2012 21:09:56 GMT -5
Water soluble oil works great, as long as you don't let it sit for long periods of time. After a week or so the water will separate from the oil. The oil floats to the top and leaves the rim of the blade sitting in water. I ruined one blade that way. My 10" saw sat all winter with water soluble oil in it.
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Charles
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2012
Posts: 161
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Post by Charles on Jun 6, 2012 7:38:58 GMT -5
I use water in my 6 in. trim saw, and had a problem with rust. I found a product by Crystalite called crystalcut. that has stopped my rust problem. Its been around for a long time but I just tried it recently and so far it has really helped. Disclaimer I don't have any ties to Crystalite or such. Just passing this along for what it's worth.
Charles
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LarryS
freely admits to licking rocks
SoCal desert rats
Member since August 2010
Posts: 781
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Post by LarryS on Jun 6, 2012 17:07:32 GMT -5
I've tried Lube Cool, Borax & RV antifreeze. Kingsley North's Gem Lube by far is the best in my 10". I use 303C .050 and 303P .060 blades and both kick but using Gem Lube and I only cut 7+ hardness. No rust issues and I leave the blades in the saw full of water. They don't say but Gem Lube is petroleum based because of the slight odor. It's synthetic and biodegradable, you mix it 10 parts water to 1 part Gem Lube. Doesn't separate.
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chassroc
Cave Dweller
Rocks are abundant when you have rocktumblinghobby pals
Member since January 2005
Posts: 3,586
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Post by chassroc on Jun 7, 2012 13:22:17 GMT -5
John...what do you mean ... "Even on my modified 4 wheels on Genie I do all four steps on several stones and then swap to the last two wheels. Most people do the same with the flat lap cabbers."
Did you switch from 3 wheels on the left and right to just two for some reason?
I use straight water on my 6 and 8 inch saws and hand apply motor oil after the blades dry.
I have a genie with the 8" saw kit and it is my favorite for most applications. Now I don't cut slabs with it but the blade is reasonably fine for most trimming applications and swapping the blades and grinding wheels is pretty easy.
I rarely take out my 7" skil tile saw anymore except for cutting opal (I have really thin 6" blades for opal).
I've got a 10 inch saw with an MK303 blade that I usually use with water soluble lubecool. I apply oil to this blade after it dries.
charlie
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 7, 2012 18:02:17 GMT -5
Charlie, yes I removed the center wheels so I can window larger pieces of pet wood and other fossils without running into the next wheel. I bought an adapter kit and set up last two wheels on it. It spins on/off just like your saw or right side wheels. I have the 80 and 220 Galaxy wheels on the left side and 280/600 on one right side unit and 1200/3000 on the extra adapter. I've lost the 6 wheel convenience but gained more clearance than a Titan. As you know, swapping out right side wheel adapters only takes seconds. Storing the extra adapter is actually more of a problem.
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slabbercabber
starting to shine!
Member since March 2010
Posts: 30
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Post by slabbercabber on Oct 17, 2012 18:35:30 GMT -5
Larger blades cut larger wider areas and move faster through the rock. This means they exert a larger amount of pressure on the cutting edge and create a much greater amount of heat. At these higher forces and heat generation, water turns to steam before it can cool and lubricate. At what point? Obviously variable. I do run water with an 18 inch blade when cutting large pieces of common opal, but I keep the pressure low. (I use a pneumatic cylinder drive.) For rust control I add borax and sodium nitrate. I also use my thinnest, most aggressive blade for the purpose. Attachments:
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