rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Oct 16, 2012 16:06:08 GMT -5
Hi, y'all - I'm building a 14-16in slab saw completely from scratch. One of my last sticking points is what material to use for the oil sump.
I'm either going to section off the large aluminum box/chassis with thin aluminum or steel sheet, sealed with a silicone based sealant like Permatex. Or I might use Plexiglas/Lexan.
Or, I was thinking of maybe using one of those plastic/rubber totes that you see at Home Depot. This one would be the most convenient as I would be able to just remove it and dump the oil into a filtration bucket when it got dirty.
My concerns have to do with whether or not these materials are compatible with oil/diesel based coolants and other liquids like mineral oil. Anyone have any experience and advise on this? Thanks, Rick
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Oct 16, 2012 17:02:39 GMT -5
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 17, 2012 9:35:23 GMT -5
I would think sealed metal would hold up better to oil based coolants than any plastic. Most plastic will eventually dissolve with oil. Same with silicone sealers. Epoxee should work or the Permatex gasket sealer mentioned already. A lot of old timers built slab saws with plywood tanks sealed with fiberglass resin. Add a drain fitting large enough to actually work.
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rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Oct 17, 2012 17:04:24 GMT -5
Thanks Chuck, John. Plywood just might be the ticket since it's more forgiving to work with and sheet metal can be pricey. That and the fact that the sump is going to be complicated and compartmentalized so that I can put a pump in it.
My intention is to build a saw that has both the blade dipping into a sump along with a spray nozzle at the point of the cut. Overkill? Probably, but I'm so tired of buying slabs that turn out to have deep saw marks that were hidden by the water on the rocks' in the pix. Just got what would have been the nicest full pattern/fortification Oregon carnelian nodule half in my collection but, after having to grind down past the deep gashes, the blood red in the banding I'd liked was mostly gone. Hate when that happens - and it happens WAY too often. So, I want to make sure i don't end up doing the same thing to myself when I start slabbing. C-ya, Rick
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The Dad_Ohs
fully equipped rock polisher
Take me to your Labradorite!!
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,860
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Oct 17, 2012 19:38:32 GMT -5
Probably, but I'm so tired of buying slabs that turn out to have deep saw marks that were hidden by the water on the rocks' in the pix. Those marks are caused by leaving the saw unattended while cutting and the slabs falls into the slab tray but doesn't fall down and instead rests against the blade edge while it is spinning which causes the groove to happen... I'm guilty of doing that once or twice myself..... I use sponges in my slab tray to catch slices that might ordinarily break when dropping into the metal tray but if the slab hits the gap between the blade and sponge right it will hang there and rub.. most of the slabs (99.9%) will fall onto the sponges properly but every once in a while....OOPS!!
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rykk
spending too much on rocks
Member since September 2011
Posts: 428
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Post by rykk on Oct 17, 2012 22:08:28 GMT -5
Hi, Dad - What I was referring to was the grooves that cover the whole length of the slab and can be deeper in some areas than others. Not sure what causes it but, at least on my homie saw, it won't be for lack of coolant - lol.
Actually, I reckon the saw grooves might be caused by either cutting too fast, maybe a dull blade, or maybe wobble. I used to think that some slab saws had stepping motors because the grooves are sometimes so equal in separation. Other times, when they're really bad, it almost looks like either they were cut by hand or the rock might have become bound as it fed. I've seen that on a 10" (Lortone or Covington, don't remember which) saw at the rock club I was in for awhile. It had a vise setup that just kind of slid across the saw table and you could flip it up 90 degrees. The rocks would sometimes ride up and lift the whole vise and bind the blade. Not a very good design, imo, and there should be something that keeps those types of saws' vise horizontal with maybe a catch you could release to swing the vise up. C-ya, Rick
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hand2mouthmining
spending too much on rocks
Purveyors of California Gem Rock
Member since September 2011
Posts: 495
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Post by hand2mouthmining on Oct 18, 2012 1:13:24 GMT -5
A plywood tank, sealed with an epoxy floor garage floor sealant/coating should work. Just install your drain hardware, mask and apply the sealant on one wall surface at a time. The sealer will self level through gravity alone, creating an oil tight seal.
You'll find the seal at your local Lowes or other home store, and they're easy to use. It might be a little more expensive than a plastic tub, but much longer lasting, and extremely rugged.
Kris
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keystonecops
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2010
Posts: 957
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Post by keystonecops on Oct 18, 2012 10:40:19 GMT -5
My 14 is an old home built made outa plywood. No ider what the guy sealed it with, but its still holdn. The bottom of the tank is angled, less oil. Gotta 11/4 inch drain in bottom. Ya gotta be ready with a bucket, first time I drained it, spent more time cleanin floor. A little oil goes a long way. Later Clyde
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 18, 2012 16:15:06 GMT -5
I think the saw marks are more a blade and feed rate issue.
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Oct 18, 2012 23:34:21 GMT -5
Use a lightweight plywood such as birch. It`s worth spending the money for. If weight is of no concern use a B-C grade of any wood. For a super seal on it a few thick coats of conatct cement will seal it forever. Do it outside with no sparks or flames around as it is flammable as hell with a lot of vapors. Don`t use a water base contact cement either. It`s almost as good as a fiberglass coating. And for the blade, if you use a continous rim blade you get the smoothest cuts. I have a .060 blade on my 14" that cuts a very smooth cut on all materials.
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