Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2012 21:35:04 GMT -5
it's gonna be a NEW SAW!!!
Beautiful work.
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The Dad_Ohs
fully equipped rock polisher
Take me to your Labradorite!!
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,860
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Nov 7, 2012 23:46:52 GMT -5
That is a bearing puller and the only issue I have with using one is that it will not necessarily pull the bearings off in a straight line that is needed to keep them from binding when being removed. Once that happens I have had to cut the inner race off to remove it from an arbor/axle for replacement. Now that's a proper puller, pulls from the inside of the bearing and does so evenly.. if you need to use ine that is what you should use. However I just did the bearings on my trim saw and after removing the bearing stops I placed a open end wrench over the bearings, should be about the size of the inside race, and with 2-3 medium taps the bearings popped loose and slid the rest of the way off. The set screws tend to mar the arbor and the arbor should be sanded with emery paper to remove the burrs and then the new bearing will slide right on!! just my
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The Dad_Ohs
fully equipped rock polisher
Take me to your Labradorite!!
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,860
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Nov 7, 2012 23:53:51 GMT -5
Here's the saw painted up. I need to get the vise assembly cleaned and painted and then I should be ready to re-assemble the saw. Saw looks really good... what kind of paint did you use?? I'm probably going to redo my 18 some day and could use a better paint than engine paint.
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herchenx
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Nov 8, 2012 0:15:39 GMT -5
Man that will be awesome
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gemdandy
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2012
Posts: 8
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Post by gemdandy on Nov 15, 2012 1:19:48 GMT -5
Looks like you're doing a great job on that saw! Turning out very nice. I have a 16" like yours i'm just getting started on.
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Post by stoner on Nov 15, 2012 3:15:20 GMT -5
You're doing it right, looks great. By the time it's back up and running, you'll know everything there is to know about that saw, and in this hobby, knowledge is everything.
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Nov 15, 2012 13:35:01 GMT -5
Thanks guys, I hope to get back to work on the saw project this weekend.
I used hammered rustoleum silver paint. I considered hammerite, but I didn't like the idea of not being able to paint over it with another paint if I wanted to without blasting off the hammerite. the 6 week cure time didn't excite me any either. the rustoleum can be easily touched up as necessary. one tip though, don't use the micro fiber paint rollers with the green stripe running down it...it leaves a pattern on the paint. arrgh....
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gemdandy
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2012
Posts: 8
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Post by gemdandy on Nov 16, 2012 12:23:27 GMT -5
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gemdandy
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2012
Posts: 8
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Post by gemdandy on Nov 16, 2012 12:28:52 GMT -5
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Nov 16, 2012 15:50:03 GMT -5
Steve, I pulled the pillow block bearings off of the arbor shaft using a three jaw gear puller since that is all I had available. I"m not familiar with the one in your link.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 16, 2012 20:13:25 GMT -5
I've never done an HP saw but every cab unit I've taken apart had concentric locking collars to center and lock bearings in place. To remove, completely remove the set screw and spray Liquid Wrench or other in the hole. Next to the set screw there will be a dimple. Place a punch or screw driver in the dimple and hammer tap in opposite direction of rotation. Collar should come off easily. Clean the exposed shaft surfaces with plumber's sand cloth and file any set screw dings or other dings smooth. The pullers work OK. If you are careful with a hammer you can carefully tap them loose. Once everything is clean and smooth you only need to break them loose and they will slide off.
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gemdandy
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2012
Posts: 8
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Post by gemdandy on Nov 18, 2012 17:24:03 GMT -5
THANKS for the replies! So far i've taken the bolts our of the pillow blocks and loosened all the set screws. I'm not sure how to proceed from here. I can't get the entire assembly off the saw. The larger drive pully is right next to the steel frame the pillow block bolts to and i can't raise the assembly up at an angle to slide the arbor out of the hold in the side of the saw box. The outside pillow block only has about a 16th of an inch at most between it and the browning pulley that the motor drives. Not near enough to get puller jaws between them. The browning pully has a collar with two bolts. Even if i could get the outside bearing off the drive pully won't slide past the steel frame everything bolts to. And, i can't push the arbor into the saw to remove it because of the inside bearing. This really has me stumped. The bearings seem good but the saw needs a new belt for the feed drive and there's no way i can see to replace it without taking the whole assemby off. The small 2.5" (guessing the size for here) is very worn so i'd like to replace that.
THANKS very much for any ideas/help.
Steve
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2012 17:59:47 GMT -5
Hi Steve, Do you have a Harbor freight near you? If so, get a vibration free adjustable belt, you will not need to remove the arbor and it will help if you have any vibrations from the motor which can cause saw marks in your slabs. www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.htmlGood luck, Tim
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Nov 19, 2012 0:02:50 GMT -5
Just a little update on my progress: I've been able to disassemble the vise assembly and have broken it down for cleaning and painting. I'm still debating what the best method is for removing old rock snot and grease...I'd like to get all of the internal components cleaned up and painted this week.
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Nov 19, 2012 0:13:50 GMT -5
THANKS for the replies! So far i've taken the bolts our of the pillow blocks and loosened all the set screws. I'm not sure how to proceed from here. I can't get the entire assembly off the saw. The larger drive pully is right next to the steel frame the pillow block bolts to and i can't raise the assembly up at an angle to slide the arbor out of the hold in the side of the saw box. The outside pillow block only has about a 16th of an inch at most between it and the browning pulley that the motor drives. Not near enough to get puller jaws between them. The browning pully has a collar with two bolts. Even if i could get the outside bearing off the drive pully won't slide past the steel frame everything bolts to. And, i can't push the arbor into the saw to remove it because of the inside bearing. This really has me stumped. The bearings seem good but the saw needs a new belt for the feed drive and there's no way i can see to replace it without taking the whole assemby off. The small 2.5" (guessing the size for here) is very worn so i'd like to replace that. THANKS very much for any ideas/help. Steve what ever you do, don't do what I did and try using the gear puller to remove the browning pulley...I broke a chunk out of mine trying to remove it....oops! good thing replacements are still available. For future reference, in case anyone needs to know. the pulley on the R1 highland park model is a Browning AK84H with a 1 1/4" bushing. the arbor is milled at 1 1/4" on this model. If you need to replace bearings, the original ones are sealmaster NP-20. These bearings will work: www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-15/1-dsh-1-fdsh-4%22-Pillow-Block-Bearing/Detail
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 19, 2012 9:03:17 GMT -5
The cast iron pulley is actually easy to remove. The center piece bolts in. Remove the bolts and remove. The center and outside piece are tapered and the bolts pull the center in to tighten. A little tapping and prying will do it. You can pry it open a little by prying in the groove of the outer piece.
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Nov 19, 2012 11:17:37 GMT -5
I had a hard time removing the cast iron pulley from my saw. the problem was, it was nestled between the two pillow block bearing mounts; so I had to remove the first bearing, bring up the pulley down the arbor until it was up against the forward mount, reach back through the pulley with the puller to get at the back bearing block, bring the back bearing block forward down the arbor to the pulley, and repeat the process until I could get the arbor pushed back enough that I could remove the pulley from the slot between the bearing mounts. I had made the mistake of using the outer track of the pulley for the gear puller arms the first try...bad idea.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,159
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Post by jamesp on Nov 20, 2012 8:06:19 GMT -5
This project is too cool.My rock buddy,he is a 90 year old Ohio yankee and very fiesty.Had a rock shop for almost 50 years in Tampa Florida.Brag brag brag about that large Highland Park saw he had.He apparently took very good care of it-like the blade lasted him some amazing amount of years.Said it was a 24 incher and was real heavy.He mainly cut brazillian,his heat treated Florida corals(they can be large),calcite and stuff he collected at his freind's S Dakota ranch.He would be putting his ideas in this thread. He says-'the key to a polished slab is a well adjusted slow cutting saw'.
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gemdandy
off to a rocking start
Member since November 2012
Posts: 8
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Post by gemdandy on Nov 23, 2012 0:07:23 GMT -5
First, i want to wish everyone a wonderful Thanksgiving.
With everyone's help i finally removed the bearings and pulleys off the arbor! Thankfully they were not too seized and came of pretty easy. It was quite a puzzle at first but all went well with a small two jaw puller. Thanks so much for all the help. Hopefully i can help someone else here in the future.
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markphoto3
off to a rocking start
Member since December 2012
Posts: 2
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Post by markphoto3 on Jan 1, 2013 13:14:47 GMT -5
A good man to talk to would be Tim from cigar Box Rocks in Bend, OR. He owns a Landscaping and trucking business and order to not lay off his workers in the winter he rebuilds old slab saws in his shop. I bought a 20" from him last year and it is beautiful. Looks like he came off the line in 1950. You can contact him at www.cigarboxrock.com tell him that Mark Goodell recommended him. Mark
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