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Post by Jugglerguy on Sept 16, 2014 16:44:18 GMT -5
I'm in the process of taking my new to me cab machine apart to repaint it. I'm have some difficulty removing the arbor. I got the wheels off, removed the c-clip retaining rings, and am attempting to slide it out. I also loosened all the set screws on the bearings and removed the bearing bolts. I hit the end of the arbor and got it to move, but not very easily. Should I spray the arbor with oil or WD-40 to get it moving? Can I tap the end with a hammer? What happens when I get to the threads? Will it mess them up?
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Sept 16, 2014 17:08:49 GMT -5
Seems like I remember beating the snot out of mine to get it out. Use a block of wood on the end of the shaft to avoid screwing that up. If it were me I would be replacing the bearings and rubber insulating boots while you have it all torn apart. You will really kick yourself if you get it all back together and six months later a bearing starts going bad. I ordered bearings and boots for about $40 right from Lortone.
I am not sure about the unit you have but a brand new shaft for the LU6 combo was only $38. I didn't end up needed it but thought that was pretty reasonable.
Chuck
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Post by Jugglerguy on Sept 16, 2014 17:20:34 GMT -5
How bad was it to get back together?
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Sept 16, 2014 17:54:11 GMT -5
Man I really don't remember Rob but it may have been easier since I had new bearings. You might want to lightly sand the inside of the pulley too after its apart to make sure it slides on better. If your bearings were all good I would have been tempted to tape off the exposed shaft and paint around it unless you really want to paint inside the pulley and bearing area too.
Chuck
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Sept 16, 2014 17:59:09 GMT -5
I remember taking off all my wheels and blade then I ran the machine while holding sandpaper and then brilo pads against the shaft to clean up all exposed areas to help it go through the bearings easier. Sorry my memory is horrible.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Sept 16, 2014 18:10:55 GMT -5
He shaft itself is spotless, except for the half inch between the retaining clip and the box around the belt. That's just a little dirty. I'll go play around some more.
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Post by jakesrocks on Sept 16, 2014 18:34:38 GMT -5
Since it's easier to find the right hand nuts than the left, Put the right hand nut on the shaft before beating on it. The threads in the nut will protect the shaft threads. Put the nut on about 7/8 of the way, so the end of the shaft isn't exposed.
I see what looks like a locking ring about half way under the bearing cap. Did you remember to loosen the set screws in the locking rings ?
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Post by Jugglerguy on Sept 16, 2014 18:42:08 GMT -5
I got it off. I used a 2x4 on the end of the shaft and hit it with a hammer. That wasn't moving it, so I hit it back the other way and used steel wool on the dirty part. It turns out, there was a little rust under the dirt. It wasn't bad at all and was easy to remove with steel wool. After that, it came right out.
Thanks for the help.
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39don
starting to spend too much on rocks
https://www.etsy.com/shop/DonsLapidaryArts
Member since February 2012
Posts: 225
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Post by 39don on Sept 16, 2014 18:46:10 GMT -5
Hi Rob,
I would screw the nut back on all the way till the threads are almost even with the end of the nut. It any threads are accidentally messed up all you have to do is screw the nut off and the nut will correct the bad thread, within reason. Where a setscrew has been tightened against the shaft it will force metal to spread/rise, these places should be filed so the surface will be no larger/higher than the shaft's diameter. This will let the bearings and pully slide easier over the setscrew contact areas. It would be best to use a penetrating oil but if you are in a hurry and have none use some lubricant on the shaft.
39don
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