sorg
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2012
Posts: 3
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Post by sorg on Feb 22, 2015 16:02:35 GMT -5
I am reconditioning an old homemade 16" diamond saw. The body is made from stainless steel plate. (VERY hard to drill through). The blade is a 16" (0.085) with a blue and yellow Greiger label. The blade says it was made by MK according to custom specifications and is in pretty good condition even though it dates back some 30+ years at the least. The company stopped production in 1981 according to the all knowing net. It is a continuous rim with diamond nubs spaced about 1/8" around each side of the blade. The saw cut very well until the motor died.
I have seen the MK rpm chart giving 3 choices for three different MK series blades. I have no clue which if any MK blade this blade resembles. I am hoping someone is familiar with this blade and can give me some helpful advise. Any advise will be appreciated.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 22, 2015 23:05:03 GMT -5
Somewhere there is a way to calculate appropriate sfm for diff types of blades, but it escapes me (I looked on cigarbox lapidary site), but the bottom line is that most of the speed ranges are overlapping. So if you go with what set up you'll probably be alright, and if the saw bogs down on typical cuts, you will know you are too slow. Too fast is not a liability other than resulting is slow cutting (I'm assuming you have a power feed). Listening to the saw on various types of rocks is the best way to set up a saw for your use (not the factory's idea of what you are cutting). Enjoy.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,634
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Post by QuailRiver on Feb 22, 2015 23:24:27 GMT -5
Hello Sorg, MK, Star Diamond, and Vanguard all produced contracted custom diamond blades to be sold under other brand/distributor names. But they were usually a standard model blade that was just custom painted for the contracting customer. I know that MK made contract custom blades at one time or another for MLS (Minnesota Lapidary Supply) and Lortone, and there were probably others too. They nearly always still had the MK Blade model number stamped somewhere on them. Sometimes it's hard to find if the paint is thick. But there should be a 297 or 301 stamped on it somewhere. There is also frequently a production date code number too. Sometimes there will be a letter included in the model number like "C301". Look it over in good sunlight with magnification and you may be able to find it. If you can you will have your answer. Larry C. P.S. We like pictures of old saws .
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Post by catmandewe on Feb 23, 2015 2:15:48 GMT -5
If you can't find it then a good rule of thumb on all saw blades is 2,000 sfpm, then adjust up or down accordingly as to how your saw cuts.
Tony
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Post by jakesrocks on Feb 23, 2015 10:37:19 GMT -5
Info overload alert !!! Download this PDF file and scroll down to page 55. You should be able to get the info you need from it.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 23, 2015 13:14:04 GMT -5
If it is one of the old notched rim blades follow the 301 instructions. If the core is shiny metal with rim a gold color follow 303S specs. Guessing notched rim by your description.
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sorg
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2012
Posts: 3
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Post by sorg on Feb 23, 2015 19:06:22 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help, I'll try and post some pictures when I get it back together.
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