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Post by oregon on Oct 26, 2016 15:44:11 GMT -5
I don't keep my lot-o running full time, and always seem to forget T or t or days or.... so I printed out a business card, laminated and stuck it on the machine. Printed a sheet at the same time, so I have a half dozen spares, happy to send one your way, just pm me with your address. of course there is no one perfect recipe, I've been using, gleaned from several posts - here's whats on the card: Amnt Grit Borax Hours
1 2 T 120/220 SiC None 24-48
2 ½ t 500 Al2O3 1 T 24-48
3 ½ t 1000 Al2O3 1 T 24-48
4 ½ t Polish Al2O3 1 T 24-48
5 - - 2 T 3-5Cheers.  |
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Oct 26, 2016 17:03:35 GMT -5
Good idea and good recipe for anyone getting started ( huskeric). Pretty much explains how I run mine for 90% of the loads. Chuck |
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ChicagoDave
has rocks in the head
Member since June 2016
Posts: 720
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Post by ChicagoDave on Oct 26, 2016 18:49:04 GMT -5
Great idea and that is the same recipe I have cobbled together based on all the recommendations. Skipping the borax in the 120/220 stage made a big difference with how much water I had to keep adding!!
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Post by oregon on Oct 27, 2016 1:07:23 GMT -5
Great idea and that is the same recipe I have cobbled together based on all the recommendations. Skipping the borax in the 120/220 stage made a big difference with how much water I had to keep adding!! yeah, far from an expert but I find that often the rocks aren't moving too well by the end of 2 days in 120/220 ( I usually spray some water in after day one, but unlike the AO stages where the slurry thickens and things keep moving at relatively the same pace... Maybe the SiC is really all pulverized and there is not much left to 'grab' the rocks to keep em moving? Drummond Island Rocks |
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Oct 27, 2016 5:16:53 GMT -5
I actually check and add a few squirts of water three or four times a day during 120/220. I really try to keep a consistent movement going. I figure if I don't check it and it is sitting there barely moving the rocks for six hours then that is six hours basically wasted in the process. I think the slurry getting thick is more about the amount of rock being removed. If I toss is some moh's 5 stuff the slurry thickens within hours but if I toss in all Lake superior agates it takes much longer for it to thicken. If it were the grit breaking down I would expect the results to be reversed. I do not have a degree in tumbling though so those are just opinions and observations.
Chuck
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,718 
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Post by Fossilman on Oct 28, 2016 10:12:56 GMT -5
Looks like a great recipe! I'm going to invest in a vibe,my rotary's just can't seem to finish out my Obsidian! Gets it all done except the polish!!!!!
So in general,a vibe does a faster job too???
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Post by Garage Rocker on Oct 28, 2016 10:18:04 GMT -5
I still like that printed cap with bungee attachments. I come home sometimes and find the top popped off. Not the end of the world, but annoying. Good idea for the recipe card.
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ChicagoDave
has rocks in the head
Member since June 2016
Posts: 720
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Post by ChicagoDave on Oct 28, 2016 10:24:23 GMT -5
Looks like a great recipe! I'm going to invest in a vibe,my rotary's just can't seem to finish out my Obsidian! Gets it all done except the polish!!!!! So in general,a vibe does a faster job too??? After spending the time rotary tumbling in 46/70, it takes 8 days to take everything to a polish. I run the 120-220/500/1000/Polish stages 2 days each. I know others only use 1 day each. So, months in the rotary shaping and a week getting to polish. I'll be posting my obsidian early next week. |
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,718
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Post by Fossilman on Oct 28, 2016 10:39:17 GMT -5
We just hounded about a 100 pounds of obsidian,will be running some in the tumblers this winter also...
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Post by roy on Oct 28, 2016 11:34:45 GMT -5
so question you guys that use the lot-o do you rough grind in there to or just finish the rough out in it??
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ChicagoDave
has rocks in the head
Member since June 2016
Posts: 720
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Post by ChicagoDave on Oct 28, 2016 11:53:00 GMT -5
I do my rough grind in my Lortone QT66. I've read that rough grinding in the Lot-O requires a lot of babysitting (since the grit needs to keep being replaced). Plus I think the rocks look better when rotary tumbled for the first step (someone ran a test on this board).
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Post by oregon on Oct 28, 2016 16:40:07 GMT -5
I tried rough in the lot-o once, I'd say that was a failed experiment. Going to try jamesp 's idea of adding a 'hammer of Thor' (aka big rock) in the rough barrels to see if I can speed that up. |
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 28, 2016 20:30:23 GMT -5
so question you guys that use the lot-o do you rough grind in there to or just finish the rough out in it?? I also tried rough grinding in the Lot-O once. I ran Montana agate for a month, changing the grit daily (or maybe every other day). The rocks never rounded and I never got rid of the holes, but they came out very shiny. Not my style, so I never did It again. There's a thread on it somewhere. |
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 28, 2016 20:33:17 GMT -5
I still like that printed cap with bungee attachments. I come home sometimes and find the top popped off. Not the end of the world, but annoying. Good idea for the recipe card. I use the original red lid. To keep rocks from pushing it off, I tie three large rubber bands together, loop one end around the knob on the bottom of the barrel, run it over the lid, and back to the bottom knob. Easy as can be and 100% effective. |
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
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Post by jamesp on Oct 28, 2016 21:51:17 GMT -5
I tried rough in the lot-o once, I'd say that was a failed experiment. Going to try jamesp 's idea of adding a 'hammer of Thor' (aka big rock) in the rough barrels to see if I can speed that up. Protect your rocks, the big on and the others that it bullies. Like 1 inch smalls and I use slurry thickener. |
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Post by roy on Oct 31, 2016 11:01:03 GMT -5
so question you guys that use the lot-o do you rough grind in there to or just finish the rough out in it?? I also tried rough grinding in the Lot-O once. I ran Montana agate for a month, changing the grit daily (or maybe every other day). The rocks never rounded and I never got rid of the holes, but they came out very shiny. Not my style, so I never did It again. There's a thread on it somewhere. just checking ! wanted to make it clear to the new folks that the rough grinding is done in a different machine |
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huskeric
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2016
Posts: 353
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Post by huskeric on Nov 2, 2016 14:18:14 GMT -5
Good idea and good recipe for anyone getting started ( huskeric ). Pretty much explains how I run mine for 90% of the loads. Chuck I have just started AO 1000, Really looking forward to seeing how this all works out. I added some well-worn ceramics for this run. I have a good mix of stones/sizes, but I can't imagine ceramics being a bad thing. |
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Nov 2, 2016 15:01:26 GMT -5
Good idea and good recipe for anyone getting started ( huskeric ). Pretty much explains how I run mine for 90% of the loads. Chuck I have just started AO 1000, Really looking forward to seeing how this all works out. I added some well-worn ceramics for this run. I have a good mix of stones/sizes, but I can't imagine ceramics being a bad thing. Every load that comes out of my loto has at least 20 percent ceramics. If nothing else the ceramics will make sure all flats on the stones are polished. Flat areas are actually the most difficult part to get an even polish on. Chuck |
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huskeric
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2016
Posts: 353
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Post by huskeric on Dec 2, 2016 11:40:32 GMT -5
I'm sorry if this has been discussed before, but I haven't seen anything "definitive." When you run 120/220, do you need to clean out before you recharge with more grit, or just keep adding a few spritzes of water? I know you don't want too much slurry in the bowl, but looking for some "best practices." Thanks!
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Post by Garage Rocker on Dec 2, 2016 12:09:57 GMT -5
I'm sorry if this has been discussed before, but I haven't seen anything "definitive." When you run 120/220, do you need to clean out before you recharge with more grit, or just keep adding a few spritzes of water? I know you don't want too much slurry in the bowl, but looking for some "best practices." Thanks! When you say 'recharge', do you mean adding more 120/220, because most of us don't add more once you get it going? Put your two tablespoons in and run it for 36-48 hours, adding a squirt or two of water as it dries out. By not adding more, you are allowing it to break down to the point that it 'leads' right into the next stage. Also, you don't have to be so concerned about larger grit moving on to the next stage with the rocks. It will be broken down to something close to 500 anyway. Do your cleanout before moving to 500, then again before 1000 (if using that stage) and clean out well before polish. Maybe even burnish before polish if you want to.
There are exceptions. I believe Jeremy txrockhunter was doing grit additions, or recharges, during the 120/220 stage to get more grinding action throughout that stage. Don't know if he still is, but he gets great results too.
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