jamesp
Cave Dweller 
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
|
Post by jamesp on Feb 17, 2018 6:04:37 GMT -5
Thanks in advance. I would like to have a very good 7" blade that has a thin kerf and finer diamonds.
I did not know if 7" lapidary blades will fit a tile saw, but it needs to.
Can be costly, looking for quality.
|
|
|
|
Post by gmitch067 on Feb 17, 2018 8:58:41 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by gmitch067 on Feb 17, 2018 9:13:55 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by rockjunquie on Feb 17, 2018 9:42:22 GMT -5
Those are the blades I use, but I wouldn't say it was a thin kerf. Great blades, though.
|
|
|
|
Post by woodman on Feb 17, 2018 9:57:46 GMT -5
I would get a lapidary trim saw and be done with it.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Feb 17, 2018 10:06:53 GMT -5
Seven inches is not a standard size for lapidary blades. I think Barranca Diamond sells one or two types of blades marketed specifically for lapidary use in the 7" size but to my knowledge that is it.
Larry C.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Feb 17, 2018 10:14:41 GMT -5
I just looked at Barranca's web page and they make three styles of 7" blades suited for lapidary stone work. The 303C (.030" & .050" kerfs), the 303P (.067" kerf), and the 305 (.050" kerf).
Larry C.
|
|
|
|
Post by MrP on Feb 17, 2018 11:24:53 GMT -5
With your luck James you can probably find a used trim saw for next to nothing. The difference between a 6" and 7" blade is only a 1/2" in height so if you are only using it for trimming the 6" may work. I use this blade from Kingsley North for trimming and it works good for me. I use the 3-0030 which is 1/2" arbor and they also have the 3-0031 5/8". Being a cheap blade there is no real loss if you ruin it trying to make a unique cut. I do a lot of trim saw cutting and they do last unless I make a mistake. If you want a blade that cuts well enough to not have to clean the cut up after, it will have to be a MK or BD, 301 or 303. Good luck..............................MrP |
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Feb 17, 2018 17:13:23 GMT -5
Keep in mind that tile saws generally run at much higher RPM (around 3,600) than lapidary trim saws (around 1725). Make sure the blade you get is rated for the RPM of the saw. I have never owned a tile saw and have always used MK303 blades in my trim saws and really like them. Edit: looking at this chart RPM may not be an issue www.barrancadiamond.com/lap/tec_speed.htmlChuck |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
|
Post by jamesp on Feb 18, 2018 6:57:24 GMT -5
Keep in mind that tile saws generally run at much higher RPM (around 3,600) than lapidary trim saws (around 1725). Make sure the blade you get is rated for the RPM of the saw. I have never owned a tile saw and have always used MK303 blades in my trim saws and really like them. Edit: looking at this chart RPM may not be an issue www.barrancadiamond.com/lap/tec_speed.htmlChuck Thanks a bunch for the info. I get it. I understand. All of those inputs covered all my concerns. The tile saw is awfully fast at 3600 RPM Chuck. That is a huge point. Great for grinding the heck out of rocks but sure does shatter glass. For instance the tile saw equipped with a tuck grinding blade is a serious rock eater, because of the 3600 RPM. No match for shear speed. I see the 7" (lapidary) blades w/thin kerf + finer diamonds for a tile saw. I will try one of these first since all cuts will be tumbled. If I continue to break stock and shed splinters I will search for a 1725 lapidary unit. Got naugahyde skin but that tile saw cutting glass leaves me bleeding and with splinters every time and gloves hinder me. The 6 inch true lapidary blade on a 1725 platform sure sounds like the way to go. Probably has better water management too. Love them MK blades and will probably last forever cutting glass. If anyone sees a 6 inch lapidary saw that keeps operator dry on Ebay or has one to unload please let me know. I can fix most anything like replacing bearings and finding motors, belts and pulleys so it can be in rough condition. Also looking for a water lubricated 10 inch lapidary saw that --keeps operator dry--. If it will do what a 6 inch saw will do as far as thin kerf precision cutting then that would even suit me better for slabbing up to 2.3 inch glass. Guessing you need both 6 and 10. Thanks again folks. |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
|
Post by jamesp on Feb 21, 2018 15:35:38 GMT -5
It is a challenge slabbing glass without breaking the 6 inch long slabs with the tile saw. Thanks again for the help and suggestions.   |
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,718 
|
Post by Fossilman on Feb 21, 2018 18:07:19 GMT -5
MK has some great blades out,that I use on my trim saw...
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
|
Post by jamesp on Feb 22, 2018 6:22:09 GMT -5
MK has some great blades out,that I use on my trim saw... Can't go wrong with MK on the 18 inch saw Michael. Fine rock saw blades, quality unbeatable. |
|
unclesoska
freely admits to licking rocks
All those jade boulders tossed in search of gold!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 934
|
Post by unclesoska on Feb 22, 2018 19:19:43 GMT -5
MK recommends using only oil for their 10" and larger blades, so that could be a gamechanger. Maybe an 8" trim saw is the answer, you can still use water, though a rust inhibiter would need to be added, and perhaps more cleanup (drying) of the saw would be necessary.
|
|
unclesoska
freely admits to licking rocks
All those jade boulders tossed in search of gold!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 934
|
Post by unclesoska on Feb 22, 2018 19:21:11 GMT -5
Instead of gloves, would finger cots still allow enough flexibility?
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
|
Post by jamesp on Feb 26, 2018 7:45:39 GMT -5
MK recommends using only oil for their 10" and larger blades, so that could be a gamechanger. Maybe an 8" trim saw is the answer, you can still use water, though a rust inhibiter would need to be added, and perhaps more cleanup (drying) of the saw would be necessary. Water in a tile saw with a plain old Rigid brand tile saw is doing OK if I am real careful/lucky. The shrapnel is formidable and me not one to complain about such bombardment being a welder but glass splinters in the butt crack is no fun. those splinters go everywhere lol. I do need a bigger blade say the 8 inch trim you mentioned to cut a full 2.25 inches for cast glass blocks. 2.25 inches expands the use of the block and slab to side by side 1+ inch cabs for efficient use of material. Glad you mentioned the oil thing. That will be avoided. |
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,602
|
Post by jamesp on Feb 26, 2018 7:46:44 GMT -5
MK has some great blades out,that I use on my trim saw... What brand of trim saw are you using Michael ? |
|
