Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Mar 4, 2018 16:33:01 GMT -5
Something strange going on with my saw and I'm stumped at this point ...
The pulley on the feed shaft outside the saw spun loose - no big deal I got an allen wrench and tightened the set screw.
Now when I look at it, the pulley is fine, the shaft is spinning, the threaded rod is spinning, the split nut engages solidly with the threaded rod (as far as I can tell), the vice carriage advances, but when the rock meets the blade it stops.
Process of elimination says this is the split nut not engaging all the way but I can see it closing around the threaded rod with heavy spring pressure. What am I missing here?
|
|
|
|
Post by woodman on Mar 4, 2018 16:46:00 GMT -5
Dull blade?
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Mar 4, 2018 17:05:30 GMT -5
Well when the stone reaches the blade it's as if there is not enough pressure to advance it into the blade. The blade just lightly clicks against the stone. |
|
NRG
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,688
|
Post by NRG on Mar 4, 2018 17:19:11 GMT -5
We dull threads on the split nut?
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Mar 4, 2018 17:25:45 GMT -5
Hmmm... well apparently the bolt holding the feed dog on had come loose just enough to allow it to slip on the threaded rod. I tightened it up and it's feeding again... strange because it's always had the same amount of play in it and has never given trouble.
I'll dress the blade also just to make sure that didn't contribute to the problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by woodman on Mar 4, 2018 17:26:41 GMT -5
Well when the stone reaches the blade it's as if there is not enough pressure to advance it into the blade. The blade just lightly clicks against the stone. Time to take the split nut apart and look at the threads. opps, you posted while I was typing. |
|
AzRockGeek
has rocks in the head
Member since September 2016
Posts: 703
|
Post by AzRockGeek on Mar 4, 2018 17:51:44 GMT -5
Easy fix, your saw is tired of cutting all that Bad A$$ Burro Creek. Send them to me to get cut, I promise I will send you pics.  |
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Mar 4, 2018 20:31:40 GMT -5
Easy fix, your saw is tired of cutting all that Bad A$$ Burro Creek. Send them to me to get cut, I promise I will send you pics. Hahaha something sounds wrong with this advice... thank goodness the saw is happily cutting away again. As a matter of fact it's cutting through another large chunk of purple gold as we speak  |
|
|
|
Post by roy on Mar 5, 2018 11:58:28 GMT -5
cut a thin strip of leather and put between the feed dog and the shaft this will get you going
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Aug 22, 2018 10:45:05 GMT -5
So I'm dragging this thread back up because my HP 18 is not feeding again. Blade is resurfaced, speed is set on lowest pulley. It cut good for several months since I posted this but now suddenly the blade hits the stone and starts to cut for a few seconds then the feed stops. I've followed this video and newly adjusted the feed dogs as well as I can. I guess it's time to take it apart as woodman said but before I do that - has anyone ever tried using a C-clamp or vice-grips (on a very low setting) just to help the split nut stop slipping and get a little more life out of it? How risky is it - the threaded rod appears to be in perfect condition still and I don't want to sacrifice the rod just to delay the inevitible. Should I just replace the split nut inserts and be done with it? I think I know what the answer is but I just want to hear the opinions of those who have been there done that. |
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Aug 22, 2018 11:00:12 GMT -5
Yes a c clamp will secure a split that tends to jump under load. I did this on a covington until I was advised to wedge something between the handles on the opposite end. A wine cork works great but you will have to use a c clamp on the hp. I decided the spring on the split nut apparatus was weak rather than the threads being worn.
|
|
zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
|
Post by zarguy on Aug 22, 2018 12:32:08 GMT -5
Does the HP 18" have split nut inserts? My HP 14 has cast bronze levers that incorporate the split threads.  I just got done rebuilding my saw. I will post a thread with lots of pictures so people can see what's what under all that rock snot. Lynn |
|
|
|
Post by woodman on Aug 22, 2018 12:39:41 GMT -5
So I'm dragging this thread back up because my HP 18 is not feeding again. Blade is resurfaced, speed is set on lowest pulley. It cut good for several months since I posted this but now suddenly the blade hits the stone and starts to cut for a few seconds then the feed stops. I've followed this video and newly adjusted the feed dogs as well as I can. I guess it's time to take it apart as woodman said but before I do that - has anyone ever tried using a C-clamp or vice-grips (on a very low setting) just to help the split nut stop slipping and get a little more life out of it? How risky is it - the threaded rod appears to be in perfect condition still and I don't want to sacrifice the rod just to delay the inevitible. Should I just replace the split nut inserts and be done with it? I think I know what the answer is but I just want to hear the opinions of those who have been there done that. I would hesitate putting clamp on it, you could run the risk of harming the blade. If the blade is freshly dressed, then you would be looking at a weak spring, worn dogs or worn threads on the shaft. It has to be one of those. If your is like the video, it looks like it would be easy to take it apart, course yours is probably not nice a clean like in the video. good luck |
|
|
|
Post by Rockoonz on Aug 22, 2018 21:37:19 GMT -5
I recently followed up on a guy who "rebuilt" his saw and it wouldn't feed. It turned out to be a misaligned worm and ring gear, the set under the cover on the front of the saw. The bearings can get loose and the worm gear can move. If you adjust it closer leave a little but of play to prevent wear.
|
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Aug 23, 2018 8:39:29 GMT -5
I agree with Woodman that tightening the linkage with a clamp is potentially asking to transfer too much pressure if some other resistance is abnormal. But these are belt driven and hence have some give. The cork block was needed on my 20 in Covington even after I had cleaned the threads. A wimpy spring on the split nut was my diagnosis. The HPIS different but analogous. Yes we should look for other problems. The u tube adjustment guidance by HP is worth watching for everyone.
|
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Aug 23, 2018 14:41:51 GMT -5
OK sorry for the slow update. zarguy - you are correct, I was wrong in thinking I had the same 'inserts' as the video. Mine are like yours with two solid pieces. So yesterday I started using the c-clamp successfully with surprisingly low pressure which makes me think it is the spring as was mentioned. I cut all day and it's been running most of this morning. It's a bit of a pain to undo the clamp with each cut but I'm used to it already. When I feel motivated I think I'll go ahead and pull it off just to get a look at the inside threads and if they look fine I'll buy a new spring and try that. |
|
zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
|
Post by zarguy on Aug 23, 2018 15:53:08 GMT -5
Tommy If you're going to replace the spring, you don't have to do too much disassembly. Remove the bottom/rear jaw of the vise by 5 or so screws. That should let you see & remove the spring. At least that's how the smaller 14" works. Lynn
|
|
|
|
Post by sophia13 on Aug 28, 2018 17:43:38 GMT -5
OK sorry for the slow update. zarguy - you are correct, I was wrong in thinking I had the same 'inserts' as the video. Mine are like yours with two solid pieces. So yesterday I started using the c-clamp successfully with surprisingly low pressure which makes me think it is the spring as was mentioned. I cut all day and it's been running most of this morning. It's a bit of a pain to undo the clamp with each cut but I'm used to it already. When I feel motivated I think I'll go ahead and pull it off just to get a look at the inside threads and if they look fine I'll buy a new spring and try that. Wouldn't happen to have a pic of said C clamp in action would you? My saw is doing something pretty similar. Thanks for any help. Not sure how to try the clamp. Would a weak spring make the sled not travel if the screws was turning? |
|
Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,977
|
Post by Tommy on Aug 28, 2018 20:45:08 GMT -5
Wouldn't happen to have a pic of said C clamp in action would you? My saw is doing something pretty similar. Thanks for any help. Not sure how to try the clamp. Would a weak spring make the sled not travel if the screws was turning? Sure, here you go. The clamp is working for me but I'd hate to be responsible for you ruining your blade so use with caution please.  |
|
|
|
Post by sophia13 on Aug 29, 2018 6:42:45 GMT -5
Thank you, If it works, I'll know I need to order new "jaws".
|
|
