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Post by lonetreestudios on Aug 19, 2018 8:38:35 GMT -5
Greetings all! Anybody on here have paperwork or experience with the auto-feed Covington saws? I have an oldddd 16"er that is starting to require fairly regular tightening of the spring loaded nut on the clutch in order to cut anything hard, so guessing the clutch pack is about shot (course, 120 degree cutting oil doesn't help, gotta love Phoenix summers!). Have looked on-line and don't find anything addressing replacement or maintenance (other than "tighten or loosen based on hardness of rock"). Spoke with Covington rep and they were no help either. The clutch assembly doesn't show up on their schematic and "supposedly" they don't offer them for sale..??!! I would imagine a person could rebuild it with appropriate friction material, just don't know what that would be. Anybody have any ideas or experience with this feature or problem? Thanks for the info... happy rockin'
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 19, 2018 13:04:07 GMT -5
I've got two 20" Covingtons (one old and one really old) and they both use fiber washers and bronze sleeves in the clutch assembly. Both items can be found at most good hardware stores or industrial suppliers. Not sure how the clutch on the older 16" models are configured but it would help if you could post a photo of the assembly?
Larry C.
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 19, 2018 16:15:23 GMT -5
They have a clutch part. My clutch doesn't work. I am going to get one and either try to fix it or get rid of the saw. It requires two people and a hacksaw to install.
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Post by lonetreestudios on Aug 19, 2018 17:57:58 GMT -5
Larry C: Thanks for the reply, yeah sounds like the same set-up on mine, will try to post a pic soon when I take the top off to clean it out.
stardiamond: yeah, the individual I spoke to didn't seem to know much about their line of products to be honest. If you have a part # to share would be much appreciated, let me know how the install goes. That sounds serious, thought I remembered things were either threaded or roll pinned together?
Thanks,
Rodney/LTS
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Post by Peruano on Aug 20, 2018 6:12:25 GMT -5
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 20, 2018 16:48:22 GMT -5
Covington is sending me a replacement clutch at no charge. I've been talking with Brian. He first offered to send a clutch for free and then when I talked to him today, he mentioned at a discount. He remembered the previous conversation and is sending it out for free.
Let me know when you try to fix it. I would rather try to fix something first before replacing. If your repair doesn't resolve the problem, Covington will probably sell you a clutch at a reduced price. I love their customer service and hate their saw. I bought the saw in 2007 and didn't sue it until 2014. I paid a lot less than what they sell for now and am tempted to sell the saw and buy something smaller with a simpler feed system.
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Post by stardiamond on Aug 26, 2018 17:39:37 GMT -5
My replacement clutch arrived. I didn't understand why I needed a hacksaw to install the new clutch. The part is the clutch and the threaded feed rod, connected together. The clutch assembly has one set screw to attach to the drive. Installation will be mainly disassembly and reassembly. No instructions. I will ask for them when I am ready to proceed. I will cut the rod to the same length as the old one when I take it out.
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Post by lonetreestudios on Sept 16, 2018 9:12:58 GMT -5
Peruano - thanks for the detail, major help in disassembling the clutch and rebuilding it with the correct parts (previous owner apparently just stuck it back together in whatever order with a few missing parts!). Rebuilt it while I had it apart, new fiber washers from Ace (had to trim them down in diameter a bit to fit), and with new oil after a clean-out seems to be cutting like new again.
Stardiamond - can say the hacksaw is probably not needed if you are willing to disassemble the clutch to install it. Basically requires putting all the components on the shaft and then sliding the outer housing back over the whole mix. Had to ponder it a bit, but worked out and seems to be working like new again.
Happy cutting!
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Post by stardiamond on Sept 16, 2018 15:53:58 GMT -5
Peruano - thanks for the detail, major help in disassembling the clutch and rebuilding it with the correct parts (previous owner apparently just stuck it back together in whatever order with a few missing parts!). Rebuilt it while I had it apart, new fiber washers from Ace (had to trim them down in diameter a bit to fit), and with new oil after a clean-out seems to be cutting like new again. Stardiamond - can say the hacksaw is probably not needed if you are willing to disassemble the clutch to install it. Basically requires putting all the components on the shaft and then sliding the outer housing back over the whole mix. Had to ponder it a bit, but worked out and seems to be working like new again. Happy cutting! Replacing the clutch is suppose to be a two person job. Can rebuilding it be done by one person? If the entire clutch assembly needs to be removed, Measuring and cutting the threaded part would be the least of my problems. |
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Post by lonetreestudios on Sept 16, 2018 16:26:39 GMT -5
Back story...
I "modified" my Covington shortly after I got it, basically cutting the cabinet about 5" up from the bottom all the way around, and riveting "hangman z-hangers" around the cut edge, providing for a means to take the top half off and make cleaning out MUCH easier when necessary. Removing the top is POSSIBLE by yourself, but much easier with 2 folks. However, turns the mucking out process to get rid of the rock snot into about a 5 minute operation as you have clear access to the tank (and can tip it up to easy cleanout).
As far as the clutch goes, I lifted the top half off, laid it on its side, and proceeded with clutch removal and rebuild.
1) Loosened the set-screw holding clutch to drive motor (far left in the sketch in Peruano link)
2) Pulled the 4 bolts holding the carriage drive motor on and removed it for ease of manipulation
3) Fully removed the set screw in step #1 (this will allow for the clutch sleeve to slide out of the way later
4) Use a dental pick or small screwdriver to slide the retainer wire (careful no to spring it) off of the slotted head set screw near the middle of the clutch sleeve
5) Loosen and remove slotted head set screw (far right in the sketch in Peruano link)
6) At that point you should be able to work the clutch sleeve loose and slide it away from the drive motor and along the threaded rod
7) This will provide access to the 3rd and final set screw in the clutch assembly (middle in the sketch in Peruano link).
8) Once that final set screw is loosened, all of the parts of the clutch should be free to move.
I was able to slide the vise carriage all the way to the right (away from drive motor) and had enough flex in the threaded rod to allow for clutch assembly removal. Fully disassembled, cleaned, replaced fiber washers and missing steel washer and reassembled opposite of above.
Hopefully that makes sense....definitely CAN be a 1 person operation and no cutting or replacing of the threaded rod required (and made half a dozen cuts this AM and working like new!)
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