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Post by stardiamond on Jun 16, 2019 20:45:51 GMT -5
I bought 3 new wheels for my 8 inch machine. It takes a couple hours to change wheels. My 80 and 220 hard and 220 soft still have life left. The equivalent Genie wheels are in better shape so I've been doing everything except the 600 and 1200 on it.
My left side wheels are frozen. I bought vice grips to see if I could break it loose but am reluctant to try. I have extra 6 inch hard wheels. I think the assembly will cost under $100 delivered. I currently use 8 wheels to make cabs. With the spinoff on the Genie so easy to use the extra wheel holder opens up a lot of possibilities. The Genie is easier on my thumb so I expect to be using it more for a while. I have a 60 grit crystalring that I barely used and can use the genie 80 to remove the 60 grit scratches and pick up speed.
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Jun 16, 2019 22:22:35 GMT -5
Have you called DP for any advice they can give you on getting the left side unfrozen?
I also have an extra right hand shaft that we use for the finer grits (8k, 14k AND 50k). I can spin off the RH shaft and spin on the other one in less than a minute. I love it.
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Post by stardiamond on Jun 16, 2019 23:29:20 GMT -5
The standard advice is to remove the right side wheels put vice grips on the shaft and put wrench on the end of the left side assembly and rotate clockwise (the way the left side is removed). I might get it off and I might wreck the genie. I use the right side for the trim saw attachment (saw probably bound and caused the left side to be overtightened) and 8,000 50,000 and the end for polishing pad or laps. I usually only use one side at a time with one tray and replacing the water and moving the tray. I use the other tray on my big machine. A genie would be fully functional with one side but giving it two sides only means adding a tray, hood and the wheel assembly. I've been using the 325 on the right side quite a bit and the 50,000 works better on some material than 50,000 paste on a pad.
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Post by stardiamond on Jun 18, 2019 16:55:56 GMT -5
I emailed someone and got no response. Johnson brothers and DP had it but I didn't want to deal with either of them for this order. I bought the kit from ronsrocks on ebay. I've bought from quite a bit in the past. The kit contains the adapter and a bunch of spacers so I can configure however I like. His cost was $6 less than DP catalog and with tax and shipping it was a little over $120.
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Post by stardiamond on Jun 22, 2019 11:00:58 GMT -5
My adapter arrived yesterday. Looking at it is more informative than the pictures. It comes with 4 standard plastic spacers and 2 double thickness heavy aluminum spacers. I had bought some of these before when I redesigned the wheel configuration on my 8 inch machine. One of the things I like about my 8 inch machine is the wheels are spaced further apart. On the Genie the 80 and 220 hard are right next to each other and the gap between the 220 hard and the soft wheel is also smaller than my 8 inch machine. With the new adapter and spacers, I can configure it for two wheels with good spacing between them. Since changing wheels on the right side is easy, I can play with different combinations and spacing.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jun 22, 2019 11:48:54 GMT -5
Sounds like you already know that you spin them the same direction they spin when using it to remove, so I won't mention it. With really stuck stuff I usually shock them off. Put a piece of hose or something soft on the right shaft and clamp a vice grip in a way that you can allow it to rest against the base to keep the shaft from spinning. Then put a wrench on the left end and while holding it onto the end firmly with one hand, give the end of the wrench a tap or 2 with a hammer to imitate an air impact wrench, usually just a tiny bit of movement will completely free it. Since it's wet in there, and the spinning of the machine keeps them tight anyway, I like to slightly oil the threads when assembling cabbibg machines and saws, prevents a lot of headaches later,
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Post by Rockindad on Jun 22, 2019 12:06:53 GMT -5
Sounds like you already know that you spin them the same direction they spin when using it to remove, so I won't mention it. With really stuck stuff I usually shock them off. Put a piece of hose or something soft on the right shaft and clamp a vice grip in a way that you can allow it to rest against the base to keep the shaft from spinning. Then put a wrench on the left end and while holding it onto the end firmly with one hand, give the end of the wrench a tap or 2 with a hammer to imitate an air impact wrench, usually just a tiny bit of movement will completely free it. Since it's wet in there, and the spinning of the machine keeps them tight anyway, I like to slightly oil the threads when assembling cabbibg machines and saws, prevents a lot of headaches later,We use any number of never seize products in industry depending on the application. Is there a reason why it couldn't be used on a cabbing machine as some insurance? Al
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Post by Rockoonz on Jun 22, 2019 13:56:24 GMT -5
Sounds like you already know that you spin them the same direction they spin when using it to remove, so I won't mention it. With really stuck stuff I usually shock them off. Put a piece of hose or something soft on the right shaft and clamp a vice grip in a way that you can allow it to rest against the base to keep the shaft from spinning. Then put a wrench on the left end and while holding it onto the end firmly with one hand, give the end of the wrench a tap or 2 with a hammer to imitate an air impact wrench, usually just a tiny bit of movement will completely free it. Since it's wet in there, and the spinning of the machine keeps them tight anyway, I like to slightly oil the threads when assembling cabbibg machines and saws, prevents a lot of headaches later,We use any number of never seize products in industry depending on the application. Is there a reason why it couldn't be used on a cabbing machine as some insurance? Al I use the copper based never sieze all the time, but very lightly as it likes to travel.
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Post by Rockindad on Jun 22, 2019 14:27:07 GMT -5
We use any number of never seize products in industry depending on the application. Is there a reason why it couldn't be used on a cabbing machine as some insurance? Al I use the copper based never sieze all the time, but very lightly as it likes to travel. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Have to use a light touch with anything moving. But boy will you be glad you used something when the time comes. Anyone who has had to break out a torch will attest to that. Al
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Post by stardiamond on Jun 29, 2019 12:25:02 GMT -5
I tried to put the crystalring 60 grit wheel on and it was too tight for the shaft and I scratched the shaft. I ordered some stone grinding bits and some emory cloth from Amazon. I sanded the hole and the shaft and then the 175 grit crystalring was too tight so I sanded it. I set up the shaft for two wheels with a larger space between them. I can reconfigure to 3 wheels later.
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