JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 751
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Post by JR8675309 on Jun 24, 2021 22:50:02 GMT -5
Does anyone know how to replace the center post On a UV-10? Edit Update: I have shimmed it to avoid the spots where the threads are corroded. I'm also I'm pretty sure that I can buy threaded 1/4" 20 rod and cut to size. Looking forward to your input.
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Post by manofglass on Jun 25, 2021 10:38:22 GMT -5
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Post by Rockindad on Jun 25, 2021 11:07:07 GMT -5
Does anyone know how to replace the center post On a UV-10? Edit Update: I have shimmed it to avoid the spots where the threads are corroded. I'm also I'm pretty sure that I can buy threaded 1/4" 20 rod and cut to size. Looking forward to your input. When the time comes you need to remove the motor to gain access to the nut that is on the underside of the bowl platform. Sounds like you have figured out the shimming trick. Washers will work both on the inside and outside of the bowl. Yes, it is 1/4-20 all-thread. I got some 6' lengths from work, probably a lifetime supply.
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JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 751
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Post by JR8675309 on Jun 25, 2021 12:28:47 GMT -5
I've been oiling it. Over time I think this just happens.
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Post by manofglass on Jun 25, 2021 12:37:00 GMT -5
I haven’t had one go bad yet
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Jun 25, 2021 12:54:04 GMT -5
Does anyone know how to replace the center post On a UV-10? Edit Update: I have shimmed it to avoid the spots where the threads are corroded. I'm also I'm pretty sure that I can buy threaded 1/4" 20 rod and cut to size. Looking forward to your input. When the time comes you need to remove the motor to gain access to the nut that is on the underside of the bowl platform. Sounds like you have figured out the shimming trick. Washers will work both on the inside and outside of the bowl. Yes, it is 1/4-20 all-thread. I got some 6' lengths from work, probably a lifetime supply. I never realized the threaded shaft on a UV-10 cannot be removed/replaced without accessing the motor..........since I don't own one, but own 2 Lyman Turbo vibes, 1 Harbor Freight (modified) comparable in size and design to the UV-10 and Raytech TV-5.........all of those threaded shafts un-screw from the base plate, no need to access the motor...........So, I e-mailed Thumlers to find out.....: "Good morning.... Helping a friend with replacing the bowl shaft on the UV-10. I don't own one and without starting to take his apart, since he has stripped the shaft threads, will it be necessary to remove the base plate and access the motor in order to remove the shaft.......? I've web searched info on this, hard to find any details other than motor replacement, which do not discuss the shaft installation. I own two Turbo vibe tumblers made by Lyman, a Harbor Freight modified (comparable in size to the UV-10), and a TV-5 Raytech.......Never invested in a Thumler, since they are driven pretty hard 8 months at a time 24/7, replacement/parts cost for those are less expensive and easier to find ......the shafts on those un-screw from the base plate, no need to access the motor. So, before I get over my head, thought I'd contact you guys "get it from the horses mouth" first...! Any help with this issue is appreciated, Thanks, Joe"UV-10 threaded bowl shaft Fri, Jun 25 2021 10:29 AMFrom:jdinoii@roadrunner.com To: t-tumbler@thumlerstumbler.com Priority:NormalWe'll see what they have to say...........Since I don't own and only one of my rock buddies owns one (the one I'm looking at on my bench)......and my web searches have come up with mostly motor replacement, which, lol, did not discuss rod/post replacement, lol...........or I'll just tear into this one..... anyway........to be continued....!
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victor1941
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2011
Posts: 1,978
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Post by victor1941 on Jun 25, 2021 13:59:51 GMT -5
I have the same problem with not rust but grit between the shaft and nut that is removing the thread due to heavy use/abrasion. I have a new method that I am going to use on my next repair that might work and does not require removing the shaft but cuts the shaft and uses a connector nut to attach a new section above with locktite sealent used on the repair. I intend to cut the original bolt low enough to use a one and one-half connector nut with thread sealant and stainless steel section above to get the original height on my UV-18. Lowe's and Home Depot carry the threaded shaft rods in the store in Austin, Tx.
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Post by Rockindad on Jun 25, 2021 14:09:40 GMT -5
When the time comes you need to remove the motor to gain access to the nut that is on the underside of the bowl platform. Sounds like you have figured out the shimming trick. Washers will work both on the inside and outside of the bowl. Yes, it is 1/4-20 all-thread. I got some 6' lengths from work, probably a lifetime supply. I never realized the threaded shaft on a UV-10 cannot be removed/replaced without accessing the motor..........since I don't own one, but own 2 Lyman Turbo vibes, 1 Harbor Freight (modified) comparable in size and design to the UV-10 and Raytech TV-5.........all of those threaded shafts un-screw from the base plate, no need to access the motor...........So, I e-mailed Thumlers to find out.....: "Good morning.... Helping a friend with replacing the bowl shaft on the UV-10. I don't own one and without starting to take his apart, since he has stripped the shaft threads, will it be necessary to remove the base plate and access the motor in order to remove the shaft.......? I've web searched info on this, hard to find any details other than motor replacement, which do not discuss the shaft installation. I own two Turbo vibe tumblers made by Lyman, a Harbor Freight modified (comparable in size to the UV-10), and a TV-5 Raytech.......Never invested in a Thumler, since they are driven pretty hard 8 months at a time 24/7, replacement/parts cost for those are less expensive and easier to find ......the shafts on those un-screw from the base plate, no need to access the motor. So, before I get over my head, thought I'd contact you guys "get it from the horses mouth" first...! Any help with this issue is appreciated, Thanks, Joe"UV-10 threaded bowl shaft Fri, Jun 25 2021 10:29 AMFrom:jdinoii@roadrunner.com To: t-tumbler@thumlerstumbler.com Priority:NormalWe'll see what they have to say...........Since I don't own and only one of my rock buddies owns one (the one I'm looking at on my bench)......and my web searches have come up with mostly motor replacement, which, lol, did not discuss rod/post replacement, lol...........or I'll just tear into this one..... anyway........to be continued....! We are still on the original rod so we have not replaced yet, but we are using some washers to do the shim trick. To be honest I will probably cut the shaft on top of the platform leaving 1-2 inches and put a rod coupling on there to make future changeouts a breeze. www.mcmaster.com/rod-couplings/low-strength-steel-coupling-nuts-9/
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Post by Rockindad on Jun 25, 2021 14:13:26 GMT -5
Sorry victor1941, didn't see your post until after I posted my reply. Great minds think alike!
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Jun 25, 2021 14:58:37 GMT -5
I never realized the threaded shaft on a UV-10 cannot be removed/replaced without accessing the motor..........since I don't own one, but own 2 Lyman Turbo vibes, 1 Harbor Freight (modified) comparable in size and design to the UV-10 and Raytech TV-5.........all of those threaded shafts un-screw from the base plate, no need to access the motor...........So, I e-mailed Thumlers to find out.....: "Good morning.... Helping a friend with replacing the bowl shaft on the UV-10. I don't own one and without starting to take his apart, since he has stripped the shaft threads, will it be necessary to remove the base plate and access the motor in order to remove the shaft.......? I've web searched info on this, hard to find any details other than motor replacement, which do not discuss the shaft installation. I own two Turbo vibe tumblers made by Lyman, a Harbor Freight modified (comparable in size to the UV-10), and a TV-5 Raytech.......Never invested in a Thumler, since they are driven pretty hard 8 months at a time 24/7, replacement/parts cost for those are less expensive and easier to find ......the shafts on those un-screw from the base plate, no need to access the motor. So, before I get over my head, thought I'd contact you guys "get it from the horses mouth" first...! Any help with this issue is appreciated, Thanks, Joe"UV-10 threaded bowl shaft Fri, Jun 25 2021 10:29 AMFrom:jdinoii@roadrunner.com To: t-tumbler@thumlerstumbler.com Priority:NormalWe'll see what they have to say...........Since I don't own and only one of my rock buddies owns one (the one I'm looking at on my bench)......and my web searches have come up with mostly motor replacement, which, lol, did not discuss rod/post replacement, lol...........or I'll just tear into this one..... anyway........to be continued....! We are still on the original rod so we have not replaced yet, but we are using some washers to do the shim trick. To be honest I will probably cut the shaft on top of the platform leaving 1-2 inches and put a rod coupling on there to make future changeouts a breeze. www.mcmaster.com/rod-couplings/low-strength-steel-coupling-nuts-9/Well, got an e-mail reply.....That was real quick.....: Joe, Depending on if the U-V10 is the standard or industrial. It is necessary to remove the foam base pad and the motor to access the centerpost. You will either have 4 or 8 bolts to remove depending on the model he has. We are available to help via the phone if necessary 1-800-225-1017 Thank You, Tru Square Metal ProductsWent ahead and made a phone call........Talked to a real knowledgeable guy named Garris...... Seems there are two types of UV-10's Industrial and Standard, outside of the bowl stripe and material thickness that comes with one or the other, there is another way to tell which one you have. Bolt/screw patterns under the base pad are different 4 or 8, and...... Industrial = red/orange motor Standard = either blue or gray/black motor For either, the motor must be exposed and motor brackets must be removed. I'm working on an orange/red motor......the bowl has no stripe but it's thick material and my rock buddy does not remember what he bought 7yrs ago and has replaced bowls a few times.....lol So, now that I've been informed "twice"........I should have this completed in 30min or so........then test run. Thanks rockindad for the heads up. Your timing could have not been better.......!
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Post by Rockindad on Jun 25, 2021 17:54:41 GMT -5
Always nice to hear of a positive customer service experience pizzano.
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Jun 25, 2021 18:40:36 GMT -5
Having now repaired my buddies UV-10, and tightened every thing up (just finished), humming along just fine......... bowl shaft replacement on that is so much more cumbersome than the Raytech or Lyman.....the shaft alignment must be perfect and don't over tighten any of the screws/bolts, lock washers.....was warned about that by the tech I spoke with, he was spot on.....had to back off a little on a few (motor mounts) and bottom shaft nylon thread bolt......too tight makes for an unusual vibe sound and action........my first try........second try success....!
Yep.......Tru Square Metal Products should be commended........see why, now, they can't keep their products in stock.........with customer service like that, their demand must be great, not only because they deliver on promise, but manufacture and serve quality.....!
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Jun 25, 2021 18:54:36 GMT -5
I have the same problem with not rust but grit between the shaft and nut that is removing the thread due to heavy use/abrasion. I have a new method that I am going to use on my next repair that might work and does not require removing the shaft but cuts the shaft and uses a connector nut to attach a new section above with locktite sealent used on the repair. I intend to cut the original bolt low enough to use a one and one-half connector nut with thread sealant and stainless steel section above for get the original height on my UV-18. Lowe's and Home Depot carry the threaded shaft rods in the store in Austin, Tx. I'd be interested knowing how well that works............since that was not a recommended solution by the manufacture. Seems the shaft must be perfectly aligned and bolted down under in a particular fashion.....something to do with harmonic balance. Seems adding a collar or extension to the shaft stub you have left (after cutting), could disrupt that sensitivity......just over tightening the lower bolt (as I did the first attempt), made a dramatic difference.......Just a thought.
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victor1941
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2011
Posts: 1,978
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Post by victor1941 on Jun 25, 2021 21:50:59 GMT -5
Pizzano, when it becomes necessary I will indicate how the cut and extend with a connector nut for the new top shaft works. I already run the machine with a one-half inch pad between the bowl and base plate and get good results. I am sure the harmonics does change because when the pad is absent the turn-over rate is different.
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JR8675309
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2019
Posts: 751
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Post by JR8675309 on Oct 4, 2022 9:02:07 GMT -5
victor1941 how is your Thumler UV-10 running? My reports: I discovered this year that the wing nut was being worn and also contributing to the need to shim. With both the center post and center of wing nut wearing, the proper contact couldn't be made. Switching to a new wing nut fixed the issue at that time. A few months later I had to complete a tear down of the unit due to motor failure; new: post, motor mounts, motor, base pad and off we went. So far it's like a new tumbler. I did had to readjust the counterweight when I wasn't getting the movement I felt was normal. The motor replacement was off the shelf with similar spec vs the Thumler version. The fan motor is on the opposite end (bottom when mounted) and heat dissipates better as it's not underneath the lip of the platform. Hope this is helpful info.
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jimmie
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2021
Posts: 233
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Post by jimmie on Oct 4, 2022 10:18:41 GMT -5
Just replaced my center shaft last week. Pretty easy fix. Picked up the shaft at the hardware store, plus new wing nuts. I didn’t detach the motor. Took the screws out of the springs, gave access to everything. The shaft is held on with a nylon lock nut. Put two bolts on the shaft, tighten them together. You then use them to back the nylon locking nut off. There’s enough room between the motor and plate to remove. It took me 15mins, that included going to hardware store.not complicated.
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jimmie
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2021
Posts: 233
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Post by jimmie on Oct 4, 2022 10:31:32 GMT -5
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